Algae identification for eradication

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Newly added hygrophyla lancea chai have completely melted after leaves have turned white...

That is <"classical iron (Fe) deficiency">. It is only the <"non-mobile elements"> that cause issues in the new leaves.

cheers Darrel

 

[mickfzu]

Hi all,

That is <"classical iron (Fe) deficiency">. It is only the <"non-mobile elements"> that cause issues in the new leaves.

cheers Darrel

Hi Darrel!
So it could lead to a nutrients level deficiency in some way? I read a few threads on the forum so nutrients in excess couldn't necessary lead to algaes. So i can progressively increase the dosing of my AIO fertilizer adding some Salvinia as indicator and efficient nutrients absorbers as back up.

Mickaël

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

So it could lead to a nutrients level deficiency in some way?

It isn't really to do with the interaction between nutrients, it is because of the <"assembly line"> nature of <"nutrients in plant growth">.

Plants <"can't store the non-mobile nutrients">, so as soon as one becomes severely deficient plant growth stops. Once it it becomes the lacking non-mobile <"becomes available again"> growth restarts.

cheers Darrel

 

[Zeus.]

I didn't think full EI would be a good choice for my tank since I have already some trouble with algae.

Dosing a full EI dose and a weekly 50% WC will ensure there is not fert shortage and the weekly WC will reset the tank weekly.
Ferts in abundance does not cause algae, algae with thrive when ferts are in the parts per billion. Control the light, ferts in abundance, good flow, high plant biomass and good regular maintenance are the first step to getting the plants to outcompete the algae.
Focus on optimum plant grow and not the algae

 

[mickfzu]

Hi all,

It isn't really to do with the interaction between nutrients, it is because of the <"assembly line"> nature of <"nutrients in plant growth">.

Plants <"can't store the non-mobile nutrients">, so as soon as one becomes severely deficient plant growth stops. Once it it becomes the lacking non-mobile <"becomes available again"> growth restarts.

cheers Darrel

Thanks for these informations! I increase a little bit the APT complete daily dosing.
By the way, I will receive some ramshorn snails this week to help me with algae.

Dosing a full EI dose and a weekly 50% WC will ensure there is not fert shortage and the weekly WC will reset the tank weekly.
Ferts in abundance does not cause algae, algae with thrive when ferts are in the parts per billion. Control the light, ferts in abundance, good flow, high plant biomass and good regular maintenance are the first step to getting the plants to outcompete the algae.
Focus on optimum plant grow and not the algae

With the IFC you choose to EI dose 6 days and the 7 day you reset with WC?
Just received all the powder this week end for the diy fert so I could go for EI soon

The hygrophila lancea chai didn't support really well the tank so I will see for the couple of plant that resist...
Same thing for the hygrophila aromatica mini. Some plants resist.

I completely remove the rotala macrandra pearl because of full of algae and BBA. Growth was completely stunted.
I also discard the bottom of few plants full of algae and replant the healthy top.

Mick

 

[Zeus.]

With the IFC you choose to EI dose 6 days and the 7 day you reset with WC?

Yes/No, most folk use

• Macros day 1( straight after WC), day 3 and day 5
• Micros day 2,4 and 6

rest the day before WC
or

• Macros day 1( straight after WC), day 3 and day 5
• Micros day 2 and 4

Rest two days before WC

There are many options

 

[mickfzu]

Thank you Zeus for these informations.

Just tried IFC Calculator for the Macro elements, hereunder the results:
1) ADA 60P + jbl e 702 canister which gives me 66L approximatively. Maybe I have to substract the soil? (10L approximatively)...

2)Here, I choose the APT E formula because of when I choose EI Full I see dKH=5.
Since I have a technical soil which buffer my KH to 0 I think I don't want to have that?!
That's why I choose APT E (5ml/3x week). But I notice that it is not the same concentration as EI full so I am a little confused about it.

3) I have :

• Potassium Nitrate KNO3 (N)
• Monopotassium Phosphate KH2PO4 (P)
• Potassium Sulfate K2SO4 (K)
• Magnesium Sulfate MgSO4 7H2O (Mg)

So for the macro I have this result. Is it correct?

For the Micro, I purchase this:

What should I choose on the IFC Calc? I have strictly no idea.

Thank you guys.

Mick.

 

[tigertim]

The best thing you could do is the old fashoined method of having 2/3 rds of the tank covered with floating plants, a method that seems to be mostly forgetton about in fighting algae

Is your water soft ? i had a massive problem with Cyanobacteria, i resorted to using some Blue Green Slime remover, worked perfectly with no problems since
Amazon product ASIN B000QSK31M
I had read it suggested low Nitrates can be a reason for Cyanobacteria so since then i've always added some tap water (high Nitrate ) to my rainwater during water changes to slightly up my nitrate level

As others have suggested i'd reduce lighting by 30 to 60 mins

Also against the grain on here i'd stick with a propiety brand of fertiliser like Seachem Flourish and Trace and dose on the lean side just once a week

Good luck

 

[mickfzu]

The best thing you could do is the old fashoined method of having 2/3 rds of the tank covered with floating plants, a method that seems to be mostly forgetton about in fighting algae

Is your water soft ? i had a massive problem with Cyanobacteria, i resorted to using some Blue Green Slime remover, worked perfectly with no problems since
Amazon product ASIN B000QSK31M
I had read it suggested low Nitrates can be a reason for Cyanobacteria so since then i've always added some tap water (high Nitrate ) to my rainwater during water changes to slightly up my nitrate level

As others have suggested i'd reduce lighting by 30 to 60 mins

Also against the grain on here i'd stick with a propiety brand of fertiliser like Seachem Flourish and Trace and dose on the lean side just once a week

Good luck

Hi Tiger Tim,

I tried in the past Blue exit thinking it was Cyano but it doesn't change anything so I think it's rather a mix of GDA, GSA, Fuzzy Algae.... I notice also some BBA.
Actually there is some plants that are growing pretty well now such as Rotala Macrandra (Variegated, Type 4). Newly added limnophila sp Belem is growing well to. But there is always some algae on old leaves.
I think I have to increase again the plant mass. I added some salvinia but probably not enough. Not easy with a surface skimmer :/
At the moment, I increase a little bit the daily amount of ferts (before trying EI when the plant mass will be increased). I don't think leaning dosage is a good idea in my situation, I already underdose the APT complete a few week without changing anything with algeas :/
I also increase a little bit the amount of CO2 (PH drop from 6.8 to 5.5). Not sure if my water flow is really good particularly at the bottom front of the tank so...

Thank you

Mickaël

 

[mickfzu]

Hello guys,

Some update since the last time I posted.
Tank looks better today. I succeed to control the algae growth. Some plants are recovering and now I think I have to be patient and continue the maintenance.
The bottom of the Cabomba furcata is clean of algae. MyrioPhyllum Mattrogrossense golden start to grow again. Only the bottom of the Pantanal is impacted with algae but I will discard it later.
I added some Ramshorn snail and King Koopa, and also an otocinclus crew which work a lot.
I also increase the amount of APT complete ferts and I can see improvment.
I probably will switch to EI regime this week since I think plants were starved.
I also increase % by % the amount of light since I reduce it a lot to control algae.
Some photos of the evolution:

Mick