Discussion in 'General Planted Tank Discussions' started by Emilio, 27 Feb 2017.
A precision scale is definitely worth its price. 20 tops.
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For what it's worth, when I add magnesium to my tank I use 1 level teaspoon per 50 ltrs which results in 10ppm in the tank. level teaspoons, and I mean level, fill the spoon and scrape off the excess with another spoon handle on average for me is about 4.8 grams. As near as dammit.
Just to add, I change 2x25ltr (fermenting bins) per week on a 100 ltr tank. I add 1 level teaspoon to each first then fill with water. At the end I swill them out with a smaller bucket just to make sure it's all in. I can't see any issues with just dumping it in the tank. The fish may have a peck at it on the way past but I hear it's quite good for their digestive organs anyway.
Thanks guys i appreciate all the input,
i have added some Mg hopefully thinks start getting better.
One step at a time mate. I'm no pro by any stretch of the imagination but all you can do is take the basic principles of flow, co2, fertiliser and good tank husbandry keeping things clean and address them one at a time and give it chance to see what difference it makes.
With high lighting there's less room for error so things can happen pretty quick. Probably why some appreciate lower lighting and a more relaxed approach.
In the same boat as you BTW, although my water is extremely soft on all counts. I found adding magnesium helped a lot. It was something I over looked in the early days.
appears to be no improvement even with dry dosing epsom salt.
still can't understand why this is happening, flow is very high so i co2, its being packed with tropica ferts and epsom salt and still no improvement?
Let's recap your problems.
1. Glassy leaves.
2. Thin new stem's tips.
You've doubled fertiser dosing for 10 days, added Epsom Salts for 5 days.
For me, I would not worry about the #2. From my observation on my own stem plants like Rotala green, the stems at the tips will be thinner while size of the leaves are larger when they're growing fast. In contrast, stunted tips will generally have normal size stems and the leaves become smaller and smaller.
For the #1, how about temperature? I mean rapid change may damage them. When you do the water change, have you adjusted the temperature before filling the tank?
I don't think 5 days is long enough to see an effect. You would have to probably wait 3 or 4 weeks before you would notice an improvement. Someone with more experience could jump in here but is Magnesium mobile or not? Maybe the old leaves aren't going to improve and the new growth will be fine. The older leaves maybe best trimmed off as new ones appear to stop them draining energy from the plant.
hello, if thats the case il wait a little while longer.
The only thing that happens fast in a planted aquarium is algae Get some pics up in a few weeks time and see where to go from there. In the mean time any leaves that look beyond hope and as long as there's some other viable leaves left on the plant maybe trim them off.
Magnesium is mobile, and you should get pretty quick greening of pale leaves.
Because it was the new leaves that are chlorotic it was likely to be a non-mobile element, which was why iron (Fe) deficiency was the original suggestion.
Very true, but it can be useful.
If you add a nutrient, and you get the sudden bloom of green algae, you can be pretty sure that levels of that nutrient was <"restricting growth in your plants">.
Thanks for that, I wasn't sure about Magnesium.
Another I wasn't aware of.
if it possibly Fe
Would Something like EasyLife Ferro be a good ?
or should i buy somthing like ADA ECA?
im not a big fan off mixing my own, i prefer to buy it ready.
can anyone recommend one ?
I don't think both will help but you can try of course.
If it's Fe and trace elements, you should see improvement within 2 weeks and sooner than that for Mg and Phosphorus.
The next phrase, IMO, is focus on water hardness. Are you sure the rock you use is inert? Small tank can be easier affected because the water volume is small.
Viktor Lantos used to do two versions of ADA Mini M tank. The first version went very smooth. He used driftwood as the hardscape.
But the V2 was a struggle. He, a great aquascaper, had tried quite hard to improve it for one year with no success. Plants got stunted and BBA was always persistent. I suspect it was from the rocks. I'm not sure if he used RO water back then. But he routinely uses it with his tanks. If he used RO, then even RO couldn't save it.
the rock i use is seiryu sone which raises even more hardness.
have now decided to tear down the aqaurium,
Emilio try lowering the CO2 for afew days to see if you have any improvement. It may not always be the case but Ive had a few instances where I was pumping in a LOT of CO2 in a tank to drive growth but it resulted in some unhealthy plants. Try it out for a few days, no harm since your already going to tear down the tank. Reduce to 1 bps or lower since the tank is tiny
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