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Filter media, flow and algae

idris

Member
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3 Jan 2011
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816
Location
Herts
To combat a BBA problem, I'm looking at my filtration and aiming to improve flow.
Having read comments from the UKAPS gurus, I'm planning to remove the ceramic tube type bio-media from one of my external filters. (The other just has sponges.)
I've read that "organics" (what ever that amorphous term means) can contribute to algae problems.
I have a kg of Fluval Zero-Carb ("super activated zeolite/ carbon mix") that isn't being used, and which claims to remove "organic contaminents".

I suspect the carbon won't be good for flow, but might it be worth having in a filter to deal with "organics"?
I also have a load of spare filter floss.

Any thoughts on whether the carbon or floss would be worth using?
 
Hi all,
To combat a BBA problem, I'm looking at my filtration and aiming to improve flow
I get BBA in <"high flow areas"> (and on exposed sponges), my guess is that this is because both these areas don't get any snail grazing.
I've read that "organics" (what ever that amorphous term means) can contribute to algae problems.
It is just an unknown, I personally think that Staghorn (<"Compsopogon caeruleus">) is associated with increased levels of organic pollution. We have both <"BGA (cyanobacteria)"> and <"BBA threads"> that look at this in some detail.
I suspect the carbon won't be good for flow, but might it be worth having in a filter to deal with "organics"?
My guess is that it won't make any difference, but that is just a guess.

cheers Darrel
 
i think carbon will remove the helpful things you add in the water for the plants...
No, this isn't really true. Activated carbon does more good than harm because it has a high affinity for the Dissolved Organic Compounds that the OP is concerned about and has only a low affinity for trace elements.
I've read that "organics" (what ever that amorphous term means) can contribute to algae problems.
To make the term more concrete and less amorphous, think about dissolved urine, foul odors, fecal products as well as sugars and other carbohydrates - and the things they become when bacteria break them down. These are all pollutants that are problematic for fish and plants as they typically result in the reduction of dissolved oxygen levels in the water through bacterial action.
I suspect the carbon won't be good for flow, but might it be worth having in a filter to deal with "organics"?
I also have a load of spare filter floss.
You can accomplish your goal or reduced organics by simply changing the water regularly.
Activated carbon will fill up with these products because they are constantly being produced in the tank. Then you'll have to replace it every few weeks. The carbon becomes a great bio-media after it's filled but you'd still want to clean the filter because all you would have done is to move the pollution from the tank to the filter, which is still in contact with the water.
There is no substitute for water changes (and filter cleaning).

Cheers,
 
Fluval Zeo-Carb looks like it has less than 50% Carbon, the rest being Zeolite. but noted that you already have it (i.e. if you were choosing between buying 100% carbon or Cab-Zeo mix, it seems that the former is better unless you need the Zeolite?)

From what I've read, Zeolite won't be useful in a planted aquarium with 0 Ammonia?

As I have a tank with old substrate, I've started doing weekly 60% WC instead of 50% with substrate vaccuuming, on the basis that a bigger water change will remove a little more 'dissolved organics'
 
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Thanks all.
Increasing water changes would be a challenge: it's a 250L tank and I aim to change 40+L every week.

@ceg4048 If carbon would move "organics" to the filter, is there an easy way to remove them from the carbon?

@dw1305 Do you recommend any particular snails? I have Ottos, Amanos and Cherries, but they're not upto the job at the moment. 🙄
 
Increasing water changes would be a challenge: it's a 250L tank and I aim to change 40+L every week.
I’d go much higher than that. Is there any reason why you can’t change 50 percent?

Personally I believe water changes are one of the best ways of combating many issues we have in an aquarium including fish health. I’d be inclined to up it to 50 percent twice a week with spot dosing with easy carbon to get rid of the existing bba, Has always worked for me.

Cheers
 
I’d be inclined to up it to 50 percent twice a week with spot dosing with easy carbon to get rid of the existing bba,
That's 500L of water to shift each week. I'm not saying it's not possible, it's just not trivial either.
 
Hi all,
@dw1305 Do you recommend any particular snails?
I have MTS (Melanoides tuberculata), Ramshorn (Planorbella duryi) and Tadpole (Physella acuta) snails in all the tanks. They all form self sustaining populations and none of them eat plants. If I only kept one snail it would probably be the Planorbella.

cheers Darrel
 
That's 500L of water to shift each week. I'm not saying it's not possible, it's just not trivial either.
You should try get a system in place that makes it as easy as possible otherwise they become a massive pain and a chore.

Ages ago I used to carry buckets around everywhere but now just use a siphon to get the water out and a pump to get the water back in. It used to be even easier when I was using tap water, simply connect the hose to the kitchen mixer and away you go.

Cheers
 
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You should try get a system in place that makes it as easy as possible otherwise they become a massive pain and a chore.
I have a carefully thought out system of valves and hoses that use one of my canisters to pump in and out. It's still half a ton / 5 baths. 🤣
 
They all form self sustaining populations and none of them eat plants. If I only kept one snail it would probably be the PlPlanorbella.
A self sustaining population will be interesting with the current Assasin snails. I'd better go for some bigguns! 🙄🤣
 
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