Baby CRS and CO2

mafoo

Member
Joined
11 Nov 2012
Messages
181
Location
London
I just fished out a dying CRS today. My 2nd to last berried one :arghh:

I think the signs are pointing to this being bacterial. Does anyone know where to get Furanol in this country? Or know the brand name of a human one I could persuade a doctor to give me some of that is safe for shrimps and wont nuke the filter bacteria.

Failing that - i might do an 80% water change - deep clean the filter and hoses - throw in half a bottle of denitrol in and pray that no more die. :grumpy:
 

basil

Member
Joined
1 Feb 2009
Messages
625
Mosura bt9 or genchem beta Glucans both good products for combating bacterial issues. I still stand by almond leaves and especially dried banana for their antibacterial properties.
 

bogwood

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Joined
1 Jan 2009
Messages
410
Location
Merseyside
Sorry to hear of your continued losses.

Different things work for different people. After a lot of research and listening to experienced UKAPS members over recent years thisworks for me, so im sticking with it.

I have a number of ss and sss grade in my shrimp only set ups.
Never come across bacterial problems myself.( i will probably regret this)

I put great importance on over filtered, long established tanks.
Only RO water is used. Temp 21/22. TDS 130 PH 6.5 GH 5
And i basically feed. Almond. Banana Leaves, Nettles. with Biomax food once a week.
As i precaution i also use some Monsura products, at water change time. Namely....
Bio plus.
BT9
Tonic Pro.
Old sea mud
The tanks are over run with a variety of Moss...... ( bought from reliable sources)..... Weekly fert, but no CO2.
 

Pedro Rosa

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Joined
12 May 2010
Messages
624
Location
Linda-a-Velha, Lisbon, Portugal
Sorry to hear of your continued losses.
I put great importance on over filtered, long established tanks.
Only RO water is used. Temp 21/22. TDS 130 PH 6.5 GH 5
And i basically feed. Almond. Banana Leaves, Nettles. with Biomax food once a week.
As i precaution i also use some Monsura products, at water change time. Namely....
Bio plus.
BT9
Tonic Pro.
Old sea mud
The tanks are over run with a variety of Moss...... ( bought from reliable sources)..... Weekly fert, but no CO2.
Thanks for the info.
Can i ask you how do you bring the GH to 5 using RO water?
Old sea mud have calcium and magnesium, also?

Pedro.
 

bogwood

Member
Joined
1 Jan 2009
Messages
410
Location
Merseyside
Thanks for the info.
Can i ask you how do you bring the GH to 5 using RO water?
Old sea mud have calcium and magnesium, also?

Pedro.
Hi.
Before doing anything i note the tanks TDS.

To my 20% replacement RO water i add all the Mosura additives, plus Tropica fert.
Then i had the necessary amount of Bee shrimp mineral Gh,( only a small amount). to bring the TDS up to 130.
If, as is sometimes the case the tanks water had crept unto 135/140, i make my mix at 120
After mixing for a few mins add to the tanks.

On testing the TDS is 130 or very close, and the GH settles at 5. PH varies from 6.3 to 6.8.
My tanks use amazonia, and wood, ( no stones which can effect the water) which no doubt helps.
This system has worked well for me, so i keep with it, stability is important.
 

mafoo

Member
Joined
11 Nov 2012
Messages
181
Location
London
A few more deaths later, I've spotted some tiny white worm/leech things (about 3-7mm long tapered at both ends) in the tank. Slithering around on the driftwood etc, they might be Planaria but I'm no expert.

Do we think these are the cause of the deaths of the adults I've been having recently?

Has anyone else had experience with them. If they are then I'll grap some Genchem stuff or panacur. (what to people recommend?)
 
Joined
26 Feb 2013
Messages
3,349
Planaria can kill even adult shrimp if left to grow big enough.They are a carnivorous type of pest. It's normally introduced via plants and other equipment. If it's planaria and not detritus worm, then killing it is best.
Detritus types of worms that are often confused with planaria are tinner, don't have the arrow shaped head of planaria and swim in an "S" form.
But you may have two underlying issues, one too much food left overs and detritus to cause a worm infestation, and then at the same time contribute to bacterial infections.
 
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