Aquascape Filter Help

[Joel Smith]

Hey all,

I'm currently gearing up to redo my initial aquascape into a creation that shows the lessons i've learned and the experience i've gained. I have a 340L: 123x47x65CM tank. I have two API Rena Filstar XP3 hooked up, each one doing 1324LPH. They come equipped with a jet flow outlet, which i have in the back corners aiming at 45 degree angles towards the face of the tank, and pointed up to circulate the surface. I've noticed a lot of people here using spray bars, in terms of tank circulation and what is better for the plants and fish, are the spray bars better than the jet flow? I also only have CO2 running through an atomizer on one of my filters.

I'm having a heck of a time finding a spray bar I can adapt on to my filter instead of the jet flow, so I figured i'd see if it was even worth my time.

Look forward to your opinions,
Joel

 

[Gee]

do you have any pictures to show

 

[ian_m]

Using the jets in either corner you will end up with dead spots in the tank, especially at the back. Also the jets will be pointing at each other, basically fighting each other, again wasting "flow". You really do need spray bars to get a circular flow across the whole width of the tank, leaving no areas with dead spots.

If you are using CO2 and two filters and two spray bars you need a setup like below. Putting CO2 in just via one filter leads to CO2 issues on the other half of the tank.

Also 2648l/hr is less than the recommended x10 tank volume flow rate, but you can easily supplement the flow with a power head.

 

[Stu Worrall]

I'd say it also depends on what type of scape youre going to have. Is it woody with lots of branches and stems at the back potentially blocking the flow of a spraybar or is it a simple rock iwagumi where jets would be fine?

Ive just run and completed a 120x45x45 tank on a single eheim experience 350 in one corner and a diffuser and eheim skim in the other. Ive had no flow issues/dead spots in the tank and no algae BUT there were no big branches sticking up into the flow to block it.

Re the needle valve setup in the above pic I'd tend to disagree with having the needle valves like that unless youve got a ton of cash to spend on amazing valves. Even with very good ones youll get imbalances on the two outputs and they are a PITA to setup. If your diffuser(s) is working properly then it shouldnt be putting a ton of bubbles in the tank and the co2 will be difused with the ater and will mix off one.

By the way is the 65cm the height of the tank or front to back? (I can never remember the way its supposed to be written!)

 

[Joel Smith]

Thanks for the response,

I'm attaching a photo to this post, it was taken a couple weeks ago, so things have filled in quite a bit since then. I've also seen the addition of brown algae in that timespan.

I have a spray bar coming in the mail, but it will take a bit to get here. I also ordered a
CO2 regulator 1 to 2 way connector, and a second in-line atomizer, so I can have equal flow in both halves of the tank. Until those arrive, i've placed a wave maker in the tank which gets some really good flow, but does seem a bit strong for my fish. My tank is 65cm tall--slightly less with substrate. The diagram you have posted above is similar to what i'm going to do, but i'm thinking about having both of my intakes placed directly in the middle of the two spray bars. My hope is that this will provide some good circular movement. Any opinions?

Having figured those issues out, I'm onto new ones with the algae, even with weekly water changes the algae continues to grow. I recently (Friday 6/12) switched from flourish products to a DIY from aquarium fertilizers--after I did my weekly water change and cleaned my hoses and filters. Then two days (sunday) after switching fertilizers (and doing my water change) my CO2 tank completely emptied into my aquarium, killing half of my fish, and I think in the process of the huge change in CO2 boosted the growth in brown algae. Also as of my water test today I had a huge spike in nitrates from 20ppm to 120ppm, but all other water chem levels were fine. My hope is that with the spray bar and extra CO2 valve I can balance out my tank and kill off this pesky algae. I'm also hoping that this spike in nitrate just means I'm experiencing a mini water cycle and that I also need to dose down a bit on my KNO3.

Sorry to gripe, I know its not the right thread for those topics, but they all seem somewhat related. Please let me know of any further ideas you all may have.

-Joel

 

[roadmaster]

Like your tank!
Mind if I ask where did you find spray bar for the Rena?

 

[ian_m]

Having figured those issues out, I'm onto new ones with the algae, even with weekly water changes the algae continues to grow. I recently (Friday 6/12) switched from flourish products to a DIY from aquarium fertilizers--after I did my weekly water change and cleaned my hoses and filters. Then two days (sunday) after switching fertilizers (and doing my water change) my CO2 tank completely emptied into my aquarium, killing half of my fish, and I think in the process of the huge change in CO2 boosted the growth in brown algae. Also as of my water test today I had a huge spike in nitrates from 20ppm to 120ppm, but all other water chem levels were fine. My hope is that with the spray bar and extra CO2 valve I can balance out my tank and kill off this pesky algae. I'm also hoping that this spike in nitrate just means I'm experiencing a mini water cycle and that I also need to dose down a bit on my KNO3.

1. You have cycled your tank have you ? As you probably know you need to leave your tank for at least a month or two before adding fish.
2. You need to find out why your CO2 emptied so it doesn't happen again.
3. Algae is almost always caused by too much light, killing the plants for the ferts and CO2 levels you are providing and the plants leaching organics into the water feeding the algae. Non cycled tanks under high light levels can do the same. So reduce the light levels significantly and on times (4 hours or less ?) until things settle down after a month or two.
4. Brown algae (diatoms) is symptoms of a new tank with immature filter. Will go away over time with brushing it off and water changes and lower light levels. Is scoffed by fish like Ottos and shrimp.

 

[Joel Smith]

ROADMASTER: I purchased my spray bar from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rain-Bar-Unit-for-47-fish-tank-Outflow-Pipe-16-22mm-/270692904165
shipping takes a while, but it's better than having to DIY in my opinion

IAN_M:
1. my tank had already cycled and been established for about 6 months, which is why i was assuming the nitrate spike was either a mini-cycle after my rigorous cleaning, or a sign that my dosing level--courtesy of Tom Barr--needed to be adjusted. And this morning my nitrate was still 120ppm+
2. How do I address that issue?
3. I reduced my light today, and will leave that way.
4. Once i figure out my nitrate issue I'm going to be adding six shrimp and either ottos or SAE's.

 

[ian_m]

2. How do I address that issue?

What is your regulator type.

The type below are notorious for a problem called end of tank dump. This is where as the CO2 tank pressure falls (all the liquid CO2 has gone) the regulator loses regulation and empties the remaining CO2 into the tank. Not a problem with a CO2 aerosol but major if a 2Kg FE.

 

[Joel Smith]

What is your regulator type.

The type below are notorious for a problem called end of tank dump. This is where as the CO2 tank pressure falls (all the liquid CO2 has gone) the regulator loses regulation and empties the remaining CO2 into the tank. Not a problem with a CO2 aerosol but major if a 2Kg FE.

I have an Archaea Dual Gauge Pro CO2 Regulator. In the photo you can see the Wyin Multiway Connector, but it wasn't originally hooked up when my tank emptied in to my aquarium.