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Green thread algae

Jaap

Jaap

Member
Joined
30 Sep 2011
Messages
1,068
Location
Nicosia
Hello,

I have a 20L low tech tank planted with anubias and cryptoscorines. I do not make water changes and I just top up the evaporated water. Its substrate is clay based, 4 Rummy Nose Tetras, dosing low levels of EI and the light is NEVER on. All the light it gets is from ambient light in from the room and never direct sunlight. I have some green thread algae, not much but its there.

Any suggestions?

Regards.
 
If theres not much there, you can simply run your fingers and remove it. Thats the quick and easy short term.
However its best to address the problem for the long term solution.
 
Amano shrimp will just not tackle the problem...it will merely remove the symptoms but its a choice....

I believe water changes will fluctuate CO2 contents and this will cause algae in my opinion and according to Tom Barr...

Anyone else?
 
That depends. What is the root cause afflicting your tank that is actually bothering you? If it is just the algae then a palliative solution is just as good as a causal one. I agree that it may be preferable to get at the root of the problem for mental piece of mind though, assuming this is possible.
 
I am trying to understand why would green hair algae grow in a low light tank, with plenty of nutrients and no CO2 fluctuations. What might be the reasons?
 
Hi all,
Jaap said:
I am trying to understand why would green hair algae grow in a low light tank, with plenty of nutrients and no CO2 fluctuations. What might be the reasons?
Click to expand...
I think there are 2 main points, one is that you will have considerable fluctuations in CO2 through the photo-period, as the plants utilise the available CO2 dissolved in the water column, you can minimise this by having a large gas exchange surface, so that both oxygen and CO2 levels will more closely mirror atmospheric gas levels. Having said that personally I'm not convinced that "fluctuating CO2 levels cause algae".

The second point is the kind of algae, green algae ("Chlorophyta" <Chlorophyta - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia>), have the same photosystems and photosynthetic pigments as all the higher plants, and to recognise this they are usually now combined into the clade "Viridiplantae" <Viridiplantae - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia>
Green plants as defined here includes a broad assemblage of photosynthetic organisms that all contain chlorophylls a and b, store their photosynthetic products as starch inside the double-membrane-bounded chloroplasts in which it is produced, and have cell walls made of cellulose <Green plants>
Click to expand...
One end result of this is that conditions that are suitable for the growth of the mosses, ferns and higher plants you want, are also suitable for the thread algae you don't want.
Jaap said:
. I do not make water changes and I just top up the evaporated water. Its substrate is clay based, 4 Rummy Nose Tetras, dosing low levels of EI
Click to expand...
I've got a few concerns here as well, I'd definitely add some water changes, at the moment the TDS will just carry on rising. We've had a few threads on this <Fish health in relation to no water changes in low tech tanks. | UK Aquatic Plant Society> & <Hair algae - I'm now at a loss! | UK Aquatic Plant Society>, but personally I'm convinced that water changes make tank management a lot easier.

Last point is assuming that the 20L. is "20 litres" and not a "20 gallon long"? I'm not sure that Rummy-nose tetra are suitable inhabitants, they are too big and active to be happy long term.

cheers Darrel
 
Jaap said:
Hello,

I have a 20L low tech tank planted with anubias and cryptoscorines. I do not make water changes and I just top up the evaporated water. Its substrate is clay based, 4 Rummy Nose Tetras, dosing low levels of EI and the light is NEVER on. All the light it gets is from ambient light in from the room and never direct sunlight. I have some green thread algae, not much but its there.

Any suggestions?

Regards.
Click to expand...

You have another thread that appear's today with same tank,same fish, and it has/had light fixture.
Perhap's the light has been removed?
How many hour's per day was the light on before alage appeared?
 
The light is still off 24/7 and it was off when the algae appeared

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
After 2 weeks of having the lights on a timer for two hours a day I notice that the hair algae is growing more and more...not at an uncontrolable rate but still it would be nice to tackle the problem so I could understand things better. So what do you think? Any suggestions?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Jaap said:
After 2 weeks of having the lights on a timer for two hours a day I notice that the hair algae is growing more and more...not at an uncontrolable rate but still it would be nice to tackle the problem so I could understand things better. So what do you think? Any suggestions?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


I believe there is still too little light. 2 hours is still pretty short time. I have my nano aquariums' lights on for 5 hours even with ambient light and I have not experienced hair algae.
 
So if I increase the time period from 2 to 5 it will do more good than bad?

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Well in theory yes. Darrel pointed out that the plants may struggle due to not being able to reach the light compensation point. The idea of the light compensation is when the rate of photosynthesis matches the rate of respiration. If the plant does not get enough light then its health could become poor leading to algae being able to take hold. Think of it as businesses try to break even. They want the income to match the spending therefore striking a balance and the business won't be losing profit.

If your aquarium is not getting enough light to reach the light compensation then yes increasing the lighting should help. If you can manually remove as much algae as possible and start monitoring the rate of algae growth with the increased photoperiod and report back then it may help us understand if it is in fact due to poor levels of light.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY EMERSED SETUP :mad: | UK Aquatic Plant Society
Darrel in post 18 of this link puts a link up regarding the lighting levels of natural day light during the year which is helpful in understanding the amount of light your plants could be receiving.
 
GHA is a tough one, none of the management methods are that good IME.

Trim and remove can adjust the CO2 up.
This can take 1-2 months and a lot of labor, 2-3x a week water changes etc, and it still might come back.
Some fish will eat it, but also will gnaw on moss or other furry like things in the tank.
Algaefix(not the Copper based stuff, the Busan based stuff) will work very well, but will kill shrimp(shrimp can be removed and then you can dose it per directions).

I only ever get GHA when my CO2 drops, tank runs out etc..........and I do not catch it, and if the plants grow up and near the surface in the way of the current. Some plants seem far more susceptible than others.
You can remove those plants also and then add them back later.
If it's only on the plants or a wood/rock you can remove easily, you can dip in the Algaefix also. Peroxide, Excel etc, not effective.
Algaefix works only on GHA, not much else.

None of these choices are all that good.
Work. Or a one time chemical kill.
 
Physical removal with a toothbrush and some liquid carbon should do it. Worked for me when my CO2 ran out unexpectedly the other day.
 
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