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Is my tap water ok.

The fish will be happy with those. Just keep an eye on the shrimp, any moulting issues and they might benefit from a GH booster. It's good water to have as starting soft it's much easier to add more 'stuff' in if you want it, rather than having hardwater and taking stuff out.
 
The fish will be happy with those. Just keep an eye on the shrimp, any moulting issues and they might benefit from a GH booster. It's good water to have as starting soft it's much easier to add more 'stuff' in if you want it, rather than having hardwater and taking stuff out.
How will I know if I have moulting problems the shrimp are moulting at the min and have have had shrimplets but I have lost 4 shrimp also.
 
Hi all,
How would I work my tds rating out with the numbers on my chart to get the reading you got for me can I do it by calculater?
Yes, just multiply the conductivity value (in microS. (/cm)) by 0.64, and the number you get is the approximation to TDS in ppm. If you want to go from ppm TDS to conductivity in microS divide by 0.64

So 100 microS is equivalent to 64ppm TDS and 100ppm TDS is equivalent to 156 microS.

cheers Darrel
 
How will I know if I have moulting problems the shrimp are moulting at the min and have have had shrimplets but I have lost 4 shrimp also.

They get what looks like a split across their backs ready to moult but aren't able to complete it and pass away.
 
Hi all, Yes, just multiply the conductivity value (in microS. (/cm)) by 0.64, and the number you get is the approximation to TDS in ppm. If you want to go from ppm TDS to conductivity in microS divide by 0.64

So 100 microS is equivalent to 64ppm TDS and 100ppm TDS is equivalent to 156 microS.

cheers Darrel
Thank you Darrel
 
They get what looks like a split across their backs ready to moult but aren't able to complete it and pass away.
Do they moult through the whole like span. And by looking at my water chart which one is for my kh and gh and what be best gh for my water.
 
Hi,
all crustaceans have to moult their exoskeleton to grow. After they moult they take on lots of water to swell the new, soft skin that's exposed. they use any hardness, minerals etc to harden the new exoskeleton 'till next time. When dealing with crustacea you would be surprised at the % increase in body bulk.
HTH
 
Hi,
all crustaceans have to moult their exoskeleton to grow. After they moult they take on lots of water to swell the new, soft skin that's exposed. they use any hardness, minerals etc to harden the new exoskeleton 'till next time. When dealing with crustacea you would be surprised at the % increase in body bulk.
HTH
how often do they moult there shell?
 
Hi all, Yes, just multiply the conductivity value (in microS. (/cm)) by 0.64, and the number you get is the approximation to TDS in ppm. If you want to go from ppm TDS to conductivity in microS divide by 0.64

So 100 microS is equivalent to 64ppm TDS and 100ppm TDS is equivalent to 156 microS.

cheers Darrel
Would you know on my water report which one tells me my gh and kh and what should I be aiming for on my gh for my shrimp? Also how do I do this on the calculater for my tds reading (/cm)) i dont understand it sorry for sounding thick. Im just trying to get my head around it. Thanks lee.
 
Hi all,
Would you know on my water report which one tells me my gh and kh and what should I be aiming for on my gh for my shrimp? Also how do I do this on the calculater for my tds reading (/cm))
The degree hardness is English or "degree Clark", you can get a conversion <"page here">, so the given value of 7.14 degrees Clark is ~5.75 dGH/dKH.

1.24 degrees English ("Clark") is equivalent to 1 degree "German", dKH/dGH.
Also how do I do this on the calculater for my tds reading (/cm))
You can't directly, but you also have a value for calcium, 30.8 mg/L (30.8 ppm). I won't put all the working down here (they are in <"How do I work out.....">), but the 31 ppm Ca is equivalent to ~4.3 dKH, so the remaining 1.4 dGH is probably magnesium (Mg). The derivation of degree of hardness is a bit strange, have a look at this thread <"How to find out....">.
what should I be aiming for on my gh for my shrimp?
Depends on the shrimp, Amano and Cherry shrimps like hard water, Crystal Red shrimps much softer water.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,The degree hardness is English or "degree Clark", you can get a conversion <"page here">, so the given value of 7.14 degrees Clark is ~5.75 dGH/dKH.

1.24 degrees English ("Clark") is equivalent to 1 degree "German", dKH/dGH.You can't directly, but you also have a value for calcium, 30.8 mg/L (30.8 ppm). I won't put all the working down here (they are in <"How do I work out.....">), but the 31 ppm Ca is equivalent to ~4.3 dKH, so the remaining 1.4 dGH is probably magnesium (Mg). The derivation of degree of hardness is a bit strange, have a look at this thread <"How to find out....">.Depends on the shrimp, Amano and Cherry shrimps like hard water, Crystal Red shrimps much softer water.

cheers Darrel
Wow you are really good with this stuff. I'm slowly learning all the time now thanks to you so thank you. Well I have amano and cherry shrimp so will my gh and 7.14 hardness Clarke be ok for these guys as tam pointed out I might need a gh booster. Also german Clarke and English Clarke why is there 2 do we follow the English Clarke or both? Thanks lee
 
Hi all,
Also german Clarke and English Clarke why is there 2 do we follow the English Clarke or both?
In fish-keeping usually hardness is quoted in German Degrees (dGH/dKH) that is why it is a K rather than a C, "Karbonathärte" in German.

Scientists don't really use any of the measures (they just mg/L).
Well I have amano and cherry shrimp so will my gh and 7.14 hardness Clarke be ok for these guys as tam pointed out I might need a gh booster
You can harden the water, if you don't want to go down the gh booster route you can just use one of the calcium carbonate options from the <"Do I need to add calcium...."> thread.

I think a piece of Cuttle-bone (like you would give a Budgie) might be a good option.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all, In fish-keeping usually hardness is quoted in German Degrees (dGH/dKH) that is why it is a K rather than a C, "Karbonathärte" in German.

Scientists don't really use any of the measures (they just mg/L). You can harden the water, if you don't want to go down the gh booster route you can just use one of the calcium carbonate options from the <"Do I need to add calcium...."> thread.

I think a piece of Cuttle-bone (like you would give a Budgie) might be a good option.

cheers Darrel
Ok thank you Darrel how often should I use a cuttle bone when should I change it. Also I take it my water isn't hard enough for the shrimp? Cheers Lee
 
Does dGH/dKH stand for degrees general hardness karbonate hardness? And also Is my gh 5.75 then and if so is my water not hard enough for the cheerys and amanos then but ok for crystal shrimp? What about French Clarke do we need to follow that? Cheers lee
 
Hi all,
Does dGH/dKH stand for degrees general hardness karbonate hardness?
Yes dGH is the general or "permanent" hardness (Ca++ & Mg++ ions) measured in degrees German, dKH "temporary" hardness (carbonate ions) measured in degrees German.

The permanent and temporary bits just mean that you can remove the temporary hardness by boiling the water, but this doesn't effect the "permanent" hardness.
What about French Clarke do we need to follow that?
No, just use the <"Lenntech converter">, in the aquarium hobby hardness is nearly always quoted in German units.
should I use a cuttle bone when should I change it
I wouldn't change it, it will eventually dissolved and the shrimps (and snails) will have a pick at it.
Also I take it my water isn't hard enough for the shrimp?
I don't know, I eventually lost my Cherry shrimps, but this was due to a combination of feeding too many of them to the Cichlids and the water getting softer. I don't measure anything other than conductivity in the tanks, so I don't know what the hardness was, but we were probably down to 1 or 2 dGH/dKH.
then but ok for crystal shrimp?
I haven't kept these, but they definitely like <"cooler, softer water">.

cheers Darrel
 
Last edited:
Hi all, Yes dGH is the general or "permanent" hardness (Ca++ & Mg++ ions) measured in degrees German, dKH "temporary" hardness (carbonate ions) measured in degrees German.

The permanent and temporary bits just mean that you can remove the temporary hardness by boiling the water, but this doesn't effect the "permanent" hardness. No, just use the <"Lenntech converter">, in the aquarium hobby hardness is nearly always quoted in German units. I wouldn't change it, it will eventually dissolved and the shrimps (and snails) will have a pick at it. I don't know, I eventually lost my Cherry shrimps, but this was due to a combination of feeding too many of them to the Cichlids and the water getting softer. I don't measure anything other than conductivity in the tanks, so I don't know what the hardness was, but we were probably down to 1 or 2 dGH/dKH.I've kept these but they definitely like <"cooler, softer water">.

cheers Darrel
thank you again Darrel sooty to batter you with all these questions. Do I out the cuttle bone in my filter? Once it desolves do I out a new one in? Thanks lee.
 
For cherry shrimp, I think GH 6 (6dGH) is usually the recommended minimum so you are right on the borderline. Darrel's suggestions are all good. If you google shrimp moulting problems you should find some photos that will help you know what to look out for.
 
For cherry shrimp, I think GH 6 (6dGH) is usually the recommended minimum so you are right on the borderline. Darrel's suggestions are all good. If you google shrimp moulting problems you should find some photos that will help you know what to look out for.
Thank you tam. I will have a look when I get bk from work.
 
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