GSA with a bit of BBA :/

[Nicoz]

Hey Guys, relative new in aquascaping here.

I have a 120P with an ada superjet es-2400 filter.
Currently with a twinstar s1200, but I have a set of solar rgb's that I want to fit when the algae problem is under controle.

Soil is ada amazonia, I use 10 ml/day of tropica ferts, 3 ml easucarbo, and 5 ml of a stocksolution po4.

The major problem in this tank is GSA, I am spending most of my maintenance time scrubbing of GSA from stones, and nothing I do improves the situation.

The following is not being able to color Hra to the fullest, it stays greenish, orange

Any tips, feel free to ask for more info.

Regards

 

[Mr.Shenanagins]

H’ra like other rotalas likes high light and lower nitrates to get deep red. I’m going to assume that your GSA has something to do with your high lighting or long duration.

 

[Nicoz]

The twinstar s isn't that bright, working abouth 8 hours a day at 100% , No3 is around 10ppm.

 

[Mr.Shenanagins]

I have a Twinstar S and if your referring to “bright” in terms what your eyes can see, that’s not an accurate measure. It actually is a pretty strong light and 100% intensity with just glut dosing is a losing battle as your experiencing (unless you are injecting CO2?). I’d recommend dimming down and maybe shortening to 6 hours. It’s a delicate line between getting great explosive growth and triggering algae. Hitting the rocks with the carbo directly can help kill it off.

Growth looks good though just not the color you desire. In order to get it redder your going to need to be closer to 5ppm nitrate or less.

 

[strat100]

Had this problem myself since i started my tank about 4 months ago, i tried everything but what worked was increasing phosphate to 5ppm a day due to the Tropica soil sucking up all my phosphate more or less as soon as i put it in.
I know test kits are usually frowned upon but in this case i would never have known till i bought a phosphate test kit and the readings were zero and were checked against a reference sample i made.