are these doses right..!!!

ziggy_909

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4 Jun 2008
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hi i am rechecking my EI dosing schedule and have come up with these measurments based on the Nutricalc tool..

i think i need these ppm's

Nitrate (NO3) 20ppm per week.
Potassium (K) 30ppm per week.
Phosphate (PO4) 3ppm per week
Magnesium (Mg) 10ppm per week
Iron (Fe) 0.5ppm per week (from trace AE Mix)

Nutricalc give me these Measurements..
based on a volume of approx 230liter aquarium
co2 injection
2x 54watts as i run now or should i turn all 4 tubes on ...

KNO3 =3.54g X 3 per week
K2SO4=1.62g X 3 per week
KH2Po4=1.00g X 3 per week
MgSO4=9.16g X 3 per week

Trace mix (AE) = 0.62g x3 per week

one question i have is why the K2SO4 is added as there is no mention of it on the ceg4048 tutorial on dry ferts...
also that seems a lot of MgSo4 almost 30grams a week is the correct...and do my calculation look correct...have scales so dont want to make solutions...
 

aaronnorth

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K2SO4 (sulphate of potash) - normally enough potassium is added with the potassium nitrate and potassium phosphate dosing. Some people like to add a little bit more, so that may be the reason for it not being on there.

I would turn all 4 tubes on in the middle of your photoperiod for a 'midday burst'.

magnesium should be around 7ppm, so try again and this should lower it.
 

ceg4048

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Hi,
K2SO4 is unnecessary if you are already dosing KNO3. If you were using a different source of nitrate than KNO3 you would need to add K2SO4 in order to supply the K.

MgSO4 is another gray area. It's included in the calculations because few people know the Mg content of their tap water without proper testing so this ensures that you don't suffer Mg deficiency if you are using RO or if your tap is low in Mg. The amounts do appear to be high so you can just add a few teaspoons on water change day and see how it goes.

Again, the calculations are based on teaspoon values and are not meant to be so accurate. You don't really need to measure out exactly 3.54 grams KNO3 for example. You can use 3.5 or even 4 grams without any issues.

If you are just starting up the tank I would advise to just use 50% of your lighting capacity for the first 6 weeks or so. This lowers your nutrient and CO2 demand and gives you room for error. After a while you can then start turning on the other 50% for a few hours a day and gradually increase the lighting and CO2. Each time you make an adjustment leave it there for 2-3 weeks and observe. Deficiencies will show themselves gradually this way and you can make adjustments to dosing or CO2 without incurring and algal bloom.

Hope this clarifies...

Cheers,
 

ziggy_909

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4 Jun 2008
Messages
53
cheers as always

i am getting crypt's with miss formed leaves almost like holes at the edge like a semi circle
java fern leaves with pin holes mis formed un-uniform leaves and dying leaves black / brown)

tank has been running for about 2 months with EI but with out the MgsO4
 

ziggy_909

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4 Jun 2008
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my previous dosing was
KNO3 5.5g x 3 a week...
KH2PO4 1.5g x 3 a week....
Trace 1g x 3 a week...

so i have been over dosing the KNO3 ie over dosing potassium if your Potassium deficiency assumption correct...
 

ceg4048

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Sounds like you might have sub-par CO2. Add more CO2, or more flow and take a reading in a few weeks.

Cheers,
 

ziggy_909

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4 Jun 2008
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ok will keep an eye on it ... i was running two eheim 2024's but have upgraded to a Fluval fx5

should i go ahead and add the MgSO4 .. have still to order it ...
 

Ed Seeley

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3 Jul 2007
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Nottingham
aaronnorth said:
no, only thing that affects pH is CO2
I'm sure that's not what you meant because it's really not true.

Lots of things effect pH.
Various organic acids produced by biological processes and coming out of certain types of wood, peat and substrate will lower.
You then also get bases that come from various rocks and gravels that will raise the pH. Add that to the effect of the water's KH to start with.
Also if you dose with products that contain carbonates you will raise the KH and this will effect the pH, e.g. potassium carbonate or Brighty K.
 
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