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Anyone heard of Legend aquarium products?

jacopo16

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16 Jul 2022
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Use a pipette to spot-dose on the affected area, for best results, drain the tank, and drip dose on the affected area. Wait a few minutes before refilling the tank
Do Not Overdose.
I'm assuming this is yet another glutaraldehyde product?
Anyway in answer to your question, no, I've not heard of this brand before. I used to use liquid ferts when first starting up, but I now stick with dry ferts. Much cheaper.
 
I'm assuming this is yet another glutaraldehyde product?
Anyway in answer to your question, no, I've not heard of this brand before. I used to use liquid ferts when first starting up, but I now stick with dry ferts. Much cheaper.
thank you! I'm just trying to find something for BBA I did try everything without chemicals (water changes, adjusting Co2, lighting, removing BBA) but some are still there..
Do you also use a dry plant fert?
 
thank you! I'm just trying to find something for BBA I did try everything without chemicals (water changes, adjusting Co2, lighting, removing BBA) but some are still there..
We don't really know the exact causes of BBA, but there are some things that generally seem to help get rid of it. I've induced BBA in my tanks many times, and I have noticed that CO2 fluctuations specifically will often cause outbreaks for me.

I'd advise the following: perform a CO2 profile by taking a pH reading of your tank every hour from co2 on to lights off. You should see at least a 1.0 drop from your degassed water to when your lights come on. This drop should be maintained within roughly 0.1 pH until the end of the photoperiod. (This shows tightly controlled regulation of CO2). Next, this drop pattern should be happening every single day (I.e no fluctuations - plants adapt slower than algae and so fluctuations will affect them most).

If your CO2 is stable, then I'd maybe look at flow, overall cleanliness and ferts.

  1. Flow is important for the delivery of CO2 and ferts. The gasses especially move incredibly slow in water, so our flow needs to bring them to the plants. As a rule of thumb, you want your filter to provide at least 10x flow turnover of the volume of your tank. This is just a guide though, some tanks are fine with less. It helps to just simply look at your plants; do all of their leaves lightly sway in the flow? What can often be seen in tanks with poor flow, is that some plants may do well (the ones with the highest flow), whereas the plants at the back with the poorest flow do really badly. If this is the case, then an adjustable wavemaker can be useful to augment flow.
  2. Organic pollution seems to be involved in many different types of algae, so doing a good cleaning on the filter and filter tubing pipes, and lightly vacuuming detritus above the substrate and on plants with a gravel vac - this can sometimes help. Remove all the dead/dying leaves on plants (these don't help the plants and contribute to pollution). If any plants have old decaying growth you can trim off the healthy tops and replant them, while getting rid of the older damaged parts.
  3. Ensuring your plants have adequate fertiliser is always a good idea. Unhealthy plants will leech organics, and this tends to attract algae. Review your fertiliser regime to ensure that it contains everything plants need. It may also help to do an assessment of your plant growth; do the plants look healthy but with algae on them? Or do they look unhealthy with algae on them? Big difference IMO. You can kill BBA off as much as you want, but if the root cause is still present, it will recur.
All of the above being said, I do think that sometimes algae that is present won't die off on it's own. If you have induced BBA, but fixed the root cause of why it showed up in the first place, then you may be best off moving on to killing it. Glutaraldehyde treatments are actually very effective at this. If you have any plants that are easy to take out of the aquarium, I'd definitely recommend an excel-spray treatment. If you mix Seachem's excel (or equivalent) in a small spray bottle with water at a ratio of 1:10 (excel:water), and spray this on the effected areas of plants outside of the tank, leave them for between 3-5 minutes, and put them back in the tank, you'll likely see very fast results.

I did the above treatment on 6 of my anubias plants, as well as some java ferns. The BBA had turned a different colour by the next day, rapidly progressing to white, and then gone. 5 out of 6 of the anubias mentioned have not had a recurrence of BBA even months later. 1 of them did get a recurrence, but it's put in the brightest part of my tank, so that was my fault...

Excel (or equivalent) can also be syringe dosed directly in the tank (with the filters turned off), you just simply wait for the flow to stop fully, and inject it on areas that are infested, then wait 5 minutes and turn the filters back on. This also does work effectively, but I find the above method of mist-spraying far more effective, and also cheaper because you only use a tiny bit of the chemical.

Lastly, I do want to emphasise again though, that it's only worth killing it off if you have fixed the root cause, so don't jump over that step.

Do you also use a dry plant fert?
I buy all my powders individually, i.e KNO3 (Nitrate), K2SO4 (Potassium), KH2PO4 (Phosphate), MGSO4 (Magnesium), I then also make my own micro fertiliser with individually chelated micro ferts, but most people do fine just buying a plain old CSM+B micro fert mix. It can be a bit confusing at first with calculating doses, but there are really handy online calculators that can help with this, such as Rotala Butterfly | Planted Aquarium Nutrient Dosing Calculator

Now, it's nice and easy. I have two 500ml dosing bottles that I mix up monthly (separate for macro/micro), then I just put 40ml of the solution into my tank as a single days dose. Nice and easy.

Anyway this reply has turned out to be far bigger than I had anticipated... I hope some of it helps.
 
It says.
...Black Beard Remover (polyglutaraldehyde) is a highly effective means of removing BBA when combined with healthy water conditions and algae eating inhabitants......
I'm not surprised. I wonder when we'll finally get a treatment that isn't glutaraldehyde based :lol:
 
Good point, I've never tried hydrogen peroxide, but I've heard good things. Do you tank dose or spray out of the tank?
I spot dose in the tank with filters and pump off not exceeding the accepted amounts. (Can’t recall the ratios)
Taking it out the tank would be alot better and it reacts like liquid carbon does :)
 
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