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Everyone is right ...

Thanks for the analysis.

Given that in nature there is 'sunrise', it seems natural that the plant takes time to react to lights on and doesn't begin photosynthesising at the 'prime rate' immediately?

Wouldn't this then suggest that ramping lighting is good? If you go 100% light at the start, only the algae benefits if the plant takes time to "react" to 'sunrise'? For example, some plants are 'closed' in the dark and take time to open/spread out their leaves on lights on? 30minutes sounds good, rather than something grudgingly done?
Ramp is perfectly fine. But 4 hours and finding the perfect injection rate is much trickier since the co2 demand changes - the high injection needed later especially if compounded with high fertilizer Will stress fish early.

Overall it will be easier to dial it in with at most 30 minute ramp, yep. Since your injection rate should plummet by then and the plants should be going by then. They still photosynthesize the moment light hits and pearling should start soon thereafter but the prime rate I meant was a massive suck up of co2.

Because purigen is so 'fine', putting some floss before purigen prevents purigen from being blocked up too soon? If you only have coarse sponge, purigen and no floss, the purigen essentially starts acting like a fine filter floss?
Yep, good idea. Debated not adding filtration in but just did. Don’t need purigen either just put it since it will minimize organic stress.

Thanks!!

Josh
 
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If you can, aim for sacred
Ca:K:Mg -- 3:2:1
Hi @JoshP12

Do you or anyone else know where this Golden Ratio comes from? I've recently been taking a close look at a Table (VII-2) that appears in Ecology of the Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad. In there, she lists two columns - one having the Critical Concentrations of each element for Elodea occidentalis and a second column giving the average measured nutrient concentrations of three of Ms. Walstad's own aquatic plants. The data presented in these two columns results in a Ca:K:Mg ratio of 3:8:1 and 1.4:7:1, respectively. I invite everyone to check and confirm these figures if you own Ms. Walstad's book. I will also re-check my figures.

JPC
 
Hi @JoshP12

I guess one explanation may simply be that there is a difference between the critical and optimum concentrations. But what's the explanation for Diana Walstad's plants?

JPC
 
I do not know too much about the specifics that makes PAR meters so expensive...
Hi @MichaelJ

I suspect the reason for PAR sensors being expensive is because they tend to be aimed at professional markets - environmental monitoring and horticulture/agriculture come to mind. They are not aimed at hobbyists in general. As far as the electronics are concerned, careful layout is important so as not to be prone to interference. Then, there's the optics. And, sealing against water ingress although there is the option of using a fibre optic link from the tank to an external transimpedance amplifier.

JPC
 
Hi @JoshP12

Do you or anyone else know where this Golden Ratio comes from? I've recently been taking a close look at a Table (VII-2) that appears in Ecology of the Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad. In there, she lists two columns - one having the Critical Concentrations of each element for Elodea occidentalis and a second column giving the average measured nutrient concentrations of three of Ms. Walstad's own aquatic plants. The data presented in these two columns results in a Ca:K:Mg ratio of 3:8:1 and 1.4:7:1, respectively. I invite everyone to check and confirm these figures if you own Ms. Walstad's book. I will also re-check my figures.

JPC
First, I have no idea (and asked the same question myself), but I can guess.

I checked out the table, it looks like it comes from by-weight analysis and this means that under those growing conditions (with access to column and root under her particular water chemistry) these plants were driven to this particular ratio. I am not so sure we can extrapolate that this fundamental ratio will extend to all conditions. For example, consider someone running a ketogenic diet: if I remember correctly, one thing that the body does to respond is to create more mitochondria in the brain to utilize the sugar that is available in the bloodstream while many of the other cells adapt to utilizing ketones. This means the demand on N/P/K/micros in our body is going to also change, I reckon.

What I can say is this: Ca at 30 probably gives enough of a stabilizing buffer so that when we haphazardly dose our ferts and provide our pseudo-decent substrates with inferior microbiological diversity, the plant doesn't get "doped too bad" ... then Mg and K seem to work well at these ratios ... being golden, I am not surprised. Ca:K at 1.61 and K:Mg .61 ... will yield pure gorgeousness of some of the most demanding (unable to adapt to a wide array of conditions) plants.

Natural waters don't need this because the roots and substrate are working together and the roots get everything they need for that environment under the particular water column chemistry ... OR the plant simply dies and we don't see it in those conditions ... so it can't adapt and natural selection prevails.

Josh
 
Upon reflection, there is one issue with too much surface agitation … diffusion of light.

Wet/dry with return with minimal agitation trumps all.

If you have good hardware for co2, then perhaps ease that agitation and don’t run 2 lights, just one(or still use 2!!! But get more for them!!) - hah — it really is balance since surface agitation let’s higher injection rate but low surface agitation with high light will yield a similar buffer.

obviously, shallow tank circumvents this.

It really is design thinking.

The nice thing is that the framework explains why these things influence the system … interestingly as we stray away from salts and into hardware we realize that optimizing hardware means optimizing the two most important resources: light and co2.

those resources allow the column to stay clean, as a resulting alleviating the issues posed by an “unbalanced” water column, chemically speaking.

neat.
 
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Do you or anyone else know where this Golden Ratio comes from? I've recently been taking a close look at a Table (VII-2) that appears in Ecology of the Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad. In there, she lists two columns - one having the Critical Concentrations of each element for Elodea occidentalis and a second column giving the average measured nutrient concentrations of three of Ms. Walstad's own aquatic plants. The data presented in these two columns results in a Ca:K:Mg ratio of 3:8:1 and 1.4:7:1, respectively. I invite everyone to check and confirm these figures if you own Ms. Walstad's book. I will also re-check my figures.
Hi Everyone,

Does anyone else have any information/advice/thoughts about the optimum [Ca]:[K]:[Mg] ratio?

JPC
 
Hi Everyone,

Does anyone else have any information/advice/thoughts about the optimum [Ca]:[K]:[Mg] ratio?

JPC
Hi @jaypeecee The ratios you quote from Ecology of the Planted aquarium VII-2 page 105 looks correct to me as well (I get 2.8:8:1 and 1.4:6.8:1)....
I do not know the significance of this plant analysis (not water analysis) and how that would translate into how we condition our tank water with respect to Ca K and Mg dosing - but would like to know more as well.
Cheers,
Michael
 
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The ratios you quote from Ecology of the Planted aquarium VII-2 page 105 looks correct to me as well (I get 2.8:8:1 and 1.4:6.8:1)....
I do not know the significance of this plant analysis (not water analysis) and how that would translate into how we condition our tank water with respect to Ca K and Mg dosing - but would like to know as well.
Hi @MichaelJ

I'll link @Zeus. at this point. He has done a lot of work investigating plant nutrients and optimum ratios. Perhaps he can shed some light (pun intended) on this. And it would be interesting to see how well the optimum plant nutrient ratio aligns with the needs of our livestock.

JPC
 
I just use Ca:Mg in 3:1 ratio at water change. levels drop through out week and replenished at water change. never had any issues with it so far. not much consideration to K levels, just dosing 20ppm K per week.
 
I just use Ca:Mg in 3:1 ratio at water change. levels drop through out week and replenished at water change. never had any issues with it so far. not much consideration to K levels, just dosing 20ppm K per week.
I am doing Ca:Mg at about 3:1 as well and plants and livestock are fine with that. There was a recent comment by @ceg4048 about the insignificance of ratios. In an aquatic environment I suppose it only really matters that the nutrients are there and readily available for the plants - kind of makes sense compared to the more static environment of terrestrial soil - but that is probably not the reason why it is so. I would like to know more about this though.
Cheers,
Michael
 
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He has done a lot of work investigating plant nutrients and optimum ratios
Well I have done quite a bit on the IFC Calculator esp with the 'beta' ReminCalculator I have put together. You need to use a Ca:Mg ratio and the default ratio is 3:1. Plus been able to 'crack' more commercial remineralisers also supplying the Ca:Mg:K ratio where I can. It was a bit of a leap of faith when I choose to drop ppm and go for dGH and dKH and slip in ratios, it was a eureka moment when it all worked
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As to a 'magic ratio' between any of the elements our plants need I am agnostic about, one of my theory's is that ratios is like looking at clouds in the sky and seeing human faces- you will find some but they are meaningless. before I moved the tap water I got had about 140 ppm Ca and 5ppm Mg so do we correct the ratio to 3:1, then do we extend it to cover the Ca:Mg:K ratio, then what about the N: P:K ratio, trying to balance a Ca:Mg:K: P:N is 🤯

PlantBrain -T Barr, went on about ratios quite a bit a noticed from his historical post, then all goes quite about ratios which makes me think he also became agnostic about them when he had water with low Ca relative to the Mg and his plants still did fine.

Liebig's law seems to fit well IMO, the presence of ratios is 'faces in clouds'
 
Hi all,

two things I should add:
1) I just want to clarify that I never said ratios are important. I claimed nutrients interact via Coulomb’s law. EDIT: not only nutrients … plants polarize their leaves to enable co2 acquisition … everything interacts
2) my suggestion to obey the 3:2:1 ratio with GH around 5 was to yield the highest probability of success.

obviously you can grow plants out of these parameters - I do. So does nature.

BUT again it doesn’t matter what our experience is unless we can validate it —— WHY?!?! The plant tops it up from substrate. This framework explains why ratios are not as important when viewed as an entire system.

i reckon that plants grow in inert substrate require more attention to water parameters and/or more water changes.

edit: and we need to be clear that there exists many ratios in the system: substrate, water column, in the plant, at each moment in time of the dynamic plant system (I.e. metabolic demand changes). They are living so they change and their demands and needs change. During the alternation of generations, I reckon the demand on nutrients changes as ours does as we age. As plant shades etc. Redistribution of nutrients. Where the mobile nutrient went - that’s a ratio of what can be given what can’t where did it get it from —- it adapts. But this is irrelevant if it cannot acquire what it actually needs from the column/substrate - so we provide optimal conditions to facilitate nutrient delivery.

Josh
 
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I think this comment by @X3NiTH provides a helpful insight to the Ca:Mg ratio discussion.
Totally. It illustrates what plant tissue requires - we need not provide anything out of what is needed. It is almost the meta of Leidbig, a lens into a potential true "ceiling".

But we are allowed ... and if we do, the plant may be able to move that where it is needed. For example, suppose that PO4 is needed in the leaf and it is absent of the column ... but it is present at the root ... well let's go ahead and transport it. Conversely, suppose that PO4 is needed for root developement but your substrate is inert ... load the column with PO4 and have the leaves move it down: do this on start up and voilla rapid root growth ... hurrying your establishment. Remember, you force feed phosphate via the plant leaf pathways I linked in my first post. Force feed phosphate ... through the column ... drive demand of all nutrients ... BOOM super fast establishment -- provided everything is provided.

EDIT: Try this with Potassium and what happens? Nothing. Why are ADA plants smaller than EI plants (despite feeding EI levels of K --- yet their growth rates are nearly identical: substrate tops off the rest)? Because the plant can moderate potassium - but potassium is essential in activating photosynthesis ... specifically in enzymatic activity. We cannot withold it - that's why even in low GH, most people dose at least 15 K ... but some don't ... and those that don't it is ok! Because the plant tops itself off from substrate OR we simply reduce the demand by ensuring that potassium is not the limiting nutrient ... make it nitrogen -- and this isn't coincidence -- Amino acids are the structural building blocks of all protein ... despite Phosphate driving ATP ... we need proteins first to build the organelles. As such, limit N and voilla you can keep K above the Leidbig ceiling. But you can MORE easily induce deficiency in this way -- forget to feed your fish and you can induce algae if your substrate runs out -- why? Because if you overfeed you drive demand via N availability. Simple. So you are on a tight rope between feeding and not feeding. But can potassium affect nutrient acquisition? Certainly, it is a positively charged species and as such repels other postive stuff and attracts negative stuff (organics)... the more stuff the more tug o war ... but perhaps the plant can accomodate ... of course it can ... by polarizing leaf, using pathways, growing a certain way ... blah blah blah ... take all these things and this is why twisting is associated with "potassium deficiency" ... unless it is topped up from substrate .... aha this is the crux of why "some people say excess works or it doesn't" -- Think I went on a rant. Sorry about that! But let's keep going ... Given a plant species, there will be a unique value (relative to ALL parameters in question) such that the effects of Coulomb is "masked" and can be misinterpreted as "just leidbig driving everything". Try it. Pull a nutrient from your dosing and watch the tank crash ... each plant crashes at different rates. -- The easiest is to just stop turning on CO2 for two days, you can immediately see which ones demand more CO2 than the others (whether that is free CO2 in the column OR the pH that facilitates CO2 acquisition) ... THIS will be different based on your KH. BUT this won't be true if you use low light ... it will take you two weeks to notice anything -- compound this with low temperatuer and it may take even longer (WHY - it requires longer to use up the stores from your previous feeding) ---- NOTE: My "days" 2 days and 2 weeks are approximates and completely meaningless. Last one: So why advocate for higher values of light, because the system as a whole benefits more ... but this is ALSO dependent on our goals as a fishkeeper; so at times, low light is suitable and other times high light is.

But what happens when hobbyist attempt to grow plants under .3 Ca and .1 Mg in the column with inert substrate.

Or 300 Ca and 100 Mg ... with inert substrate.

Both cases, it isn't going to work well.

Why? Because there is an assumption that what you put in the water actually makes it into the plant. And this assumption is the crux of the argument between common ideologies of the hobby. This is why we cannot quote Leidbig in the absence of Coulomb and we cannot quote Coulomb in the absence of Leidbig. And if we think on this, we will realize something (and I will come out and say it):
1) EI = Leidbig
2) Anti-EI = Coulomb

We've missed it. Coulomb facilitates acquisition. Leidbig dictates acquisition.

Moreover, if you throw an active substrate into the mix, then perhaps the plant can top up any short comings and grow ... for the first few months and then the tank crashes. This is a regularly reported phenomena by people in the hobby and often they throw out substrate and start again ... but why then can people grow in inert (here's the crux ... they do 3x weekly water change and load up to perfect targets by percent each time ... this will obviously work and it can be illustrated by this framework --- suppose on the other hand that you have far too many species in that same tank ... then it will fail - UNLESS you pick plants appropriately to grow together).



Josh

EDIT: Need to add that substrate masks our inadequacies to providing optimal water conditions catered to each species and it's unique ability to acquire nutrients. It masks the effects of Coulomn, since it provides a bank of nutrients for the plant to access at all times --- but we can't assume it's free -- if the nutrients aren't within a range of acquisition for roots, then it won't work. Now OF COURSE the plant can adapt how it acquires nutrients from its roots and THIS will very likely influence the microbiology that grow around the root facilitating nutrient motion into plant tissue -- it's absolutely remarkable -- this is equivalent to different plant forms under different water column conditions that facilitate nutrient acquisition and CO2 acquisition at leaf (and generally shoot tissue) interface.
 
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my aging PC is having a 'go-slow funny half hour'!
Hi @jaypeecee ... is that what it is called ? :) My relatively new iMac is doing that regularly... so it's not just an old PC thing :)
Hi @MichaelJ

I suspect the reason for PAR sensors being expensive is because they tend to be aimed at professional markets - environmental monitoring and horticulture/agriculture come to mind. They are not aimed at hobbyists in general.
Very true. Low volume usually equals high price...

Cheers,
Michael
 
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