Hi Darrel, maybe it is a nonsense, but can assume that dosing EI at higher doses will avoid Mg, K and Fe uptake problems in my GH21+, KH high, lots of Ca++ tank? In other words, adding more means more chances for making them available to plants?Hi all,
I'd definitely keep on dosing the magnesium sulphate (MgSO4.7H2O), one of the effects of having lots of calcium ions (Ca++) is that it interferes with uptake of Mg++ and K+ ions by the plant.
Other chelators are better at high pH levels, but I wouldn't worrry too much. Have a look here: <http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/chelated-fe.31529/#post-332352>
Jordi it is the ratio of Ca:Mg and Ca:K that leads to problems with uptake, but it is true that if you have high levels of all the cations these problems are lessened.Hi Darrel, maybe it is a nonsense, but can assume that dosing EI at higher doses will avoid Mg, K and Fe uptake problems in my GH21+, KH high, lots of Ca++ tank? In other words, adding more means more chances for making them available to plants?
Yes, that's exactly what we have to do in orange groves n my area, otherwise the leaves get yellowish. Concerning aquatic plants I have noticed lately that I have to dose a bit higher than the recommended EI values (I know EI standard values are just a reference, not something fix). If I use normal values the symptoms mentioned begin to appear: leaves yellowish with dark green veins. My co2 is right now very high and the flow quite good (thanks to this forum I'm a bit obsessed with this issue, tank rescaped to ensure a perfect circular flow all over the tank length). Not sure if it is a sign of nutrient shortage due to some kind of blocking in my very hard water or due to the fact I am achieving higher biomass than ever. Or probably both. Anyway I wanted to make sure that in case of chemical blocking, adding a surplus was a good strategy.Plants like Citrus may need foliar feeding with magnesium to counteract the effects of high soil calcium.
Hi mate. Your link doesn't breach rules, fluid sensor are also one of our sponsors.Hi Chka,
From my understanding, and I am sure others will correct my if I am wrong, the ADA soil should really be considered more like a storage container rather than a nutrient source. That's where the CEC level (Cation Exchange Capacity) comes in, i.e. how much of the nutrients your ADA soil can hold. I believe ADA soil is very high and so will hold a lot of nutrients. But you will need to constantly replenish the storage container, hence the required dosing. Having a higher CEC level means basically if you miss a dose or two of the ferts it won't matter as much as something with a lower CEC level such as "normal gravel."
For the dosing I always use the Nutrient Companies dosing calculator which can be found at the web address below (they link directly to Fluidsensoronline where you can buy the nutrients):
***I apologise now if I am not supposed to link to external websites. Moderators ; Please feel free to remove the link if it breaches rules***
I hope that helps. I am still new to the game but this is what I have learnt so far and as I say I am sure others will put me right if I am wrong.
Yes, this is wrong. Amazonia is extremely high in nutrient content. It is also clay which has a high CEC.From my understanding, and I am sure others will correct my if I am wrong, the ADA soil should really be considered more like a storage container rather than a nutrient source.
I'm a bit dubious about this. When I started keeping fish "aged water" was regarded as having all sorts of beneficial properties, and fish like Discus were impossible to keep. As soon as people started changing a lot more water Discus etc became a lot more keepable. A lot of the drinking water in the USA is very heavily chlorinated, and I think that is where a lot of this comes from.I ask because the fish I keep do not react well to water changes (Channa spp.), and I have to keep the frequency down as result of this.
You can add minimal amounts of fertiliser, either regularly as weekly 1/10 EI, or via something like the <"Duckweed Index">.Would it be safe to dose to1/4 of the recommended or something like that? I don't want to pollute the water with excess nutrients but I do the want the plants to do well.
You won't pollute the water with excess nutrients, fish can withstand 100's ppm of EI salts, but you will pollute the water with organic waste. The 50% weekly water change isn't just to "reset the nutrient levels" it is mainly to get rid of all the organic waste produced by the plants when running EI. If you don't remove the organic waste algae will have a field day eventually.Would it be safe to dose to1/4 of the recommended or something like that? I don't want to pollute the water with excess nutrients but I do the want the plants to do well.