DIY Project DIY ADA 60cm Tank and Stand Project

Tom

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Update!!!! :D

stand3.jpg


Inside painted with white gloss and outside with Dulux Midnight Jewels (note the door isn't done yet). It's getting its second coat today. Then I just need a trip to B&Q for some gatgets like a magnetic strip, and the door still needs straightening.

Getting there...

Tom
 

Ray

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I'm thinking to do something similar, I have a jigsaw, looks like I also need a router for the lap joints. Any advice on what type to get? I've never used one, no idea how they work even!

When you say you pin the panels do you also use wood glue? Do you use metal pins - i.e. nails, or the doweling ones?
 

Ray

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So you lap jointed just the top and bottom? Back panel is not lap jointed to the sides?

When you rout out the lap joints how deep do you go? I'm worried if you go too deep into the base it weakens its load bearing capacity once you put it on feet?

Also any reason to use plywood and not MDF - I'm thinking of doing what this guy did except for a 90cm tank. (Careful readers will notice a young George Farmer asking a simple question in this thread and getting told everything he knows about light in planted tanks to this day!)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/photo-album/18721-pjan-tank-dyi-amano-picture-warning-5.html

Any observations? (and quick - I'm off to get wood tomorow!)

Thank you
 

Tom

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The back is also routed to fit the sides, bottom and top. I routed half way in when I did it, so 6mm.

I used Plywood this time because last time I used MDF and it fell apart. Even after I sealed it, it still warped out of shape as water got in. I found the MDF easier to work with as it doesn't chip like Plywood but I prefer the Plywood for stand making despite it being more expensive.
 

Ed Seeley

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If you do use MDF I wouldn't rebate any joints. MDFs strength is only in compression and you have to make sure that all the weight is directly transfered to the upright, load bearing pieces in the cabinet. Plywood has greater strength in compression and tension.

As Tom said too, if water gets into MDF it can ruin it completely (depending on the grade used and the thoroughness of sealing it).

MDF can be used to make great cabinets, but you need to do it right!
 

Ed Seeley

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Lisa_Perry75 said:
Would marine ply be another option?

I hear its like both but is waterproof...

Marine ply is put together with waterproof glue, but so is exterior grade ply too so both will be ok if a little water gets on it. Plywoods are unlikely to warp too due to the way the grains are assembled at right angles (Unlike a real wood hood of mine that is curling nicely! :twisted: )
 

Ray

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Thanks Ed and Tom. I've gone for slabs of 22mm MDF, except, and here is my boo boo, I ordered the doors and front panel in 12mm. Now I see that for conceald hinges need you to bore a cup about 11mm deep.

So how am I to hang my doors? Or do I have to go back to the store and order thicker doors and then try to shave the extra thickness off my side panels - this is ADA look and currently everything fits together mm perfect.
 

Ed Seeley

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As Tom said you can get 'Surface Mounted Hinges' that don't need any rebating at all. You can also get some nice magnetic 'push to open' catches too so you don't need any handles!
 

Ray

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eds said:
As Tom said you can get 'Surface Mounted Hinges' that don't need any rebating at all. You can also get some nice magnetic 'push to open' catches too so you don't need any handles!

Brilliant - I'll look for those next time I go to the DIY shop (any DIY project for me needs 3 visits to the store to complete!). I'm taking photos as I go - if there is demand I could make a cookbook item on how to make an MDF stand.

If the finish is not perfect my wife won't let it in the living room so any advice on painting much appreciated! I'm thinking 2 coats of primer, 2 of gloss black, with sanding in between. Is there something special to preapre and seal MDF? Do you reccomend spray paints or just brush it on with a good quality brush? Is water based OK (less hassle, but MDF hates water)?

Also I've decided to buy a sander to help with the finishing - do I want a round orbital one, iron shaped goes into corners one or square one?

Tom - sorry to hog your thread, if you wish PM me and I'll get a mod to migrate me to another thread!
 

Tom

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Just checking here... the light unit I want to use has 3x 24w HO T5s (bulbs bought from lampspecs :D ). The tank is 60x40x40cm, so quite tall, and it comes to around 90 litres. I really want to try Aponogeton madagascariensis I think it is, and also Glosso for a carpet. Is this going to be enough light for the height of the tank? I really don't want leggy Glosso and the Aponogetons won't be cheap to replace! :lol:

Other plants I'm not as worried about (Fontinalis, Crypt balansae etc)

Cheers,

Tom
 

Themuleous

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3x24w should be plenty of light to grow glosso. You could grow anything under that much T5 lighting!

Sam

EDIT - the tank is also not very tall which will also help keep the glosso low.
 

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