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Cheap T5 at my local hardware.

ceg4048 said:
Ady34 said:
..if we presume the wattage of both types of bulb are equal, and although the colour rendition may not be important, could the change in light spectrum 'throw' the plants a little, much like a change in c02 thus resulting in a transition period in which the algae could temporarily win the battle? Or is changing light the same as changes in water perameters whereby the plants dont really care?
Hi Ady,
Well it's not necessarily about equal wattage, it's about equal PAR. Bulbs of similar wattage may in fact have different PAR and this will affect the plant more so than spectrum. When someone makes a comparison of growth using different bulbs it's important that they are comparing apples to apples, unless they are specifically comparing the differences in PAR for different bulb types. So if you want to compare the effects of yellow light versus red light, then you have to ensure that the PAR is the same for both, and that way you will be seeing differences due to spectrum and NOT due to intensity. This is where people make false connections. For example, I can grow plants with simple Tesco incandescent light bulbs, but incandescent bulbs have a very poor PAR efficiency. They emit mostly heat as infrared. Most of the spectrum is in the yellow. and so only about 12% of the energy output is useful PAR, so this makes incandescent bulbs generally inadequate if we want rapid growth rates, but again, that's because of PAR limitation, not because of the yellow spectrum of these bulbs. Fluorescent tubes have a higher PAR efficiency, perhaps on the order of 25%-30%, Halides emit higher still, perhaps 40%.

Yellow light simply gets processed by a pigment that is different than chlorophyll. This energy is then transferred to the chlorophyll. Pigments such as Phycocyanin processes orange and red light, while a pigment such as Phycoerythrin processes blue-green to yellow. The plant simply analyzes the incident wavelengths and produces the pigments necessary to make use of the available wavelengths. This energy is passed on to the chlorophyll, and the chlorophyll reacts in the same way as if it were excited by it's own native blue and red excitation wavelengths. Plants have an arsenal of these auxiliary pigments to deal with any range of colors within the visible spectrum so they can't be "thrown off" just because your light is changed to yellowish or greenish. White light is composed of all colors, so the plant is already doing this conversion and already has these pigments in place. Since plants are descended from algae they have pretty much the same pigments as algae. Whatever light algae can use, plants can use. Whatever light plants can use, algae can use. The problem occurs in plants when you have too much PAR. That's when algae wins. They could each care less about colors. In fact, the main job of these pigments is to protect the plant from too much PAR, and they do this by filtering out and rejecting excess PAR and UV by fluorescing away the excess energy. This is what we see so often when plants "color up" in response to higher light intensity. The pigments become visible because they plant has to produce boatloads of them to deal with Klingon Photon Death Ray fanaticism. :thumbdown:

Cheers,
Cool, thanks Clive,
so really we all need PAR meters to more accurately assess our lighting range irrespective of colour renditions or indeed wattage rules. The plants dont care as long as the PAR ratings are within tolerance for available c02 & ferts.
ceg4048 said:
Carpet plants do not really care about normal versus abnormal T5. They care about flow and CO2. You'd better think about that and stop worrying about whether you have enough light. Going high tech does not mean going high light. It means going high CO2, high flow and high nutrition. Lights should be at the very bottom of your list of concerns right now.
I know this is slightly off topic too, but we know that 5w/g is the upper limit of lighting efficiency where plant fertiliser uptake rates max out, but is there a proven lowest light level for plant growth, whereby no amount of c02 availibility and ferts will compensate? Also with this in mind, is there a general concensus as to a suitable PAR range at substrate level for plants? .....and if you know, how much are PAR meters and do you measure PAR/are PAR measurements with or without the water in the tank? Sorry for this barrage of Q's
Thanks,
Ady.
 
Well, again, 5WPG happened to be the WPG in that persons tank, so we really don't know what the PAR actually was. Since WPG was an easier parameter to deal with at the time, that was the value reported in order to provide a good rule of thumb. Barr often suggests that clubs and forums initiate a "group buy" wherein everyone pitches in to buy a meter or two and they then share the meter. Once each person calibrates his/her lighting, a plot can be created using a spreadsheet formula. The Apogee MQ-200 with submersible probe is popular, and is a very easy tool to use. In Sterling, prices may be on the order of £200 hence the idea of a "group buy". There are other brands, just google for "PAR Meter" or "Quantum Meter". => http://omnima.co.uk/store/catalog/Apoge ... mAod40niwg

The lowest light level for plants is called the Light Compensation Point (LCP) which is discussed in viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2784

Barr recommends a target value of about 40 micromoles at the substrate, which is enough to grow any plant and may not neccessarily grow them quickly, but will keep most folks out of trouble. LCP for most species is below this value.

Cheers,
 
ceg4048 said:
Well, again, 5WPG happened to be the WPG in that persons tank, so we really don't know what the PAR actually was. Since WPG was an easier parameter to deal with at the time, that was the value reported in order to provide a good rule of thumb.
Doh, of course, its trying to difficult trying to get the wpg rule out of your head, i know its very unlikely, but i suppose he could have been using filament bulbs as discussed before! :lol:
Thanks again for the information, ill have a read through this
ceg4048 said:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2784
when i have some more time. :thumbup:
Cheers,
Ady.
 
I have a question.

which is better i put 2x 25W T5 OR i put 1 x50W t5

will they have the same effect?
 
19042012284.jpg

19042012286.jpg



How can you tell if this is a t5ho fixture or a t5no fixture?
 
Hi,
Sorry, I missed this. I'd always elect to go for the two dimmer bulbs, especially if I can operate them independently. That gives better control. You see, control is the issue. Uncontrolled lighting leads to many problems.

Also, you will get a better spread of the light using two bulbs, and you can mix and match different bulb colors to get the look you want. Two bulbs, hands down winner.

Cheers,
 
ceg4048 said:
Hi,
Sorry, I missed this. I'd always elect to go for the two dimmer bulbs, especially if I can operate them independently. That gives better control. You see, control is the issue. Uncontrolled lighting leads to many problems.

Also, you will get a better spread of the light using two bulbs, and you can mix and match different bulb colors to get the look you want. Two bulbs, hands down winner.

Cheers,

Hi Clive, that link didn't work mate, and I am interested in reading the thread. Can you have another go ? :)
 
Fixed the link but there is something wrong with the thread. It shows me as the OP and it's missing the actual OP's posts. It makes it look like I'm talking to myself, ranting and raving (which I do anyway, but you're not supposed to know that). I'll have to call Paulo to the rescue.

Cheers,
 
hey guys how can you tell if a fixture is t5ho or not?

i have one like ine the photo i posted above,,i have 2x24W t5 in it.
its written f24/t5 SUN-LUX 10000k on the bulb..
 
ceg4048 said:
Fixed the link but there is something wrong with the thread. It shows me as the OP and it's missing the actual OP's posts. It makes it look like I'm talking to myself, ranting and raving (which I do anyway, but you're not supposed to know that). I'll have to call Paulo to the rescue.

Cheers,

Lol, no you normally rant and rave at US ALL for being so dim, LOL. But we love you all the same :lol: I am sure Paulo will be on it :)
 
master3z said:
hey guys how can you tell if a fixture is t5ho or not?

i have one like ine the photo i posted above,,i have 2x24W t5 in it.
its written f24/t5 SUN-LUX 10000k on the bulb..
Really, I have no idea about High Output versus Normal Output. The fixture/ballasts seem to be the same but the bulbs sometimes have "HO" written on them. It wouldn't surprise me at all if it turns out that the Term "High Output" is just another marketing phrase. I mean, who wouldn't want to buy something that's rated "High" instead of merely "Normal", right? People go to university and get Master's degrees in Business Administration learning how to suck money out of your pockets with psychology. Just stick the bulb in and turn the lamp on. If it lights then you are OK and you don't need to worry about High versus Normal. As far as I'm concerned, it would be much better to have a dimmable ballast in the fixture so that you can control the lighting level, which is a much more useful technology than High-this or High-that.

Cheers,
 
if i try to pu an HO bulb on it,,will the ballast burn or get damage?
 
No, either the bulb contacts fit into the fixture, or it doesn't. Either it lights when you press the button or it doesn't. If it's an Electronic T5 ballast, which it should be, then you'll be fine.

This is a lot different than those clever folks who overdrive certain ballasts by re-wiring modifications to get it to produce more energy at the terminals. That might be what you're thinking of. But a 24 watt T5 bulb fits a 24 watt fixture regardless, unless it's a special vendors' bulb. So you can insert normal, high output, and even the new "high efficiency" bulbs and the ballast will just carry on.

Cheers,
 
But arent HO bulbs higher wattage ? Obviously they do put out more light compared to a tube the same size but NO.

Eg : a 2ft NO T5 is 14W whereas a a 2ft T5 HO is 24W
 
Hi all,
But arent HO bulbs higher wattage ? Obviously they do put out more light compared to a tube the same size but NO. Eg : a 2ft NO T5 is 14W whereas a a 2ft T5 HO is 24W
I've wondered about this as well. I put a 13W T5 and a 14W T5 of the same Kelvin rating next to one another, and there was no comparison between them, the 14W was much, much brighter, but if you put the 14W next to a 24W that difference was much less noticeable.

I now know this is to do with the ballasts, the 13W one is a 4W - 13W ballast, but the 14W does from 14W - 39W! <https://www.bltdirect.com/product.php?pid=6235> & <http://www.bltdirect.com/products.php?cat=567>

My suspicion would be that the 39W tube wouldn't actually be that much brighter than the 14W tube on a fixture with this particular HF ballast.

cheers Darrel
 
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