Fluval plant 3.0 for high tech

Melv85

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12 Jun 2020
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Hi,

I’ve seen a few post about this light, some for low tech, others for one light vs another.

Well, I have a high tech set up, and have already purchased this light (used to use t5’s, this is the one new thing I’ve treated myself to since starting back up)

My tanks 12 inches deep,
Already I’ve found I need to raise it to get a better spread, and am questioning the light cycle, and intensity.

anyone got any thoughts/experience with this.

thanks
 

oreo57

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19 Jun 2020
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USA
Hi,

I’ve seen a few post about this light, some for low tech, others for one light vs another.

Well, I have a high tech set up, and have already purchased this light (used to use t5’s, this is the one new thing I’ve treated myself to since starting back up)

My tanks 12 inches deep,
Already I’ve found I need to raise it to get a better spread, and am questioning the light cycle, and intensity.

anyone got any thoughts/experience with this.

thanks

First thing is you need to supply more information like distance from light face to substrate? What wattage in tubes are you replacing?
How wide is the tank/light?

Then what are you running the channels at now?
some data on a 48" assumed to be un at 100% and 12" is from light to surface not 12" in the tank.
 

Melv85

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12 Jun 2020
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Hi @oreo57
Thanks for the reply.

The light is the fluval plant 3.0 32w (the 2 foot version) and it’s only 2 inches wide.

The tank is 24 inches wide,
18 inches front to back,
And 12 inches deep.

As it sits right now, the light is hung 5 inches above the tank, and there around 3 inches of substrate in there.
So around 14 inches above substrate
(5inches air and 9 inches water)

I’ve adjusted the light a few times recently (probably not the best thing I know)
But right now it sits at

70% red,
5% blue,
75% cool white,
68% pure white,
70% warm white.

It’s on for 7 hours with an hour sunset and sunrise.


I’m guessing the different length give out roughly the same, just over a larger area?
Is that distance to water surface or substrate surface?

Thanks again
 

oreo57

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19 Jun 2020
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USA
Because of diode overlap, the larger the fixture the larger the PAR, at least in the middle zone..
Think the measurements above are light to surface.
For you I'd then split the difference between 12 and 18.. and assume dead center.
another chart. messy but a lot of data. Think it was a 48" light.
considering the 24" has about 1/2 the lumens you may want to guess at about 1/2 the PAR. Not very accurate but should get you a ballpark figure.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1236089-fluval-plant-spectrum-led-new-model-3.html
 

Nick72

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21 Apr 2020
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Location
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi @oreo57
Thanks for the reply.

The light is the fluval plant 3.0 32w (the 2 foot version) and it’s only 2 inches wide.

The tank is 24 inches wide,
18 inches front to back,
And 12 inches deep.

As it sits right now, the light is hung 5 inches above the tank, and there around 3 inches of substrate in there.
So around 14 inches above substrate
(5inches air and 9 inches water)

I’ve adjusted the light a few times recently (probably not the best thing I know)
But right now it sits at

70% red,
5% blue,
75% cool white,
68% pure white,
70% warm white.

It’s on for 7 hours with an hour sunset and sunrise.


I’m guessing the different length give out roughly the same, just over a larger area?
Is that distance to water surface or substrate surface?

Thanks again

Hi @Melv85 - I think you are fine with your current settings.

I would leave it alone for two weeks, observe your plant growth or any algae growth after the two weeks, then adjust accordingly.
 

Melv85

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12 Jun 2020
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Location
Isle of wight
Hi ya guys,
Sorry for late reply, gone back to work, and things are abit hectic.
Thanks for the replies
@oreo57 & @Nick72


@oreo57
Defo a lot of info in the table, Think I understand it.
So if all lights were at 100% at 16inches it would equal roughly 45 par directly below, then drops of loads with the offset, which is the angle or inches?
Where it’s raised to get the spread, and the unit being so narrow, there must be a massive difference between the centre and front and back.



@Nick72
I had those setting running since we spoke, guess it was probably a week or so ago now.
Stems seam to doing ok, and staying healthy at the top, with the bottoms browned, but the carpet (Monte Carlo) has browned and done nothing really, not hugging the floor at all.
So wondering if it’s enough?

All Sorts of algae all over the place.

Also now my regs gauge has started pulsing on the set pressure side, it’s quite old now, but it’s a jbl one, was cheap in the day. Any thoughts?
 

oreo57

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Location
USA
Defo a lot of info in the table, Think I understand it.
So if all lights were at 100% at 16inches it would equal roughly 45 par directly below, then drops of loads with the offset, which is the angle or inches?
Where it’s raised to get the spread, and the unit being so narrow, there must be a massive difference between the centre and front and back.
Yes inches.. 0,3,6,9" radius from center.


Also now my regs gauge has started pulsing on the set pressure side, it’s quite old now, but it’s a jbl one, was cheap in the day. Any thoughts?
Breaking
 

Nick72

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21 Apr 2020
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Location
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi @Melv85

If the pressure gauge is pulsing it sounds like your regulator needs either servicing or replacing.

From the photo your DC is a good yellow - as long as it's like that for the whole photo period you have enough CO2.

Again from the photo you have a lot of C02 bubbles, but what's concerning, as mentioned by @Siege is the bubbles caught in the film at the surface.

Looks likes you don't have enough surface agitation. I would look to fix this otherwise you will not have enough oxygen in the tank for healthy plant growth.

Can you adjust your filter output to increase surface agitation? Adding a skimmer to the filter intake is always helpful.

It looks like you have good growth from the photos, but the Monte Carlo is reaching for the lights, which is a sure sign it's not getting enough light.

I would recommend turning up your lights, but then you mention lots of algae - which is normally a sign your lights are too high.

I can't really see much algae in the photos, can you describe what you are seeing?
 

Melv85

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12 Jun 2020
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Location
Isle of wight
Evening guys,
Thanks for the replies.

@oreo57
Thought so, still not sure if I get it, it’s got 2 different sets of results for the fluval, but going of that, it’s says at 16 inches high, and 9 inches offset gives 5 par? Which is nothing I’m guessing?
No wonder the Monte Carlos stretching lol.

What sort of par am I after?

@Siege & @Nick72
The gas was on I’m running an inline diffuser, there is abit of a build up by the end of the cycle.
I do have surface movement, maybe not enough?
I do have a Eheim skim 350, which I ran for a little while but was worried it was sucking in too much air and gassing the co2 off?

Hi @Melv85

It looks like you have good growth from the photos, but the Monte Carlo is reaching for the lights, which is a sure sign it's not getting enough light.

I would recommend turning up your lights, but then you mention lots of algae - which is normally a sign your lights are too high.

This is my whole dilemma,
Same as the stems, seam really brown and sad at the bottom, then when they get to about 4 inches high they start looking healthy. . . Ish lol.

I cut the Monte Carlo right back the other night, let it go again, see what it does.


There is little bits off bba about, not too worried about that, as I’ve been adjusting co2, trying to get a more constant level.
Then there bits of green spot, some form of hair Algae, maybe staghorn too, And diatoms.

I’m dosing full ei ferts (apfuk) but on a four day cycle then water change.

I’ll try and get some more pics once the co2’s off for
The night.



Shout out to @Hogan

Hi
You probably have a leak somewhere!
hoggie

I was ready to get another reg but thought I’d dunk all the components in water before I outlay a couple of hundred quid, and the special check valve from co2 art, Which was quite expensive for a check valve was leaking. So whipped that out and it’s stable again 😃 👍🏼


Thanks again guys,
Your advise/input is very much appreciated
 

Siege

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Cambridgeshire, UK
Probably not the check valve leaking, more likely tubing not pushed in hard enough or not cut straight KH enough. I know I’ve done it! 😂

check out dennis wong on YouTube, 2 excellent videos on co2.
 

Melv85

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Probably not the check valve leaking, more likely tubing not pushed in hard enough or not cut straight KH enough. I know I’ve done it! 😂

check out dennis wong on YouTube, 2 excellent videos on co2.


You could be right there @Siege,
As soon as I saw the bubbles, I whipped it straight out, might have to have a look, although without it it’s not causing any issues . . . . . . At the mo lol.


Thanks I’ll check it out mate 👍🏼
 

alto

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24 Dec 2014
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seam really brown and sad at the bottom, then when they get to about 4 inches high they start looking healthy. . . Ish lol.
You want to remove those old melted/unhealthy leaves - snails, shrimp will help but if most plants are showing signs of leaf damage, then get your scissors out and trim
:)

I’d trim the stems and replant the healthy growing tips, removing the lower portions - depending on setup, just trim to substrate and/or remove completely

You mention tank height of 30 cm - the Fluval 3.0 will certainly provide sufficient substrate PAR at this distance to grow most plants (I can’t think of any common aquarium plants that would require additional lighting)

As you’ve noted, it does struggle to provide light across the 45cm front to back width of the tank (and as you’ve discovered, increasing height above water surface improves that spread) - a Twinstar would’ve done this better - so I’d run the 3.0 at maximum intensity and adjust the height above the tank to increase light distribution across the tank
Rather than focusing on percentage RGB etc, look at the watts (& intensity) provided by these LEDS (with Fluval you’ll be lucky to obtain watt/LED type information, but actual LED manufacturer number would provide intensity, eg, same w LED may have different intensity) and choose the spectrum accordingly

Also look at the positioning of the LEDs across the 60cm fixture length, as the “dark” edge may be a couple to several cm’s at each end

To combat algae, daily physical removal and at least 50% daily water changes

Depending on livestock etc, you might also use Seachem Excel or peroxide (check additional ingredients before using in an aquarium) to spot treat algae

For example
 

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