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High GH and "softening filter"

RichTea

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Has any one used a "Geekpure" RO system?
I have been looking for reviews online but can only find ones on Amazon, its described as a drinking water system but from my limited knowledge seem to have all the right parts:

1st stage: PP spun filter (5um)
2nd stage: Granular carbon filter (5um)
3rd stage: Carbon block filter (5um)
4th stage: TFC Ro membrane (75GPD)
5th stage: acid washed coconut carbon filter
Would this do the trick as a cheapish RO system ? My thought was I would use the water from it mixed with my tap water.
 

Wookii

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Has any one used a "Geekpure" RO system?
I have been looking for reviews online but can only find ones on Amazon, its described as a drinking water system but from my limited knowledge seem to have all the right parts:

1st stage: PP spun filter (5um)
2nd stage: Granular carbon filter (5um)
3rd stage: Carbon block filter (5um)
4th stage: TFC Ro membrane (75GPD)
5th stage: acid washed coconut carbon filter
Would this do the trick as a cheapish RO system ? My thought was I would use the water from it mixed with my tap water.

This one?

Amazon product

Looks good to me - especially as it states that the carbon block filter removes chloramine also. Not sure of the relevance on the post carbon filter, but it can't hurt. Looks good value give you get the small tank and spare carts also.

Edit: One thing to bear in mind is that it doesn't have a pump, and the 75 gpd rating is based in 60psi / 4 bar. UK water regs state that mains supply has to be at least 1 bar, but many places don't get much more than that, so it will depend on your local supply. With a lower pressure you'll get much more waste water, and slower rate of RO water produced. You can easily by a pump and plumb it in though if necessary.
 
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RichTea

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Well its been a while but I finally got my self an RO unit, its a Finer Filters "6 stage reverse osmosis system with booster pump 50gpd"
Its a "home ro system" with a tank for drinking water and a mineralization cartridge.
So I have added a splitter and valves after the RO membrane, one to a container for Tank water one to the 'drinking water" tank which will then flow through a carbon filter and the minimization filter before the tap at the sink.

So for the aquarium water the filters are:

Stage 1 5 micron sediment,
Stage 2 granular activated carbon,
Stage 3 Carbon block filter,
stage 4 50 GPD Reverse Osmosis membrane.


Quick testing today shows the tds from the filter to be 10ppm and my tap water as 400.


Should this be okay for the aquarium, or do I need a di filter too? My plan is to just mix the ro water with tap water for my tank.



Just in case any one is interested:
Stage 5 is a Post-Carbon filter
Stage 6 is a Remineralizing filter


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 

_Maq_

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My plan is to just mix the ro water with tap water for my tank.
I always read with regret when people mix RO water with tap water. Once you've invested in acquiring reverse osmosis it's just one relatively easy and cheap step from complete perfection: mineralizing RO water with dry salts. That is the way to 'perfect' water, matching exactly your wish.
 

RichTea

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Once you've invested in acquiring reverse osmosis it's just one relatively easy and cheap step from complete perfection: mineralizing RO water with dry salts. That is the way to 'perfect' water, matching exactly your wish.

Interesting, are there any bigger guides you would recommend so i can start to learn what is required?
 

_Maq_

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are there any bigger guides you would recommend
I'm not aware of any 'Short & Simple Guide to Perfect Water'. Perhaps because there's no perfect water to suit anyone's needs and intentions.
You can try IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator
As always, first you need to know what you want, and then you search for tools to bring it about.
 

dw1305

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Hi all,
You can try IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator. I'm not aware of any 'Short & Simple Guide to Perfect Water'.
The <"IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator"> is pretty comprehensive.

Traditionally I usually refer people to (former UKAPS member) James C 's web pages at <"James' Planted Tank Web Page">:
I assume the maths is right on these, but I've never checked.

cheers Darrel
 

Wookii

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Interesting, are there any bigger guides you would recommend so i can start to learn what is required?

As suggest above, the IFC Calculator now includes a Remineralisation section making it very easy to work out your salt quantities.

For a very simple 'fag packet' method, just buy Calcium Chloride and Magnesium Sulphate (both readily available online), and add an equal quantity of each to your RO water change water (or to the tank immediately after a water change).

Half a gram of each will remineralise 10 litres of RO to roughly 3dGH in approximately the often targeted 3:1 (Ca:Mg) ratio. You can then use that to calculate what you need for your specific water change quantity and/or target GH.

For example if you want to change 25 litres and target 5dGH, then: 0.5g / 10 litres x 25 litres / 3dGH x 5dGH = ~2.0g of each salt
 

RichTea

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Thanks everyone, I'll do some reading up and testing.

Currently my tank water measurements are around, 7dKH, 20dGH and 480 tds.
The ro water is 2dKH, 3dGH and 10 tds.

Will it be safe to do some "raw" ro water changes for now to start bringing my tank readings down?

The tank is a 340 but I must have at least 40 of that with substrate, decoration and plants. So 300l of water I was thinking of doing a 25l chance. So 1/12th.

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RichTea

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Impossible. There must be something wrong about your measurements.
I am using an NT Labs test kit and an old "eBay' tds meter so that is very possible!
What seems odd about the readings?

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 

RichTea

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I am using an NT Labs test kit and an old "eBay' tds meter so that is very possible!
What seems odd about the readings?

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
Oh I went back and tested again, this time using a cleaner container to collect the water! (Must remember not to use old plastic cup for testing water)

0dKH, 1dGH, 6tds,


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Wookii

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Thanks everyone, I'll do some reading up and testing.

Currently my tank water measurements are around, 7dKH, 20dGH and 480 tds.
The ro water is 2dKH, 3dGH and 10 tds.

As @_Maq_ says there is something wrong there, and there would be something wrong with the RO system if it was measuring that high in the product water, but your re-measurements look better.

Oh I went back and tested again, this time using a cleaner container to collect the water! (Must remember not to use old plastic cup for testing water)

0dKH, 1dGH, 6tds,

Your GH is likely significantly less than 1, so for remineralising purposes, just assume its zero. If you really want to accurately test, you can just double or quadruple your sample water when performing the GH drip test.

Will it be safe to do some "raw" ro water changes for now to start bringing my tank readings down?

The tank is a 340 but I must have at least 40 of that with substrate, decoration and plants. So 300l of water I was thinking of doing a 25l chance. So 1/12th.

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

Yes, you will be fine doing that every couple of days and just forgo your usual weekly water change until you have hit your target values in tank.
 

MichaelJ

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Blörö - the famous Finnish breakfast consisting of hot coffee, vodka and a cigarette
Bourbon added straight to the coffee and a cigarette works well too :)

I always read with regret when people mix RO water with tap water. Once you've invested in acquiring reverse osmosis it's just one relatively easy and cheap step from complete perfection: mineralizing RO water with dry salts. That is the way to 'perfect' water, matching exactly your wish.

I would generally agree with this. Way in the past I have used RO + Tap (like 60% RO and 40% tap to reach the KH/GH I was aiming for back then). The problem with RODI is that only about 15-25% of the water coming into the system is actually purified, the rest is waste plus the time it takes to make the water and store it. All this is an issue, especially for a large tank. However, the downside of mixing RO/Tap is that your really not much in control in terms of what your getting - Yes, you lower your water hardness, but the exact Calcium/Magnesium amounts, the amounts of Nitrates, Phosphates, Copper, Zinc, Chlorine and other unwanted minerals, compounds and (possible) pollutants remains largely unknown. Long time ago I switched over to remineralizing pure RODI water and just dialed back my WC percentage and WC frequency a bit to lessen the waste. Works for me and my two 150L / 40 US Gallon tanks.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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