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High PH
- Thread starter Tommy
- Start date
1 bps is a good conservative start for both fish and plants
I don’t recall which fish you have - or which plants
But as plants have been surviving without additional CO2, I’d increase CO2 at a rate comfortable for fish - they need to do some biochemical changes to adapt to higher CO2 levels and this takes a few days to get going and a couple weeks to really settle
I don’t recall which fish you have - or which plants
But as plants have been surviving without additional CO2, I’d increase CO2 at a rate comfortable for fish - they need to do some biochemical changes to adapt to higher CO2 levels and this takes a few days to get going and a couple weeks to really settle
1 bps is a good conservative start for both fish and plants
I don’t recall which fish you have - or which plants
But as plants have been surviving without additional CO2, I’d increase CO2 at a rate comfortable for fish - they need to do some biochemical changes to adapt to higher CO2 levels and this takes a few days to get going and a couple weeks to really settle
Don't have any fish in yet alto, want to get the tank set up properly before I start to add them. I have anubias, bucephalandras, cryps, java ferns, a ludwigia, a bacopa and moss mate.
Zeus.
Fertz Meister
240L is pretty big tank.
I would not do it the same way as 'Alto' suggested not that he is wrong OFC as he has far more experience than me
You have no livestock ATM so perfect time to setup the CO2. You dont need a pH pen but one is very handy to check your pH profile is stable once the lights are on. But you could start using the CO2 but if the [CO2] is fluctuating once the lights come on the plants will suffer if the [CO2]/pH fluctuates esp in the first 4-5hours. If you cant afford a decent pH pen I would go for some decent pH test strips but dont know which ones to advised as I have always used a pH pen/probe/controller.
You could go down the CO2 on 24/7 route as some do but it does use more CO2 OFC. But it does make things easier esp seeing the plants you have a dark green DC may be more than enough dependant on your light output
I have used a cheap pH pen is the past and did find it useful but not to measure the pH drop per sa but just to measure if its stable and to ignore the actual reading value if that makes sense. So if it says says 7.10ph or 6.10pH it doesnt mater its the relative change it shows from lights on for first 4-5hours or till CO2 off. This method is subject to the errors the cheapo pH pens but with just justing the relative change after the Main pH drop IMO it minimises the errors in the actual pH reading. If going down this route still calibrate the pH pen but dont expect it to read the same valve day after day your just going of the relative change
If you have a high output light, with your CO2 equipment I would start the CO2 at a reasonable high BPS with the DC in the tank, the DC needs to be in a place where it doesnt catch any CO2 bubbles. Then allow 2-3hrs to allow the [CO2] to reach equilibrium in the tank then you need to wait 2 hrs for the DC to change colour and stay at that colour , I would aim for yellowish/green first then dial back a bit on the BPS esp if it goes yellow. After 2hrs of CO2 being on use the cheap pH pen and start measure the pH and see if it remains relatively stable for the rest of the CO2 period esp from lights on using paper and pen and make a note of time and pH as you soon forget when you last did it, do it every 30mins
Also we have very little details of your tank like filter output lights etc and a FTS helps too. Plus the flow/turnover in the tank needs to be good esp with a 240l tank. Setting up CO2 on a tank is very hard to do right.
After writing all that I think the method 'Alto suggested would be the best bet as small steps as a beginner to CO2 will help you understand whats happening which will help you get the CO2 right But try using the cheapo pH pen after lights on as it may help
I would not do it the same way as 'Alto' suggested not that he is wrong OFC as he has far more experience than me
You have no livestock ATM so perfect time to setup the CO2. You dont need a pH pen but one is very handy to check your pH profile is stable once the lights are on. But you could start using the CO2 but if the [CO2] is fluctuating once the lights come on the plants will suffer if the [CO2]/pH fluctuates esp in the first 4-5hours. If you cant afford a decent pH pen I would go for some decent pH test strips but dont know which ones to advised as I have always used a pH pen/probe/controller.
You could go down the CO2 on 24/7 route as some do but it does use more CO2 OFC. But it does make things easier esp seeing the plants you have a dark green DC may be more than enough dependant on your light output
I have used a cheap pH pen is the past and did find it useful but not to measure the pH drop per sa but just to measure if its stable and to ignore the actual reading value if that makes sense. So if it says says 7.10ph or 6.10pH it doesnt mater its the relative change it shows from lights on for first 4-5hours or till CO2 off. This method is subject to the errors the cheapo pH pens but with just justing the relative change after the Main pH drop IMO it minimises the errors in the actual pH reading. If going down this route still calibrate the pH pen but dont expect it to read the same valve day after day your just going of the relative change
If you have a high output light, with your CO2 equipment I would start the CO2 at a reasonable high BPS with the DC in the tank, the DC needs to be in a place where it doesnt catch any CO2 bubbles. Then allow 2-3hrs to allow the [CO2] to reach equilibrium in the tank then you need to wait 2 hrs for the DC to change colour and stay at that colour , I would aim for yellowish/green first then dial back a bit on the BPS esp if it goes yellow. After 2hrs of CO2 being on use the cheap pH pen and start measure the pH and see if it remains relatively stable for the rest of the CO2 period esp from lights on using paper and pen and make a note of time and pH as you soon forget when you last did it, do it every 30mins
Also we have very little details of your tank like filter output lights etc and a FTS helps too. Plus the flow/turnover in the tank needs to be good esp with a 240l tank. Setting up CO2 on a tank is very hard to do right.
After writing all that I think the method 'Alto suggested would be the best bet as small steps as a beginner to CO2 will help you understand whats happening which will help you get the CO2 right
But try using the cheapo pH pen after lights on as it may help240L is pretty big tank.
I would not do it the same way as 'Alto' suggested not that he is wrong OFC as he has far more experience than me
You have no livestock ATM so perfect time to setup the CO2. You dont need a pH pen but one is very handy to check your pH profile is stable once the lights are on. But you could start using the CO2 but if the [CO2] is fluctuating once the lights come on the plants will suffer if the [CO2]/pH fluctuates esp in the first 4-5hours. If you cant afford a decent pH pen I would go for some decent pH test strips but dont know which ones to advised as I have always used a pH pen/probe/controller.
You could go down the CO2 on 24/7 route as some do but it does use more CO2 OFC. But it does make things easier esp seeing the plants you have a dark green DC may be more than enough dependant on your light output
I have used a cheap pH pen is the past and did find it useful but not to measure the pH drop per sa but just to measure if its stable and to ignore the actual reading value if that makes sense. So if it says says 7.10ph or 6.10pH it doesnt mater its the relative change it shows from lights on for first 4-5hours or till CO2 off. This method is subject to the errors the cheapo pH pens but with just justing the relative change after the Main pH drop IMO it minimises the errors in the actual pH reading. If going down this route still calibrate the pH pen but dont expect it to read the same valve day after day your just going of the relative change
If you have a high output light, with your CO2 equipment I would start the CO2 at a reasonable high BPS with the DC in the tank, the DC needs to be in a place where it doesnt catch any CO2 bubbles. Then allow 2-3hrs to allow the [CO2] to reach equilibrium in the tank then you need to wait 2 hrs for the DC to change colour and stay at that colour , I would aim for yellowish/green first then dial back a bit on the BPS esp if it goes yellow. After 2hrs of CO2 being on use the cheap pH pen and start measure the pH and see if it remains relatively stable for the rest of the CO2 period esp from lights on using paper and pen and make a note of time and pH as you soon forget when you last did it, do it every 30mins
Also we have very little details of your tank like filter output lights etc and a FTS helps too. Plus the flow/turnover in the tank needs to be good esp with a 240l tank. Setting up CO2 on a tank is very hard to do right.
After writing all that I think the method 'Alto suggested would be the best bet as small steps as a beginner to CO2 will help you understand whats happening which will help you get the CO2 right
Hi Zeus, thanks for the detailed reply. So today Co2 on at 11 Lights on at 1, at 1-35 drop check was still blue so I increased the bubble count, went out to a LFS to get some plants, 4-45 drop checker was dark green, so increased the bubble count again, 8 is Co2 off so checked DC again it is lime green. Here's some pics of the tank and the drop checker.
Let me know if my placement of the Co2 Diffuser and Drop Checker is in the right place and if the DC looks ok, Thanks
I would not do it the same way as 'Alto' suggested not that he is wrong OFC as he has far more experience than me
No fish then no worries on working out the CO2 kinks
24/7 CO2 is very useful if tank receives even low ambient light - I was surprised at how low that light can be and still “trigger” Rotala ‘Vietnam H’ra’ to “open” its leaves ... I tried to convince it to an evening photoperiod, 4pm - 11pm but it would “close” it’s leaves by 5pm
Tank is in a dim corner under the stairs
I also like 24/7 CO2 for a Tropica’s 1-2- Grow plants, I run lower bps during during the 24/7 period, transitioning to photoperiod CO2 once plants are actively growing, adding fish etc
Tank is in a dim corner under the stairs
I also like 24/7 CO2 for a Tropica’s 1-2- Grow plants, I run lower bps during during the 24/7 period, transitioning to photoperiod CO2 once plants are actively growing, adding fish etc
24/7 CO2 is very useful if tank receives even low ambient light - I was surprised at how low that light can be and still “trigger” Rotala ‘Vietnam H’ra’ to “open” its leaves ... I tried to convince it to an evening photoperiod, 4pm - 11pm but it would “close” it’s leaves by 5pm
Tank is in a dim corner under the stairs
I also like 24/7 CO2 for a Tropica’s 1-2- Grow plants, I run lower bps during during the 24/7 period, transitioning to photoperiod CO2 once plants are actively growing, adding fish etc
So does everything look ok so far mate?
Zeus.
Fertz Meister
Is your water intake and output on opposite sided of the tank? if so best next to each other 'if you can'
DC position is fine to start with, once you get the BPS that gets the colour change your after, then you can move it arround to see if the [CO2] is the same all over the tank.
Remember Tank turnover (flow) is KING in a high tech tank ( yes there are folk who do great things with low tank turnover but they are experienced )
CO2 bubbles don't seem to be reaching other side of tank (far right)
DC position is fine to start with, once you get the BPS that gets the colour change your after, then you can move it arround to see if the [CO2] is the same all over the tank.
Remember Tank turnover (flow) is KING in a high tech tank ( yes there are folk who do great things with low tank turnover but they are experienced )
CO2 bubbles don't seem to be reaching other side of tank (far right)
Yes one of my filters intake is on the left as theres no room on the right. My filters have 3 outlets all on the right. How could I improve the flow? add a wavemaker on left hand side? Co2 bubbles are drifting up through the middle, some reach but you have to look for them.
Zeus.
Fertz Meister
play with the way their jets move the water as some jet positions/angles will give better flow its all trial and error
