Came this far

[Archer]

Yup, same to me, I rather watch my tank and fish for hours. You have a good start, hope you can keep them well.
Hint: algae algae algae
Ferts ferts ferts
Water change
High quality food etc

Welcome to hell of algae(just kidding)

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Haha true on the algae. I have downloaded the tropica app to follow the 90 day regime.

Fish food, already bought some japan made fish food. Hopefully i choose to best one.

About ferts, i am really still in the shady part of this topic. I thought when i got the co2 kit i am all covered but upon reading more, i think its becoming a necessity for maintenance. Correct me if im wrong


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[ahjoe0digi]

Plant requirement
Energy: light
Substances for growth and function:
1.macro such as nitrate potassium phosphate carbon dioxide
2. Micro such as calcium magnesium boron etc
*plant uptake of ferts may from water column or substrate.

Environment and waterflow:
Water hardness, pH, temperature transportation of substances by waterflow

These issues will significantly effect your successes of keeping plants thriving.

Same as you I though co2 and bright light should be enough. I only dose micro. As a consequence in my first scape my plants suffer from serious nitrogen deficiency. My stem plants like macandra never survive 2nd trim and leaves grow smaller and smaller. Whenever I dose micro it seems that just algae benefit from it. I got staghorn algae, thread algae, fuzz algae on my plants. And surviving plants just grow slow. Hairgrass spreading but slow. (healthy plants normally won't have algae)

Just ask us if u got any problems

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[Archer]

Plant requirement
Energy: light
Substances for growth and function:
1.macro such as nitrate potassium phosphate carbon dioxide
2. Micro such as calcium magnesium boron etc
*plant uptake of ferts may from water column or substrate.

Environment and waterflow:
Water hardness, pH, temperature transportation of substances by waterflow

These issues will significantly effect your successes of keeping plants thriving.

Same as you I though co2 and bright light should be enough. I only dose micro. As a consequence in my first scape my plants suffer from serious nitrogen deficiency. My stem plants like macandra never survive 2nd trim and leaves grow smaller and smaller. Whenever I dose micro it seems that just algae benefit from it. I got staghorn algae, thread algae, fuzz algae on my plants. And surviving plants just grow slow. Hairgrass spreading but slow. (healthy plants normally won't have algae)

Just ask us if u got any problems

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Now this is really becoming technical and I like it. I should address the water parameter first. I am still not that familiar with my water spec as I am still about to flood my tank. Will share the result of my strip test and hopefully you can provide me some insight.

 

[GotCrabs]

Don't rely on strip test readings, I feel and have read that they aren't always correct, should grab a test kit mate.

 

[Archer]

Late post for my hardscape in the tank

I am to get a the latest photo of my tank later. I have already planted and did some last minute change on the plant's location. Haven't tested any water parameters yet. Just tried to set it up and have it working as a whole. Filter, lily pipes, CO2, light and heater. Timer is still to be set.

To share my experience, doing the hardscape is really hard and time consuming. Watching videos in youtube on how it's done seems so easy. But when you really do it actual, I did realize that it's really hard-scape ^ ^. As I am trying to follow an iwagumi style, every little detail I take into consideration. After finalizing my hardscape and got the look I want, I flooded it using the smallest tubing (I think the one use for air stone) to minimize disturbing the substrate.Using that tubing really took some time.

After getting almost 1/3 of water in the tank, I tried planting. First with the HC, and I must say that this plant is the real challenge.So delicate, easily floats and gets a lot of dirt in the tank due to fallen leaves. They are beautiful which is true but they come with a price. True effort and a lot of taking care of.

Then I change place the littorella uniflora with the eliochair acicularis mini as per my original plan. For the littorella uniflora, the challenge is trying to shred it to smaller parts. But planting is manageable. Same goes with eliochair acicularis mini.

I am satisfied with my Eden 511 filter with integrated 100W heater. Very quite and flow is nice. Priming is done in a few minutes. Consume much of my time getting tube settled so as not to look cluttered as this is positioned beside my tank.

As for the CO2, I got worried a bit because I thought the adjustment in the solenoid is damage. But thankfully, after some tinkering I was able to take control and get about 1 bubble per 3 -4 seconds. Not sure if this is the optimal setting but I need to get this check first. Got a bit of challenge in positioning the atomizer. I will post next on this to ask your feedback if my position/location of it is optima.

Then goes the lighting and cleaning the outside of the tank's glass.

 

[CooKieS]

Hi,

Be aware that the position of your stones in the middle and the right is a bit too flat, they will eventually become covered by your carpeting plants.

 

[Archer]

Hi,

Be aware that the position of your stones in the middle and the right is a bit too flat, they will eventually become covered by your carpeting plants.

Yes, thank you for noticing. I did some retouch on the stones on my planting but if they will get covered eventually, I would not mind as I am trying to get the feeling and experience of something growing and flourishing. For now, I am satisfied to getting it work and seeing it in actual what I have learned from the forum and videos rather than getting it all perfect in theory.

 

[ahjoe0digi]

Yes, thank you for noticing. I did some retouch on the stones on my planting but if they will get covered eventually, I would not mind as I am trying to get the feeling and experience of something growing and flourishing. For now, I am satisfied to getting it work and seeing it in actual what I have learned from the forum and videos rather than getting it all perfect in theory.

Theory and then practical , both are important. Really hope that your scape will fill in nicely

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[Archer]

Theory and then practical , both are important. Really hope that your scape will fill in nicely

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Thank you. Hopefully I can show you a good example on what I learned from this group.

 

[Archer]

So here's the latest update on my tank. Water still a little bit murky?

Not sure if the co2 atomizer is in an optimal position but prefer it to be a little hidden.


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[Archer]

Just an update on my tank.

Did a 50% water change last December 01 on my tank. Got to see some tiny bubbles coming out of the HC, hopefully it's a good sign even though their roots aren't fully establish yet on the substrate.

I've also introduce already my neon tetras on the tank as my temporary bowl seems not keep them all good. All seems active and been monitoring them for any issue with their new habitat.

Got to shopped yesterday as well for some dried bloodworm, glass scraper, suckers and ADA green brighty step 1. Tried searching for fertilizers and per recommendations that I need ferts for my plants as CO2 will not be enough to keep them thriving, I ended up going the ADA route.

I thought that since I started my substrate and power sand as ADA, might as well do it all the way. Another pointer that made me decide on this is the simplicity of explanation as a starting aquarium, I just need to push 1 or 2 application daily for the next three months. I believe this is not the all in one solution ferts and there are other brands that might be more cheaper and effective, but I guess it will be a good start on my dosing. Please do recommend some that you like and currently using so I can check further.

I see my tetras seems thin or they are still small not sure as I do not have information how old they are. It's for this reason that I bought different fish foods and the dried bloodworms to get variety on their diet.

I also bought five cherry shrimps and four nerita snall (zebra). Basically my reason behind them is their function to get any algae that might start and finish up leftover fish food. I am still trying to get the right amount of fish food as at the moment I have four different type of them. Will try to come up with schedules as well when to give what.

I think I got too many snails (not sure please correct me if I am wrong), but only got to buy them in a plastic of four yesterday. I was able to see maybe four to five kinds of snail, but not sure what they are and not been able to get photos (shops seems to forbid taking photography with their products). I just specifically looked for this zebra which I am certain due to their color.

Since I am trying to maintain a clean glass look, I indulge for this hanging glass tube with barrel airstone for my airpump. Will try to set it up to work during the night to disperse excess CO2 and increase water agitation.

 

[Archer]

Latest update on my tank. Did a 30% water change.


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[ahjoe0digi]

Err, is it fully cycled?? If no than you may expect something happens to your fish and shrimp. It normally take weeks to fully cycle a tank. Fully cycle means you cultivate enough beneficial bacteria in substrate and filter to remove any harmful waste present in water.
Actually fertiliser in Ada will not be enough, they just serve as kick start. The best part about Ada is that it can serve as nutrient and pH buffer and maintain water quality if I remember it right.

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[ahjoe0digi]

You can get fertiliser from lab supplier.
KNO3, K2SO4, and KH2PO4
So far I dose kno3 and flourish comprehensive.
KNO3
Mix kno3 and water until no more kno3 able to dissolve ( beware the process make the solution cool, keep it at 25 degree Celsius) mix one part of kno3 solution with two part of water. Dose 2ml of final solution should raise 4ppm of nitrate and 2.5 ppm of potassium.

K2SO4
Mix k2so4 in water until no more salt can dissolve. Keep temperature at 25 degree Celsius. Mix one part of solution to one part of water. 4ml of final solution will raise potassium level by 2.8ppm.

KH2PO4
At 25 degree mix kh2po4 with water until no more can be dissolved. Mix one part of solution with four parts of water. 1ml of final solution should raise phosphate by 1ppm and 0.38ppm of potassium.

I use syringe for accurate measurements. I use the above method because I do not have good weight balance. Since I know the solubility of those salt I just do some calculations to bypass the need of balance scale. I believe you have thermometer?

I dose 1ml of comprehensive.

I dose 3 times of everything perweek and do 50% water change.
I only dose roughly half of EI, you can always adjust your dosage accordingly.

Hope can help

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[Archer]

Err, is it fully cycled?? If no than you may expect something happens to your fish and shrimp. It normally take weeks to fully cycle a tank. Fully cycle means you cultivate enough beneficial bacteria in substrate and filter to remove any harmful waste present in water.
Actually fertiliser in Ada will not be enough, they just serve as kick start. The best part about Ada is that it can serve as nutrient and pH buffer and maintain water quality if I remember it right.

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Sorry for the late reply, been quite busy at work for the past days. I believe it's not fully cycled yet, however at the situation I have no choice but to introduce the fish already. It became a nitrogen cycle with fish. So far no issue is seen on fish or shrimp. All seems happy and active. However, just today my last nerita snail died. I think I bought a bad batch as they were in plastic and seems inactive when I brought them home. I think I will stick with the fish and shrimp.

 

[Archer]

You can get fertiliser from lab supplier.
KNO3, K2SO4, and KH2PO4
So far I dose kno3 and flourish comprehensive.
KNO3
Mix kno3 and water until no more kno3 able to dissolve ( beware the process make the solution cool, keep it at 25 degree Celsius) mix one part of kno3 solution with two part of water. Dose 2ml of final solution should raise 4ppm of nitrate and 2.5 ppm of potassium.

K2SO4
Mix k2so4 in water until no more salt can dissolve. Keep temperature at 25 degree Celsius. Mix one part of solution to one part of water. 4ml of final solution will raise potassium level by 2.8ppm.

KH2PO4
At 25 degree mix kh2po4 with water until no more can be dissolved. Mix one part of solution with four parts of water. 1ml of final solution should raise phosphate by 1ppm and 0.38ppm of potassium.

I use syringe for accurate measurements. I use the above method because I do not have good weight balance. Since I know the solubility of those salt I just do some calculations to bypass the need of balance scale. I believe you have thermometer?

I dose 1ml of comprehensive.

I dose 3 times of everything perweek and do 50% water change.
I only dose roughly half of EI, you can always adjust your dosage accordingly.

Hope can help




View attachment 95347

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I don't think it's an option to me. Tried searching online for the stuff and seems they are highly prohibited and regulated in Hong Kong. Not sure, but I think they can be use to make explosives (correct me if I am wrong). But thanks for the information!

By the way, I kept on reading El dosing, what does El means?

 

[Archer]

CO2 incident....

So this afternoon around 1PM HKT, while I am sleeping from a nights work my wife woke me up because of the sound coming from the CO2 tank. I immediately woke up and heard a strong leaking sound coming from the regulator and CO2 cylinder. I immediately unplugged the solenoid and close the main valve of the cylinder. The leaking sound stopped. So I tried to hand tighten again the regulator/solenoid in the cylinder but still leaking is happening.

So I decided to disassemble the regulator/solenoid with the cylinder to check further. Saw a blue pressure gasket inside which seems a little bit deformed but I believe is still usable. I tried to put it back together and this time use a vise grip to further tighten it. Then tried plugging in and adjusting the pressure and seems leaking sound stopped and pressure back to normal.

I tried making bubble with dishwasher to test any leak between the regulator/solenoid and cylinder. No movement in the bubbles and seems pretty airtight. Then tried checking leak between the hose and the connector in the regulator/solenoid, again seems normal and airtight.

Can someone please advise if I did the right leak checking?

Also, for this type of regulator/solenoid is it only for hand tightening? (I can't remember how it was put together in the shop)

Also, is there any point of concern I need to be aware about as leak seems to stop but I am not fully confident with it anymore.

Please also advise how to read the dials as it seems to not move much and I am not really sure what the numbers means.

Thanks everyone.

 

[sgdiscus]

CO2 incident....

So this afternoon around 1PM HKT, while I am sleeping from a nights work my wife woke me up because of the sound coming from the CO2 tank. I immediately woke up and heard a strong leaking sound coming from the regulator and CO2 cylinder. I immediately unplugged the solenoid and close the main valve of the cylinder. The leaking sound stopped. So I tried to hand tighten again the regulator/solenoid in the cylinder but still leaking is happening.

So I decided to disassemble the regulator/solenoid with the cylinder to check further. Saw a blue pressure gasket inside which seems a little bit deformed but I believe is still usable. I tried to put it back together and this time use a vise grip to further tighten it. Then tried plugging in and adjusting the pressure and seems leaking sound stopped and pressure back to normal.

I tried making bubble with dishwasher to test any leak between the regulator/solenoid and cylinder. No movement in the bubbles and seems pretty airtight. Then tried checking leak between the hose and the connector in the regulator/solenoid, again seems normal and airtight.

View attachment 95596

View attachment 95597
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View attachment 95603

Can someone please advise if I did the right leak checking?

Also, for this type of regulator/solenoid is it only for hand tightening? (I can't remember how it was put together in the shop)

Also, is there any point of concern I need to be aware about as leak seems to stop but I am not fully confident with it anymore.

Please also advise how to read the dials as it seems to not move much and I am not really sure what the numbers means.

Thanks everyone.

Hi, I have the same solenoid as yours.

It is hand tightened. And yes you have done the right checks.

The most common leak is from the 'No 2' location that you highlighted.

The numbers on the dial is Pressure the the Co2 tank is exerting on the solenoid. It essentially measures the remaining pressure in your CO2 tank.

The pressure is measured in 'Bar'. So there is 3 Bar in your CO2 tank.

 

[Archer]

Hi, I have the same solenoid as yours.

It is hand tightened. And yes you have done the right checks.

The most common leak is from the 'No 2' location that you highlighted.

The numbers on the dial is Pressure the the Co2 tank is exerting on the solenoid. It essentially measures the remaining pressure in your CO2 tank.

The pressure is measured in 'Bar'. So there is 3 Bar in your CO2 tank.

Thanks for sharing! Tried to do another leak test this morning on both points and seems all good and airtight.

So it's hand tighten, no wonder there's no scratch before. But I don't feel confident about it anymore. Got worried like if no one is home or it's just my wife.. what could have happen. The leak sound is kinda loud and felt the air or co2 when I hold the cylinder during leak.

I tried to dial in the valve as little as almost on off now. Is that ok?

Just bought the co2 kit last November 24 and it's less than a month in use. It's hook up with a timer working less than 8 hours each day. Is this incident something normal? This is my first time to use co2 and I am just worried of any safety issue that might occur.

Kindly give me tips and advise to aliviate this worry I have.



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[sgdiscus]

Are you using an inline CO2 reactor? To be honest, I have had leak before BUT the reason is because my tubing i used were old and inflexible. In addition, I was using an inline CO2 reactor which needed about 2 bar to push the co2 gas through. So as a result the leak happened at where I connected the tubing. I changed the tubing to a black high pressure tubing. The leak stopped.

So far I have changed the CO2 cylinder twice. Both times hand tigthened. I have also confirmed this with my LFS.

When you said you felt the leak.. can you try to remember whether the leak stopped because you readjusted the No2 location or because you tightened the solenoid to the cylinder?

I went to check mine. It is still tight and requires some strength from me to loosen it. This confirms that the thread design of the regulator is working as intended.

If yours feel loose after a period of operations... then the thread could be worn. Bring it back to the dealer and have it check.