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Can Anyone Recommend A Reliable CO2 Check Valve?

jaypeecee

Member
Joined
21 Jan 2015
Messages
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Location
Bracknell
Hi Folks,

I have used several manufacturers' CO2 check valves and found some to be not fit-for-purpose. In other words, they allow water to flow in the opposite direction to the CO2. This can happen when the CO2 is switched off by a solenoid valve, for example. I just want something that is reliable. The check valve may be made from transparent plastic, metal or some other suitable material. It would need to have compression fittings on both sides to secure non-silicone 6/4mm tubing. And that's it.

Can anyone recommend a specific product?

Thanks in advance.

JPC
 
Hi Karl (@Zeus.)

Thanks a bunch. I have an RS account so that helps. Always gives me a good excuse to buy other goodies. I also have push-fit connections on some of my three-way adaptors. Isn't it astonishing that they work so well?

Thanks again.

JPC
 
SMC ones are good too and cheaper (unless on a company account :)) than Legris. Also slightly lower cracking pressure, I believe. Depends on what pressure you're running to the tank.
 
SMC ones are good too and cheaper (unless on a company account :)) than Legris. Also slightly lower cracking pressure, I believe. Depends on what pressure you're running to the tank.
Hi @noodlesuk

Thanks very much for that. I use quite a wide range of pressures.

JPC
 
Isn't it astonishing that they work so well?
This is so true about the push fittings!

They are used so widely as well. I recently had a window cleaner do my house. He had this complex filter setup to get water clean before he cleaned it with a water fed hose. The water fed hose had these fittings. He had borrowed the equipment from a friend and didn't know how to connect it. I was hovering admiring his filter setup and showed him how to use the push fittings as I was familiar with them.
 
Isn't it astonishing that they work so well?
Yes, and they work well IME, been using then over 20 at home and work, do prefer a soldered copper fitting for domestic water/central heating as it is more compact esp when the fitting is on view, but the push fittings work well as you can fit them even if water/air is flowing/leaking, then when all plumbed up presto done. Plus handy to take apart at a later date.
 
We once had a push fit cap on a water pipe come off in the evening. It shot like a bullet at the wall, making an almighty noise and putting a dent in the plaster. Luckily we were still awake and could turn the mains tap off, otherwise the downstairs loo would have flooded.
 
We once had a push fit cap on a water pipe come off in the evening. It shot like a bullet at the wall, making an almighty noise and putting a dent in the plaster. Luckily we were still awake and could turn the mains tap off, otherwise the downstairs loo would have flooded.
:eek:, I find its best use a marker pen to what depth it needs to be pushed in, as if its not fully in they can blow off.
 
Push fits can fail but it's usually down to constantly inserting/removing the pipes and this can wear/bend the gripping teeth.
Also if tubes aren't cut straight or are oval that can weaken the seal.

We use them at work for vehicle pneumatics and they perform very well at pressures up to 8 bar.
Before you ask @jaypeecee we only have the check valves in 8mm . 😄
 
Last edited:
Before you ask @jaypeecee we only have the check valves in 8mm .
Hi @John q

That's fine, John.

I normally avoid silicone tubing for use with CO2 as it's slightly permeable to this gas. But, it does possibly have the advantage of not being a shiny, smooth surface. So, based on what others have said, the push-fit gripper teeth may grip silicone better than some of the alternatives. I don't think I've ever used any check valve above 2 bar.

JPC
 
We use Nylon pa12 (din 73378) tube which is fairly hard and shiny without issue, also tail fittings/reducers are hard plastic and again work well.
I think the trick is to make sure the inital fit is sound and try not to constantly remove the tube from the fitting once it's made.
 
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