Cannot defeat BBA and plant ailment!! HELP!

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Hello everyone.. I've had this setup for maybe 3 months and i can't seem to get it right :(

My tank is 200L 100x50x60
Filtration Eheim professionel 4+ 350T + Tunze 6095 for better flow.
Co2 diffuser connected to filter outlet
Light Giesemann PULZAR HO 52W

Photoperiod is from 11 till 17 at 50% of lamps power (1:30Hr for "sunrise" and "sunset")
So basically lights on at 9:30 and out at 18:30

Co2 readings:
- 10:00 Co2 on (PH 7.6)
-17:00 Co2 off (PH 6.3)

I am dosing EI
My Macro :
- 1l RO ;
- 95 g. KNO3
- 15 g. KH2PO4
Dosing 23ml

My micro:
- 1 l RO
- 26 gr CSM+B
- 20 gr. Fe (13%) DTPA
- 4,7 gr. MnSO4*7HO2
- apie 1 gr. Vitamin C
- apie 0,5 gr. Potassium sorbate
Dosing 18ml

I added the Tunze when i noticed the plants are not healthy, i did my research, so i decided that good flow was missing and thats why my plants were not healthy, but after i added Tunze, the BBA started showing on the places where the flow is biggest!

Recently (like 4-5 days ago) i upped my co2 levels and stated doing water changes more often (change 50-60%), before i was doing water changes once a week. Still cannot see any signs of the plants getting better.
Maybe you guys could help me out and give me some other advices that could help (excluding dosing EasyCarbo).

Ask in case i missed on something, i am attaching few photos of my tank. Thank you for your time!
IMG_1028.JPEG
IMG_1029.JPEG
IMG_1030.JPEG
IMG_1031.JPEG
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
I've found some bacteria that came with Eheim filter, i have not used it. Should i add it directly to the filter, or i can add it to the tank?
 

Tim Harrison

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
5 Nov 2011
Messages
7,791
Location
UK
Photoperiod is from 11 till 17 at 50% of lamps power (1:30Hr for "sunrise" and "sunset")
So basically lights on at 9:30 and out at 18:30
I'm a bit confused about the length of your photoperiod. If it's 9:30 - 18:30 that's 3 hrs too long. I'd reduce it to 6 hrs.
Keep up with the water changes, and keep your filter clean and make sure it has plenty of media to deal with organics.
If you aren't already, try and get the 1.0 pH drop or lime green drop checker before lights on and all the way till lights off.
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Well the lamp i have is LED and i can control it via BT interface, so i made "sunrise" and "sunset" feature. So the lamp turns on at 9:30 and it takes 1:30 hr to reach the 50% of its power, and it stays like that till 17, then it starts to dim out till 18:30 and then the lamp is completely off. I believe that feature is nonsense?
 

Jayefc1

Member
Joined
2 Sep 2017
Messages
2,059
Location
Swadlincote
Your ph should have dropped by one before the lights come on for a start not at lights out the photo period seems way too long and do you have a drop checker that is lime green where ever you place it in the tank at lights on that could take up to 3 hours before your lights come on I would start to do 3 water changes a week and your lights need to be max 6 give the plants time to recover instead of forcing them to grow unhealthy
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Well, theoretically the photoperiod is supposed to be only 6 hrs, from 11 till 17. I wanted to be able to have a view on the aquarium a little bit more, so i added those "sunrise,sunset" features. Are they disturbing? It takes about 1hr for it to reach 35% of the lights power. Should i disable that feature? When technically the photoperiod starts with this kind of set up?
 

Edvet

Global Moderator
Staff member
Joined
15 Aug 2013
Messages
5,149
Location
Lelystad, Netherlands
Algae can grow on almost no light, so kill it for now.
If all is good and healthy you can gradually add some time for viewing.'
Alternatively change the times to when you are at home, daylight adds to lighting times too though.
 

Zeus.

Member
Joined
1 Oct 2016
Messages
3,224
Location
Yorkshire,UK
Algae can grow on almost no light, so kill it for now.
If all is good and healthy you can gradually add some time for viewing.'
Alternatively change the times to when you are at home, daylight adds to lighting times too though.
I have cardboard shields on tank fronts as wife like to open curtains covers

Should i disable that feature?
Yes or reduce the ramp up period to say 15mins

Co2 readings:
- 10:00 Co2 on (PH 7.6)
-17:00 Co2 off (PH 6.3)
Have you done a pH profile? it sounds like you have unstable [CO2] during your photo period, pH should be stable from lights on to CO2 off, doing a pH profile will confirm whats happening in your tank.

pH profile - take pH every 30mins from lights on till CO2 off and note it down and do a graph
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Thanks for the answers.

So maybe i am dosing CO2 incorrectly. I could do the profile, i have an electrode which read to display device (JBL). Anyway, if you say that i should have stable pH till i turn CO2 off, then i guess i should turn it on way earlier than i do now.
 

Jayefc1

Member
Joined
2 Sep 2017
Messages
2,059
Location
Swadlincote
Your ph drop should be 1 before your photo period starts so the co2 is in the water for your plants to use on.my tank it takes 3 hours so my co2 comes on at 2 lights on at 5 with half an hour sunrise then off at 11 half an hour sunset both sunrise and sunset are included in the 6 hour period
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Would it be bad for you if u would make ur pH to drop in lets say 1 hour instead of 3?
 
Last edited:

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Okay, so 9 days have passed, the plants health got slightly better, the BBA seems to have stopped producing, plants started growing slightly faster, but they still seem very unhealthy. Added some photos while lights are still off, so you could see how older leaves are way darker green than the top ones.

I have changed my light schedule from 11 to 17, 30mins for “sunrise and sunset” included in that schedule. I am doing 2 water changes per week. Ei dosing of course. Starting the co2 2 hours before lights on. Drop checker is green on the most immobile spot

pH readings -
9:00 co2 on, 7.51 pH
11:00 lights on, pH 6.53
11:30 pH 6.47
12:00 pH 6.42
12:30 pH 6.38
13:00 pH 6.34-6.33 and stays like that till lights off.

P.S. My macro ferts got a little bit cloudy on the bottom 3 weeks after i made them(micro cannot see, because the solution is dark).. Why is that? I have RO water, i warmed it a little bit for better solubility, but it seems that my filter is not doing 100% job, because RO waters kH is 2.3, which is really weird, is that cloudiness because of that?
 
Last edited:

ian_m

Global Moderator
Staff member
Joined
25 Jan 2012
Messages
5,191
Location
Eastleigh
1. You are not dosing EI. You have invented something else. Please dose EI, that includes MgSO4.
2. I would reduce lights to 5 hours or less for a while (month) till plants bed down.
3. If you have no livestock, dose some liquid carbon, possibly x5 or even x10 dose as that will wipe out algae, especially BBA. Be careful some plants (do research first) are not happy with liquid carbon. Try spot dosing (inject via a syringe) liquid carbon on any particularly bad areas.
4. If you are using RO water in your tank (why ????) what are you hardening up with ?
5. I assume you are dosing alternate days macro and micro ?
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
I’ve found old post in Lithuanian forum of a guy who makes his own ferts so i copied the recipe..

I mix RO with tap water for aquarium, i am pretty sure our tap water has alot of Mg and calcium (it is not drinkable, that is why i have RO).
Yes i am dosing alternate days.

So why are my ferts getting cloudy so soon?
 

dw1305

Expert
Joined
7 Apr 2008
Messages
10,526
Location
nr Bath
Hi all,
i am pretty sure our tap water has alot of Mg and calcium
I don't know, but I'd expect that your water would be very soft.

The reason would be that geology of all the Baltic states is <"East European Craton">, so basically very old (Precambrian), hard, inert rocks, without any limestones.

cheers Darrel
 

ian_m

Global Moderator
Staff member
Joined
25 Jan 2012
Messages
5,191
Location
Eastleigh
I mix RO with tap water for aquarium, i am pretty sure our tap water has alot of Mg and calcium (it is not drinkable, that is why i have RO).
Never assume what is in your water, if you are using a water company report, it is for their test point on a particular day not your tap water. Altering to non EI dosing just leads to algae, oh as you have found.

Adding extra Mg, assuming your water has Mg, which as Darrel has said seems unlikely, has no downside (MgSO4 is not toxic to fish even in large doses) and MgSO4 is the cheapest ingredient, so always include this in EI dosing.

If your tap water is soft (again why are you using RO if you have soft water ?), you must harden up your water to at least 8dKH to give you some element of carbonate buffering. Either buy ready made remineralising salts or make your own.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/RO.htm

Seems like some of your issues may be too soft water and no Mg present, along with too long or too bright light for an immature tank.
 

Kuojne

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2019
Messages
20
Location
Lithuania
Allright, gotta go buy MgSO4 then.

I tested dKh with a test kit, my tap water has 14.2 dKh, and RO 2.3. My aquariums water dKh at the day of a water change is 12.2
Our tap water has a really bad taste, that is why it is undrinkable, you can feel the Iron and Calcium in our tap water.

But why does my Macro get cloudy at the bottom after 3 weeks? Is it because of karbons? Should i boil my RO then?
 

dw1305

Expert
Joined
7 Apr 2008
Messages
10,526
Location
nr Bath
Hi all,
Allright, gotta go buy MgSO4 then.
<"Epsom Salts"> should be available to you. Mg SO4.7H2O and ~10% Mg.
But why does my Macro get cloudy at the bottom after 3 weeks? Is it because of karbons? Should i boil my RO then?
You definitely don't need to boil the RO water. It might be phosphate precipitation, but that shouldn't happen with RO, do you use RO water to make up your macro solution? and have you tried an alternative soft water source? (rain-water would be my suggestion).
I tested dKh with a test kit, my tap water has 14.2 dKh, and RO 2.3
That is a strange one, your RO shouldn't have any dKH (or any of anything else).

In the UK we can get parameters for our tap water from the company that supplies it, but I'm not sure about in the rest of Europe.

Do you have a conductivity (TDS) meter? The conductivity of the tap water (and RO) would give us some idea of what the water is likely to contain.

cheers Darrel
 
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
H How to combat BBA? Algae 7
Hanuman Sudden onset of BBA and CaSO4 Algae 2
M Possible BBA and a host of questions Algae 177
Mr.Shenanagins BBA, what should I do next Algae 7
Mikeyd Is this BBA? Algae 16
T BBA changes Algae 2

Similar threads

Top