• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up
  • You can now follow UKAPS on Instagram.

inline reactor not connected to ext filter suggestions

ojustaboo

Member
Joined
15 Mar 2011
Messages
201
Hi all, title not making it clear at all.

I built a home made reactor a couple of months ago that's connected to the output of my external filter. It seems to be working reasonably well.

I have 2 problems, both I THINK I have the answer to, but am not sure what I need.

1) The first problem that's becoming a REAL pain is my weekly water change and me changing the filter wool in my Eheim 2073 filter.

What used to be a very simple process, closing a lever to release/shutoff the in/output pipes, doing whatever was needed to the filter, putting in/output pipes back and opening the lever, filter filled back up with water and everything sprang into life,

has now turned into a nightmare.

My reactor is basically

reactor1q.jpg

Only thing not shown is the downpipe with the CO2 input on.

What's happening is, every time I have to remove my filter, I'm having a nightmare getting air out of this reactor and getting the flow to start again. Even if I fill my filter to the brim before I put the top back on, it's still taking me up to 1hr to get the flow going properly again.

I'm having to loosen the top of my reactor, like bleeding a radiator, until water is coming out, even then the flow won't start. I'm having to use a towel over the top of the reactor, letting it fill up with water and get drenched, before all the air is out allowing the flow to start up again.

This is obviously unacceptable, hence I need to look at alternatives.

I'm currently looking at the possibility of ditching my home made reactor for the up atomizer one as per foxfish's pic in viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15815&start=20

or getting one of the Aquagro TM 1500 reactors.

Or the other alternative I can think of (one that I may well still use if I went for the TM 1500 due it using 12mm tubing) is to simply remove the reactor from the filter and give it it's own supply. Only danger of this is with my reactor, I cant see what's happening, hence would need to regularly remember to check for air in it, but it would mean I can leave it alone and have my filter completely separate.

The big how long is a piece of string question here is what so you all recommend I do please :)

If that's too silly a question, what sort of pump can I use to simply take water out of the tank, into the reactor and back into the tank with no filtration? I presume things like the "Superfish Aqua circulation pump" is no good for this? It looks from the web pics that it doesn't have both input and output tails?

2) I need better circulation in my tank (plants on one side doing a lot better than same plants on other), hence I presume I need something like the Superfish circulation pump to achieve this. It's a 170Lt corner tank, very deep, any idea on the sort of size circulation pump I should be looking for, would 650lt ph be too much, not enough etc?

Many thanks all

Joe
 

Bobtastic

Member
Joined
13 May 2009
Messages
745
Location
Manchester, UK
Hey Joe! (t'hehe)

#1 - I have a AM1000 external reactor which is basically the same style of reactor as yours but the AM1000 has a purpose built bleed valve in the top. It is essentially a hole in the top with the fitting for an air line and the air line connected to the top has a tap. This allows you to "bleed" the air off the top of the reactor. I am assuming that your reactor is setup with the flow coming in from the top and coming out the bottom?

#2 - Not sure how big your tank is but I'm gonna be running a Eheim 2078 through my AM1000 inlet/outlet through a full length spray bar on the left and a Fluval 405 through a Hydor ETH300 inlet/outlet throught a full length spray bar on the right side of my 240litre tank.

If you're thinking about adding a powerhead may be another filter, that way you have the extra flow but also additional filtration?
 

Charlieh

Member
Joined
13 Jul 2009
Messages
29
You can install a bleed valve using the parts described here:

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=12745

Drill a 4.5mm hole right at the top of the reactor,install a hozelock connector and then attach a short piece of airline with a valve (just like the AM1000 reactor). To prime it just open the valve until water runs out then you'll be good to go.
 

ojustaboo

Member
Thread starter
Joined
15 Mar 2011
Messages
201
Many many many thanks, will look at getting the hozelock bits tomorrow.

Is it just a powerhead I need for better flow around the tank please? Don't really want a filter. What sort of flow should I be looking at for 170lt corner tank please? (already have my Eheim pro3 2073 going thorough the supplied spraybar, around 1050lt p/h according to specs), around 1/2 tank seems to be getting a good amount of CO2 about 1/2 isn't.

Thanks

Joe
 

Bobtastic

Member
Joined
13 May 2009
Messages
745
Location
Manchester, UK
The general rule is x10 the total volume of flow. That can be made up of filter and powerhead. Is your spray bar the full length of one of your side sections? The CEG swears by spray bars as your best way to distribute Co2/Ferts. Corner style tanks, I'm lead to believe, are trickier to get the flow right on. But I have seen a journal for one that was beautiful so I know it can be done.
 

ojustaboo

Member
Thread starter
Joined
15 Mar 2011
Messages
201
Thanks Bob

No the spray bar is only around 12".

I think I'll get a full length spray bar and also a small in size powerhead/circulation pump. With the corner tank being so deep and the tanks shape, I'm not 100% convinced that a spray bar alone will achieve 100% circulation.

Many thanks for your advice

Joe
 

ojustaboo

Member
Thread starter
Joined
15 Mar 2011
Messages
201
Charlieh said:
You can install a bleed valve using the parts described here:

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=12745

Drill a 4.5mm hole right at the top of the reactor,install a hozelock connector and then attach a short piece of airline with a valve (just like the AM1000 reactor). To prime it just open the valve until water runs out then you'll be good to go.

Just had a play, think it's going to be perfect.

Glad there's a few in the packet, tried fixing one to a spare piece of pipe, your instructions work fine. Only thing is, they're hard to turn, needing a spanner, it's very hard to judge when they're in fully. Tighten slightly too much and they shear off. Think I've got it about right now, soon find out when I do it for real over the weekend.

Again, many many thanks.

Joe
 

Charlieh

Member
Joined
13 Jul 2009
Messages
29
Yep I've sheared them off too !!

The connectors can get a bit tight when screwing in for the first time and you will need a spanner. That's why you really need to tap the hole first but wetting it or applying a tiny smear of vaseline or silicone to the threads can make things easier. Make sure you don't over tighten the o ring though or else you won't get a perfect seal - it should be slightly compressed not squashed flat.

Have fun !
 

ojustaboo

Member
Thread starter
Joined
15 Mar 2011
Messages
201
Ah, that's what I forgot with my test, an o-ring (hides in the corner in embarrassment).

Have done the real thing tonight, looks like I've done it fine, too late now to test, will put back on in the morning.

Noticed the hozelock connectors don't make a very tight fit over normal air/co2 hose, have siliconed and cable tied them in place. If that doesn't work, will see if I can find some hozelock tube tomorrow.

thanks

Joe
 

Charlieh

Member
Joined
13 Jul 2009
Messages
29
You don't need hozelock tubing - it's too hard. Normal air/co2 tubing works fine and will give you a good seal as long as there's a slight bulge in the tubing over the barb. I must admit that I do use a small cable tie under the barb to ensure it doesn't come off though.
 

ojustaboo

Member
Thread starter
Joined
15 Mar 2011
Messages
201
Many thanks

It all appears to have gone superbly, cleaned the filter, bled the air out, no problems at all.

Also changed disposable bottle for fire extinguisher, took about 3 mins to do (plus checking for leaks, there weren't any), thought it would be way more difficult.

Finally I put in a circulation pump. Now when I drop in the fish food, I can see it going around the entire tank.

All in all a good weekends work.

many thanks for everyone's help.
 

Similar threads

Top