• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Algae Issue - New Setup

Ollybrooks1

Seedling
Joined
13 Mar 2021
Messages
3
Location
Reading
Hi everyone,

Would really appreciate anyone's feedback or knowledge here!

I set up the tank 4/5 weeks ago.

  • Tank: 90l Opti White
  • Light: Chihiros WRGB II running 50%
  • Photoperiod: 6 hours
  • Filter: Fluval 306 with Seachem Matrix, and various sponges and filter floss
  • Substrate: ADA Powersand S, Tropica soil, Tropica soil powder
  • CO2: External reactor 4-5 BPS (on 3hours before lights, off with them)
  • Ferts: Tropica Specialized Nutrition 6ml per day (auto dosed throughout lighting period)
  • Plant list: Micrantheum Monte Carlo, Eleocaris Acicularis, Rotala Hr'a, Rotala Bossii, Rotala Indica Bonsai, Staurogyne Repens, Crytocoryne Green, Microsorum Trident, Anubias Mini, Anubias Bonsai, Anubias Pangolino, Bucephalandra Green, Cryptocoryne Parva, Pogostomen Helferi
  • Inhabitants: 6 Celestial Pearl Danio, 5 Otocinculus, 5 Pygmy Corydoras, 8 Amano, 10 CRS
  • Water Changes: Daily for the first week, every other day for for 2nd and 3rd weeks (diatoms appeared so kept on top) I was planning on going to once a week by 3rd week however hair algae started to appear.

Originally I was running the lights at full but within last 2 weeks dropped first to 70% then to 50% as I was pumping in a lot more CO2 in order to have the drop checker read 30ppm (nearly a constant stream of bubbles)

I am of the understanding this algae is potentially a lack of nutrients but I am already dosing more than 4 times the weekly amount recommended

Parameter:
  • Nitrates: 25ppm
  • Nitrites: 0ppm
  • Phosphates: 0.25ppm
  • GH: 5
  • KH: 1
  • PH: 6.5
  • Temp: 23°C
I am using RO water and remineralizing with Seachem Equilibrium.

Any help would be greatly appreciated something is out of balance and I am running out of ideas! I did initially have some plants melt and this could have led to an ammonia spike but this was way back in the first week or so.

I know in the pics the drop checker is yellow, I moved the regulator when doing a water change accidentally, hence the air stone, not normally there. Also these are taken day of maintenance hair algae was far worse I just did my best with a turkey baster and a toothbrush

Ps there is also some BBA appearing now.........
20210313_215349.jpg
20210313_215429.jpg
20210313_215436.jpg
20210313_215448.jpg
20210313_215455.jpg
 
Last edited:
Did you find a solution to this? My tank is newer (almost 3 weeks) and I'm starting to see algae appearing like yours. I also have similar parameters to you as it looks like you have been doing this the "Green Aqua" way. I am agitating the algae and trying to remove from the leaves with my fingers where I can, which has very short-lived success.

I'm also waiting for my algae eaters to arrive, which I hope will help keep it at bay. Are your Amano and Otocinculus helping?

I did read that overdosing Flourish Excel could help, but I don't know how safe that is for the livestock, so wouldn't advise as I am so new to this.

Also, brilliant Aquascape by the way!
 
Ferts: Tropica Specialized Nutrition 6ml per day (auto dosed throughout lighting period)

About right IMO for TSN for new tank

  • Light: Chihiros WRGB II running 50%
  • Photoperiod: 6 hours

:thumbup: maybe 40% for few weeks

Filter: Fluval 306 with Seachem Matrix, and various sponges and filter floss

Remove the filter floss as ot clogs up very quick and reduces filter output, which in turn reduces Flow in tank, Flow is 'King' in the high tech tank as it tranprts the CO2 and other nutrients around and pushes the CO2 to all parts of the tank.
Alos if filter is rammed with Seachem Matrix I would reduce it by 50% as it also reduces flow.

Increasing the height of your lily pipe outlet will also create more flow and surface agitation which will help, but may need to increase the BPS of the CO2 to compensate for the increase loss of CO2. Think 'CO2 is free' only then you will make the most of it.

kH is a tad low and would advise 2kH, adding some Potassium Bicarbonate will resolve this cheapy, level teaspoon per 100L adds approx 1kH

DC is a nice colour change IMO, just be careful when adding inmates/livestock, have you done a pH profile?
 
Did you find a solution to this? My tank is newer (almost 3 weeks) and I'm starting to see algae appearing like yours. I also have similar parameters to you as it looks like you have been doing this the "Green Aqua" way. I am agitating the algae and trying to remove from the leaves with my fingers where I can, which has very short-lived success.
Not a solution yet however I will try some of Zeus' tips, and yes very much the green aqua way. The growth of algae has slowed but still present!
I'm also waiting for my algae eaters to arrive, which I hope will help keep it at bay. Are your Amano and Otocinculus helping?
Yes they do help 100 percent, not sure I put there is 4 clithon snails as well
I did read that overdosing Flourish Excel could help, but I don't know how safe that is for the livestock, so wouldn't advise as I am so new to this.
I have been dosing easycarbo (similar product for the BBA still there at the moment, but obviously finding the cause is more important!
Also, brilliant Aquascape by the way!
And thank you!!!!
 
Thanks for the heads up on the TSN, was one thing I kept toying with whether I was on the right lines!
Remove the filter floss as ot clogs up very quick and reduces filter output, which in turn reduces Flow in tank, Flow is 'King' in the high tech tank as it tranprts the CO2 and other nutrients around and pushes the CO2 to all parts of the tank.
Alos if filter is rammed with Seachem Matrix I would reduce it by 50% as it also reduces flow.
This is very interesting, I will have a play with this. The external reactor also takes out some of the flow, so maybe double kill with packed out matrix, floss and the reactor!
kH is a tad low and would advise 2kH, adding some Potassium Bicarbonate will resolve this cheapy, level teaspoon per 100L adds approx 1kH

DC is a nice colour change IMO, just be careful when adding inmates/livestock, have you done a pH profile?
By pH profile you mean like a diary of various pH throughout the day?

I do regularly check my pH but not regimented, however I had a super low reading just a few days ago it was at 6.0 or possibly lower as the liquid test only goes down to 6.0. Normally sits around 6.4/6.5 towards the end of the lighting period. Water changed as a precaution, but again unsure why it swung so low but as you said the increase in kH should rectify that

Thanks for your help!
 
Back
Top