Yes, me too. I consider jubilee clips now too, as a backup on my Eheim canister connections. I would generally recommend longer hoses between the double-valve and the canister taps, because the short hose piece tend to be stiff and once it popped off the filter tap. The tension in longer hose is absorbed by hose but with short hose, it gets absorbed by the connection.I have stainless jubillee clips on my diffuser rather than the lock nuts, as I had a "pop off" incident whilst fiddling adjusting hoses once.
Just googled it and definitely thankful for that idea. Intank filter would be even safer than HOBs, but anything else than canister/sump for 50+ gallon tanks?If you want to safeguard against hose leak that can potentially drain the tank, avoid filters with external hoses, meaning no canister filters or sump system with overflow hoses. HOBs are 100% leak proof because there is no external plumbing. Sump system with hard plumbing is also very safe as chance of breaking rigid PVC plumbing is remote.
If you must use canister filter or sump system with external hoses, you can minimize flooding hazard by fixing or drilling an anti siphon hole in the hoses near the top of the tank, so even if it leaks, it can drain down only a few inches of water.
Back flow valves work but impose high flow resistance, not worth it if you can do it simpler with anti siphon device. There are many skimmer design and if it can break siphon when leak develops somewhere in the hosing system, it should work. In tank filters cannot leak out of the tank, so they are the safest but also the ugliest. Aquascapers pay high priority to aesthetic and internal filters, along with HOBs to a lesser degree, are out in front and cannot be hidden. I have huge show tanks in my living room on hardwood floor, and my priority is safety first. I run multiple HOBs, 2 in my my 75 gal and 3 in my 125 gal to achieve adequate filtration so as to avoid external plumbing and the potential of leak.Just googled it and definitely thankful for that idea. Intank filter would be even safer than HOBs, but anything else than canister/sump for 50+ gallon tanks?
I am thinking about various scenarios. But the drill would need to be on mainly inlet lower hose. No?
What about those skimmer inlet pipes? Wouldnl't it work as safety antisyphon hole too?
What about back flow valves?
No significant leak implies that there could be insignificant leak. An insignificant leak can turn into significant leak if it is not discovered early and allowed to continue for a long time. There have been reports of insignificant drip from an insignificant air hose that drained half a tank over several days when someone was away from home. I have experienced an air hose slipped off a gang valve creating a venturi suction that started back siphoning from air hoses still attached. This is why manufacturers recommend air pump be placed above tank to prevent back siphoning but not many comply. I have no choice but have a CO2 hose go into my high tech tank but I avoid external reactor and use an in tank reactor instead. Importantly, I installed a check valve to prevent back siphoning and placed it inside the tank under water so I can spot valve failure (bubbling) it it happens.I used to worry about leaks. I don't now.
I have something like 27 possible failure points in my cabinet, with just standard barbed fittings. The only precautions I've taken are to heat the hoses in boiling water when fitting them, put 2mm cable ties around them. No jubilee clips or anything fancy.
I've had lights, pumps and heaters all die, but I've never had a significant leak in 10yrs.