Hi Kev
Thanks for the feedback and questions.
I started the PFK biotope series in the September 2009 issue. You can see three of them here -
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2 ... y=1&vol=-1
Silver sand or even play sand would be ok. Keep it shallow and well-maintained to prevent anoxic build-up.
You would be accurate to leave out planting to replicate a realistic discus habitat, according to Heiko Bleher. Some floating frogbit would work though and would provide additional shelter and biological filtration.
Over the series I have used a wide variety of wood from locally collected (Ireland, E. Midlands) to pieces available in shops such as Sumatra wood (Unipac). My biotopes are not 100% accurate, as I like to balance something that is achievable by mosy hobbyists with something that looks accurate.
I do not know what leaves you could easily obtain that come from a true discus habitat. You could apply some artistic licensing and choose from oak, copper beech or catappa (Indian almond leaves). Ensure they are dead and dried before using. Boiling them up prior to use is effective and allows them to sink immediately. They will also help with the blackwater tint effect.
Black brush/beard algae (BBA) is usually associated with fluctuating CO2 levels in combination with inppropriate lighting levels. Circulation, in my experience, doesn't influence it so much. I would say that it shouldn't be much of an issue in the kind of set-up you propose. If it does start then invest in some liquid carbon and spot dose 1/2 regular dose on infected areas and it will kill it right away before it takes hold. I would be surprised if you have a BBA issue with a non-CO2, low-light set-up with plenty of floating plants.
Thanks for the feedback and questions.
I started the PFK biotope series in the September 2009 issue. You can see three of them here -
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2 ... y=1&vol=-1
Silver sand or even play sand would be ok. Keep it shallow and well-maintained to prevent anoxic build-up.
You would be accurate to leave out planting to replicate a realistic discus habitat, according to Heiko Bleher. Some floating frogbit would work though and would provide additional shelter and biological filtration.
Over the series I have used a wide variety of wood from locally collected (Ireland, E. Midlands) to pieces available in shops such as Sumatra wood (Unipac). My biotopes are not 100% accurate, as I like to balance something that is achievable by mosy hobbyists with something that looks accurate.
I do not know what leaves you could easily obtain that come from a true discus habitat. You could apply some artistic licensing and choose from oak, copper beech or catappa (Indian almond leaves). Ensure they are dead and dried before using. Boiling them up prior to use is effective and allows them to sink immediately. They will also help with the blackwater tint effect.
Black brush/beard algae (BBA) is usually associated with fluctuating CO2 levels in combination with inppropriate lighting levels. Circulation, in my experience, doesn't influence it so much. I would say that it shouldn't be much of an issue in the kind of set-up you propose. If it does start then invest in some liquid carbon and spot dose 1/2 regular dose on infected areas and it will kill it right away before it takes hold. I would be surprised if you have a BBA issue with a non-CO2, low-light set-up with plenty of floating plants.