Zeus.
Fertz Meister
Hi all
Fitted some DIY CO2 reactors APS EF to my 500L tank in August Twin reactors details. I fitted them post filter. Most of my hardware is in the cabinet so have plumb most of it. My Fluval FX6 using 25mm hoses which proved a challenge in the plumbing to keep the flow good. Water feed in at the top of the APS EF and out at the bottom.
Flow Diagram
The smallest pipe fitting is on the APS EF its 12mm on one of the connectors
Hence I did a bypass to keep the flow up. They work well with NO CO2 bubbles in tank yet I have a massive BPS rate. The WC drain/fill value is where I drain/fill the tank on WC day via a 20mm hose
I used BalBalls in my reactors which Cilve pointed out aren't the cheapest and there are cheaper options than can be used just as efficiently. Obviously I didnt change them as already had them
Had a quite look in one of them months ago and it looked pretty clean so I left it alone
and the months passed by. Five months later I thought I best clean them 
Took one off opened the lid
Looked pretty clean, but requardless of how it looked I scrub each Bioball individual
The colour of the water at the end
Needless to say I didnt bother cleaning the second reactor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why twin reactors- well it started from an idea I had a year ago that having twin solenoids would help control CO2 more efficiently, but at the time I was just getting into hobby and didnt even have a tank. I year on many changes along the way my current setup is working well and I have had Twin solenoids since the begining
Ive used them in various configurations with the aid of a pH controller (pH controller waste of money IMO but handy).
I basically have both CO2 inputs on at CO2 on time, one on high BPS (call that one trickle supply) and the other on Insane BPS ( I call that the Zeuster Booster).
When the pH drop gets close to the Target pH the Zeuster Booster goes off and stays off for rest of photoperiod. Takes about 50mins. Lights on 5-10mins later The trickle feed then maintains the pH drop and [CO2] very steady for rest of photoperiod (off 2hrs before lights off)
I did have an incident when the Zeuster Booster line didnt work and 3.5hrs later when CO2 had been on the target pH still hadden been reached with just the trickle feed on.
Just another approach to get a pH drop and maintaining it steady for the photoperiod for those interested.
Zeus
Fitted some DIY CO2 reactors APS EF to my 500L tank in August Twin reactors details. I fitted them post filter. Most of my hardware is in the cabinet so have plumb most of it. My Fluval FX6 using 25mm hoses which proved a challenge in the plumbing to keep the flow good. Water feed in at the top of the APS EF and out at the bottom.
Flow Diagram
The smallest pipe fitting is on the APS EF its 12mm on one of the connectors
Hence I did a bypass to keep the flow up. They work well with NO CO2 bubbles in tank yet I have a massive BPS rate. The WC drain/fill value is where I drain/fill the tank on WC day via a 20mm hose
I used BalBalls in my reactors which Cilve pointed out aren't the cheapest and there are cheaper options than can be used just as efficiently. Obviously I didnt change them as already had them
Had a quite look in one of them months ago and it looked pretty clean so I left it alone
and the months passed by. Five months later I thought I best clean them Took one off opened the lid
Looked pretty clean, but requardless of how it looked I scrub each Bioball individual
The colour of the water at the end
Needless to say I didnt bother cleaning the second reactor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why twin reactors- well it started from an idea I had a year ago that having twin solenoids would help control CO2 more efficiently, but at the time I was just getting into hobby and didnt even have a tank. I year on many changes along the way my current setup is working well and I have had Twin solenoids since the begining
Ive used them in various configurations with the aid of a pH controller (pH controller waste of money IMO but handy).
I basically have both CO2 inputs on at CO2 on time, one on high BPS (call that one trickle supply) and the other on Insane BPS ( I call that the Zeuster Booster).
When the pH drop gets close to the Target pH the Zeuster Booster goes off and stays off for rest of photoperiod. Takes about 50mins. Lights on 5-10mins later The trickle feed then maintains the pH drop and [CO2] very steady for rest of photoperiod (off 2hrs before lights off)
I did have an incident when the Zeuster Booster line didnt work and 3.5hrs later when CO2 had been on the target pH still hadden been reached with just the trickle feed on.
Just another approach to get a pH drop and maintaining it steady for the photoperiod for those interested.
Zeus
Last edited:
