Any one tried HINTERFELD BSFH PROGRAMABLE SMART CONTROLLER FOR LED/FAN/DC PUMP?

Discussion in 'Hinterfeld' started by JackH, 6 May 2018.

  1. JackH

    JackH Member

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  2. Natasha

    Natasha Member

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    I just ordered two, also curious.
     
  3. Zeus.

    Zeus. Member

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    Works up to 36Volts and 100Watts impressive. I have some COB LED lights that work in that range which a timer like that would come in handy for.
    Good price as well seeing it's a timer also.
     
  4. gregl

    gregl Member

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    Seems to be great value.

    How would this compare to a TC420?
     
  5. Zeus.

    Zeus. Member

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    Well a TC420 can only handle 4amps per channel, plus can only handle voltages up to 24volts.
    So that's 48watts on a 12volt PSU and 96watts on a 24volt PSU.
    Most aquarium LEDs are 12volts (I think) so being able to a potential 8.3amps on a 12volt PSU could be handly OFC.
    However what it can actualy handle on the different voltages may be different than the ''sales' specs advertised OFC.
    The TC420 can power up to 5 lights with a 20amp PSU at 4amps per channel. I use a 10amp PSU to power two lights though one TC420.
    Not sure how many times settings you can have on the TC420 but it's more than 8, but 8 is plenty IMO.
    The TC420 you program via PC via USB which has a primative app which can be a bit of a pain at times but fully functional and easy to change if like my son and on one of my tanks the PC is close to the tank.
    Sounds like the hinderfeld one is programmed direct.
     
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  6. Kalum

    Kalum Member

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    I've ordered one a couple of days ago as well, at the price it's worth a shot

    I've current got a TC421 (which I would recommend to anyone over the 420 as the app is very simple and easy to use and once set up, as long as you have a good WiFi signal then it works perfect)

    Will see how this works out
     
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  7. zozo

    zozo Member

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    In technical sense it's the same.. :) It needs a constant voltage PSU and a led unit that runs on the constant voltage supplied.
    This means it puts out the same voltage you put in.. TC420/1 does the same.. Though the TC only goes up to 24 volt and this Hinterfelt one goes up to 36 volt.
    The other difference is the TC is a multichannel controller limited to 4 amp per channel.

    And the Hinterfeld BFSH is a 1 channel up to 36 volt x 100 watt..

    What you want to know from your LED you like to drive is: Does it run on Constant Voltage or Constant Current. This controler is not for Constant Current leds. Even if the LED says 36 volt, but if it need constant current next to that, say 350mA, you'll burn the crap out of it. Because you can't supply constant voltage to such a led. :)
     
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  8. rebel

    rebel Member

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    Hey @zozo, thanks for the good info. Most led on the market seems to run on constant current though?
     
  9. willsy

    willsy Member

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    Hi Zozo,

    I plan to use one of these with my Twinstar 900s.

    Can I ask if there is any way to tell if it's running on constant voltage?

    Cheers

    Will
     
  10. zozo

    zozo Member

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    Actualy all are and there for need a sense resistor to limit the current flow through. Most DIY units have this specified by the vendor in DC Voltage and mA somewhere between 5 and 65 volt and 200mA and 1000mA constant current.. If the unit is specified with DC voltage and Wattage are constant voltage and have a factory build in sense resistor. this you can see for example on the regular 12/24 volt led strips, the strip is a PCB with sets of 3 leds in serie with a resistor in the circuit. Making it suitable for DC 12 constant voltage. But the single little ledchip on it is absolutely constant current.

    Circkled in red is the sense resistor. providing constant current.
    CCCV.JPG

    And the problem is from a regular power supply (constant voltage) the current isn't constant. for example the regular 12 volt power supp has 1000mA current at full power.
    Than you still can connect 3 x 4 volt led in serie to get the 12 volt, but if the led is 250mA than you are at 3 x 250 is 750mA. Than it could very well be that if you run them at 50% capacity 6 volt they can burn for ages. But if you ramp up the voltage the current rises with it. So at full power 12 vlot with 1050mA suplied they get 300mA to much flow through get to hot and burn out. The sense resistor keeps the current at 750Ma regardles the PSU 1050mA current output than it can be run on every PSU from 1 to 12 volt.

    Only if you have a driver that supplies the correct constant current you can skip the sense resitor next to the led. Simply stated if the led specs says 40 volt - 750mA you need a 750mA driver and a 40 volt power supply. Connect the driver in between and you are good to go, if you like to dim you need a dimmable driver.

    And this still isn't the complete story, it's a lot to take in and a lot to explain.. :)

    I have no idea inever seen such a light, best is to ask the vendor to be absolutely sure.. Things to look at is the power supply to get some sort of an idea what it might be.
    If the PSU in this case the driver (Both can look physicaly the same) states it has a constant current output as said specified as mA. Than it likely is a constant current led driver and a constant current unit. If the PSU is speciefied with Voltage X Amp or Wattage it likely is a constant voltage PSU. Than still the driver can be build in the light unit. That i do not know and you cant see without opening the device. For example we have those MR16 lamp base dimmable 1-12 volt COB led spots running on any 12 volt PSU.. But the COB led in it is 350mA and if you screw the base open it contains this 10x8mm mini driver.
    [​IMG]

    :)
     
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  11. rebel

    rebel Member

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    Superb info @zozo. Really appreciate it.

    Do you have any suggestions on links or courses to learn more about the practical aspects of choosing the resistors etc. I have been reading up on shunt resistors.

    I am considering designing a light with 3W leds. I made a false start a few years ago and managed to blow the drivers that I chose. Recently I realised that I can connect 4 of the leds in series and run them directly with a 12V power brick and even use an inline dimmer. I have run it for a week without any heat build up etc. I connected two of these in parallel and it still qorks but slightly dimmer I think.

    Any links that you think will help are much appreciated. I am not in a hurry so happy to learn slowly.
     
  12. zozo

    zozo Member

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    Thanks Rebel.. :) But i'm far from the electronics specialist.. I'm just a a diy hobbyist that also tries to learn on the fly on a need to know basis for the idea i have in my head.
    When it comes to playing with leds i rather like to use the constant voltage ones, they get better every day and are less mind boggling stuff, easier to install and drive. So i just skipped on the idea of using HP Leds, i know the basics but never dove into the details, for now. It actualy doesn't need to be build that complicated, the constant voltage units available perform good enough for what i plan to run on it.

    Sorry i actualy do not have any links on driving constant current leds stored in my bookmarks, because i wasn't planning to use them anyway. As said it is a lot to take in and you need to be equiped with some special electronic devices to realy know what you are doing. There are some sites explaining all the formulas and or components needed as you will sure fiind Youtube tutorials on it.

    But @mow said might know the places that can guid you in the correct direction. He lately builded a nice HP setup and he seems to know that stuff pretty well.
    https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/led-diy.49569/page-2#post-511721
     
  13. Andrew Butler

    Andrew Butler Member

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    Anyone any idea what size the connectors are on the Chihiros lights?
     
  14. Zeus.

    Zeus. Member

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    Yes, but not off top of my head Andy :lol:

    I,m sure Zozo will post the size soon. Got mine off eBay
     
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  15. Kalum

    Kalum Member

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    If you mean the plug connectors then they're 5.5/2.1mm
     
  16. Andrew Butler

    Andrew Butler Member

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    Cheers Kalum, thinking about trying one out on my Twinstar but now need to try and remember which size is which from the S is and E.
    Looks a bit more user friendly than the TC420/421 and I could run the 900S without any mods.
    Haven't you got the Twinstar S; and am I right remembering you found out the S and E had different size connectors the hard way?
    I don't suppose you remember which is which?
    Cheers
    Andy
     
  17. willsy

    willsy Member

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    Hi Andy.

    I know that they are different sizes as Aquarium Gardens sell a manual dimmer version for the E and another for the S. Not sure what the size is though!

    Are you worried about trying this out considering the 'constant current' or 'constant voltage' possibilities for the Twinstar?

    As Zozo says, it can burn out the light if it's wrong...

    I've not got around to modding a TC421 (even after your fantastic instructions you supplied), so would like to try this out on my Twinstar 900S too... Its the easier option when I have zero spare time!

    Cheers

    Will.
     
    Last edited: 8 May 2018
  18. Andrew Butler

    Andrew Butler Member

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    No, not at all; the Hinterfield controller I'm sure works in quite a similar way to which the dimmer sold by Aquarium Gardens does but just programmable.

    I don't think it was me who gave you the instructions, I think it may have been @David Hewitt - He's put the sizes down as 2.5/5mm on the thread.
    https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/tc420-421.50781/page-2
     
  19. willsy

    willsy Member

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    Ah yes, thanks Andy. Indeed it was David... Its been Monday X10 today after the bank holiday weekend.
     
  20. Kalum

    Kalum Member

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    The 2 that I know for fact because I have them are:

    Twinstar 600s = 5.5/2.5mm
    Chihiros A451 plus = 5.5/5.1mm

    And I think on the previous TC420 thread that the twinstar 600e was 5.5/2.1mm but I'd check that thread to confirm first
     
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