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How to convert a Fluval Roma 240 I-Bar to use T5 lights

swackett

Member
Joined
29 May 2008
Messages
439
Location
Epsom, Surrey
To convert the Fluval Roma I-Bar you will need the following:
- 1 x Arcadia Ultra Seal Electronic T5 controller Twin 54w
- 2 x Arcadia J5 or Juwel 54w T5 tubes
- 2 x Arcadia reflectors or similar
- Dremel or similar tool
- Wallpaper scraper
- Silicon

To start we need to open the I-Bar (the top panel is held in with clips and is glued and some may take some fiddling).

  • 1. To do this turn the I-Bar over and remove both the T8 tubes, once you have done this you will notice 6 clips (3 on each side, with 1 pair at either end of the I-Bar and 1 pair in the middle).
    2. This bit may take some patience and is probably the trickiest bit , I took my time because I did not want to break any of the clips. Turn the I-Bar on it’s side, start at one end by pressing a flat bladed screwdriver into the first clip, some gentle force may be required and the glue holding the panel down should give way, repeat on the other clips (the glue on mine gave way the easiest at the ends and I needed to use a wallpaper scraper to work my way along the top, prising the top panel up until I could successfully use the screwdriver on the central clips). The panel was now free and could see what was in the C-Bar, a magnetic ballast and starters (no surprise there as most T8 units are)

hood_1.jpg


The point of no going back..... we need to remove the innards

  • 3. Unscrew the starters and the ballasts and cut the wires connecting them to the white lamp holders and remove them.
    4. Prise the white lamp holders out using a screwdriver on the inside against each of the tabs (they have four each , 2 on each side to push in) and remove them.
    5. Remove the power cable from the middle of the C-Bar and keep the white U piece holding it in place as it will come in useful later.

hood_2.jpg


Mounting the Control unit in the I-Bar

  • 6. Take the Dremel and using the cutting disc and sanding bit remove all the plastic fitting pieces inside the I-Bar, making sure everything is flush with the bottom.
    7. Using the sanding bit, I removed some of the sidewall of the I-Bar as the grey covers on each end of the Control unit are slightly too wide (2mm) to fit in perfectly.
    8. Again using the Dremel sanding bit, make each of the lamp holder openings wider (make sure you widen the opening at the end nearest the end of the I-Bar).
Time to put everything back together

  • 9. Thread the new Arcadia lamp holders through the widened openings and push the control unit into the I-Bar. ( this may take a few attempts until you get the wires and everything in as it’s a tight fit)
    10. Cut the power cable between the control unit and the switch and thread the power cable through the hole the original power cable went and reconnect the two ends of the cut power cable using a suitable connector.
    11. Prop the I-Bar on its side and push the clear plastic lamp brackets onto each lamp holder and connect each end to the tube. Hold the brackets against the I-Bar and mark where the holes are at each end and remove the tube, use a small drill to drill the holes. Screw the brackets onto the I-bar using small self tapping screws and repeat for other side.
    12. Using the original clear plastic bit that was holding in the power cable, push this down over the new cable and silicone it all up on the inside and outside, I also put a blob on the ends of the self tapping screws that held brackets in place to stop them snagging any cables.
    13. Wait for the silicon to dry and fit the reflectors and tubes and then put the top panel back on and plug it in.
hood_3.jpg


hood_4.jpg


hood_6.jpg


An alternative if you do not have the time, patience or a Dremel would be to put the control unit under the aquarium instead of in the I-Bar, this would mean not having to cut the power cable and so keeping you warrantee on the Control unit.

Hope this is useful.

Steve
 

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