Co2 , I know nothing

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hey everyone, looking at getting Co2, however I am very confused by it all. In Australia Co2 for the planted tank isn't as popular as O/S from what I can tell, so getting all the bits together, well to say the least I am struggling.
So I know I need a regulator and ebay has these would they do the job

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Argon-CO2-Bubble ... 1c0fe28a4e

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Argon-CO2-Bubble ... 19b9a93dec

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ARGON-CO2-FLOWME ... 3efb3f005c
I am assuming the bubble flow meter work on the same principal as the Milwaukee Co2. Also one guage is that problematic
two gauges
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Tesuco-Co2-Gas-R ... 20af4b744a.

Any help in this would be very appreciated. cheers
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Well slowly making ground on Co2(I think).
First the regulator, I bought this today from a local place here in Melbourne along with a needle valve. Both the Regulator and the needle valve came to $109AU, which I thought was pretty good considering I have seen the same regulators listed up to $150AU. Best thing is they also have Co2 bottles you can buy and do refills there also. So very much one stop shopping which I like.


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CO2-NEEDLE-VALVE ... 439ce3c39b (mine looks as pictured)
With regard to the image below, mine has the same diagram and I am assuming that P is the input and A is the output. The information sheets that I was given state " You will be able to control flow accurately in one direction but not the other." Can anybody confirm my assumption ?

With the setup, as mine came with the barbs they recommend connection to the regulator with tubing.
There is though the solenoid to consider and also check valve and bubble counter.
These I am yet to work out
 

CeeJay

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Joined
3 May 2009
Messages
945
Location
Surrey UK
Hi tel

From my knowledge of pneumatic symbols I would say for your purposes P is the input and A is the output.
The diagram on your valve consists of 2 seperate symbols.
The top half, 2 curved lines with an arrow across them means that it is a restricted port and the arrow means it's adjustable.
The bottom half is the symbol for a non return valve. Just imagine feeding your gas in through port A. The ball lifts off it's seat and lets the gas flow through unimpeded and it's not adjustable.
So your assumption is correct :D .
Clever piece of kit for its size 8)
Hope that helps.
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
One more piece taken care of, inline diffuser, bought and waiting for shipping
a2b2_35.JPG

Biggest problem I am having is finding a solenoid and the check valve locally.
With regards to the solenoid is there anything in particular I should be noting or are they all very much the same?
cheers
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Flyfisherman said:
Tel, Have you bought your reg ? found this one with a solenoid valve attached.
Regards
Paul.
Thanks Paul, but yes already bought the reg, the one pictured couple of posts up. One of the main factors concerning me with buying a reg from the US or UK, was any differences relating to the thread size/pattern.

I figure at the end of the day the solenoid can always run inline if need be, so I am not too bothered about the thread and attaching directly to the reg, though it would be preferable.
cheers and thanks.
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hi all just a quick question with regards to drop checkers.
Is there any advantage over the Cal aqua double checker to the Dennerle Crystal line. The price I can get either at is comparable with less than ten dollars (au) difference between them.
cheers
 
Joined
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tel said:
Hi all just a quick question with regards to drop checkers.
Is there any advantage over the Cal aqua double checker to the Dennerle Crystal line. The price I can get either at is comparable with less than ten dollars (au) difference between them.
cheers
Purely cosmetic - they both do the same job - indicate Co2 levels within the water column, however the Cal aqua DC does looks better.

Have you seen these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chameleon-Drop-Ch ... 4ceb794108

I have a double DC - the idea is to obtain / match the colour of the indicator solution with the colour of the reference solution, my indicator solution colour is lighter in its colouration than the colour of the reference solution - so save your money and buy a single checker - unless you are colour blind as a single colour means nothing - then you need two colours to allow you to match them.

Regards
paul.
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Thanks Paul, I have taken your advice and bought the drop checker you provided a link to,

added a bubble counter as well
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Bubble-Counter-A ... 5202wt_941
So now it is just a 4dkh solution.
Well, there you have it, time flies, in the short space of a month all the bits and pieces for running Co2 have landed(barring DC & BC). So Tuesday will see me try and put them all together. :crazy:

*edit- On the subject of putting it all together, I have read various topics, some advocate connecting the solenoid to the reg and also connecting the needle valve to the solenoid. Others suggest running it all inline with tubing being the connecters.
Does this come down to personal preference or is there a benefit of one method over the other ?
cheers
 
Joined
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Location
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tel said:
Thanks Paul, I have taken your advice and bought the drop checker you provided a link to,

added a bubble counter as well
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Bubble-Counter-A ... 5202wt_941
So now it is just a 4dkh solution.
Well, there you have it, time flies, in the short space of a month all the bits and pieces for running Co2 have landed(barring DC & BC). So Tuesday will see me try and put them all together. :crazy:

*edit- On the subject of putting it all together, I have read various topics, some advocate connecting the solenoid to the reg and also connecting the needle valve to the solenoid. Others suggest running it all inline with tubing being the connecters.
Does this come down to personal preference or is there a benefit of one method over the other ?
cheers
Tel

personnally i would have them attached to the reg (if you can) if they are left handing or dangling around they might become damaged through being knocked. My spare JBL reg / solenoid valve were not joined and I managed to obtain an 1/8" BSP connector - shortened the overall lenghts of the threads add a bit of PTFE thread tape + added a special JBL connector adaptor and screwed all the components together - have look at the attached thread short cut.
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9811#p104886

Regards
Paul.

Regards
Paul
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Thanks again Paul, I appreciate your time. :thumbup:

I remember that thread and have gone over it again to refresh the details.

I have had a small experiment and tried to attach the needle valve to the solenoid ( ended up getting an aqua medic)

(sorry for the large images)
The "nipple" you can see on the solenoid, seems to inhibit connecting to the needle valve. I can only get one full turn before it hits the back of the block, which I doubt will be enough bite to prevent leaking.
So I intend on taking my kit to a fastening place nearby and hopefully they will have all the necessary adapters.
cheers and thanks again Paul
tel
 
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tel said:
Thanks again Paul, I appreciate your time. :thumbup:

I remember that thread and have gone over it again to refresh the details.

I have had a small experiment and tried to attach the needle valve to the solenoid ( ended up getting an aqua medic)

(sorry for the large images)
The "nipple" you can see on the solenoid, seems to inhibit connecting to the needle valve. I can only get one full turn before it hits the back of the block, which I doubt will be enough bite to prevent leaking.
So I intend on taking my kit to a fastening place nearby and hopefully they will have all the necessary adapters.
cheers and thanks again Paul
tel
Tel
Have you tried to rotate the the solenoid valve by 90 degree's - undo the four screws and turn the metal block around by 90 degree's and refit the screws, then the 1/8" bsp adaptor needle valve and so on.

Regards
Paul.
 

tel

Member
Joined
28 Sep 2009
Messages
120
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Sorry Paul my fault for the poor explanation.
The housing of the solenoid is ok and will need to be rotated so that aspect is under control.

It is actually the barb on the solenoid hitting the back wall of the needle valve after just one turn. I did think of just cutting it off, however the "flow hole" inside the needle valve is not central and sits high so the flow would be offset and as such be hampered due to such a small diameter opening on the solenoid.

I know what connecter I need now though, just a straight through 1/8th I am thinking, so hoping the bolt place has it.
Reg to solenoid may need a couple of connecters though, still mulling that one.

cheers
 
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Location
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Tel

Is the solenoid valve bi-directional, if it is a are you going try and place the needle valve underneath the electrical connect.



Took some finding but I found it.

One of these http://www.swelluk.com/aquarium/aquariu ... o-496.html will allow you fit the needle valve underneath the electrical connection and another one on the regulator - then everything is connected and there is nothing dangling all in a straight line.

Regards

Paul
 
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