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Is there an optimum lights on period for CRS Shrimp ?

Sound like a similar set-up to mine, no co2, well planted and only CRS stocked. I tend to concentrate on the well being of the plants, let me explain. If you have a healthy planted tank the eco environment within that tank (to an extent) takes care of it's self and in doing so the shrimp should do well. I have my lights (11w fitted as standard in the lid) on about 11hrs a day. I also use liquid carbo daily not sure it really does anything but I guess its better than nothing. I believe that It's all about water management getting a balance, get that right and you have cracked it. Once a week I do a minimal water change but before I do, I check the water parameters especially the nitrate level. I do these (liquid) tests one the day I'm do a water change and the day after the water change. In the vast majority cases I don't find any readings all are 0.00 including the nitrate. Hard to believe I know but what's happening is that the plants are doing the job of keeping the eco environment in balance. I do add a squirt of liquid fertilisers for the plants after each water change. My tank is not overgrown with algae the shrimp feed off the algae and once a week I put a small pinch of fish-food in as a treat for them.

Hope this helps
 
No specific period, just as you like it.

Aslong as your plants aren't covered in algae then it's alright.
If they do then raise light or lower intensity or time that they are on.
Sound like a similar set-up to mine, no co2, well planted and only CRS stocked. I tend to concentrate on the well being of the plants, let me explain. If you have a healthy planted tank the eco environment within that tank (to an extent) takes care of it's self and in doing so the shrimp should do well. I have my lights (11w fitted as standard in the lid) on about 11hrs a day. I also use liquid carbo daily not sure it really does anything but I guess its better than nothing. I believe that It's all about water management getting a balance, get that right and you have cracked it. Once a week I do a minimal water change but before I do, I check the water parameters especially the nitrate level. I do these (liquid) tests one the day I'm do a water change and the day after the water change. In the vast majority cases I don't find any readings all are 0.00 including the nitrate. Hard to believe I know but what's happening is that the plants are doing the job of keeping the eco environment in balance. I do add a squirt of liquid fertilisers for the plants after each water change. My tank is not overgrown with algae the shrimp feed off the algae and once a week I put a small pinch of fish-food in as a treat for them.

Hope this helps

Great pointers gents thank you.

I shall increase the light levels by a couple of hours and see what happens.

Thanks
R
 
A tip! don't do a gradual change do a drastic one. Go for the lights ON for 11hrs and see what happens that way if a change is going to happen it will do so sooner rather than later, then work backwards reduce that change for the result you want.
 
For what it's worth, I reckon nearly doubling the light from 6 to 11 hours in one go, will definitely lead to a change sooner rather than later.....
 
My best performing shrimp tanks seem to be the ones that have the most brown algae growth on the glass. Granted, not pretty to look at but if you can farm algae, then you'll find the shrimp thrive and baby survival will be much better :)
 
Maybe worth feeding a Bacter type product just to help maintain good bacteria levels.
 
Hi Basil
New one on me.
Go on. Would my bacteria diminish? Is this more beneficial to the plants, shrimp or both?
Thanks for the tip mate.
Roly


Something like this Roly,

Benibachi BeeMax | Hobby Shrimp
should improve your water quality in terms of bacteria and mirco organisms.
Smells DIVINE too!
 
In low ph the good bacteria struggles to colonise, so a helping hand with Bacter products is very useful. As Nath says, helps with water quality and improves shrimplet survival. It's good stuff and I'd thoroughly recommend getting some. Few brands out there doing the same thing, but I also like the Benibachi gear....I have the one that has to be kept in the freezer, which is some kind of strange reassurance for me that it's good tackle! :)
 
I use Genchem Biozyme and get good shrimplet survival. That Beemax looks interesting tho, may give it a go..
 
In low ph the good bacteria struggles to colonise, so a helping hand with Bacter products is very useful. As Nath says, helps with water quality and improves shrimplet survival. It's good stuff and I'd thoroughly recommend getting some. Few brands out there doing the same thing, but I also like the Benibachi gear....I have the one that has to be kept in the freezer, which is some kind of strange reassurance for me that it's good tackle! :)

Which one is that Mike? I feed mine a Mixture (not at same time :lol: ) of Benebachi SP, Genchem - White Pellet, JBL - NovoPrawn and Hikari - Shrimp Cuisine.


Mainly Benebachi, but the others for a variation in diet, as well as Catappa Leaves.
I do like the look of the JBL NovoPrawn though, seeing one of its main ingredients is nettles.

Cheers,
N
 
How are your shrimp Lindy?

Doing well, thanks Mike. Looking to get some wine reds now and maybe some pandas. The white on the Taiwans is just incredible. Also hoping to get some of George Farmers PRL if I'm lucky. I like the kingkongs but feel they'd just disappear on the dark substrate.

Have set up a high tech tank and going to try shrimp in it. I've bought a Sochting Oxydator to see if it makes the tank shrimp friendly despite co2.
 
Doing well, thanks Mike. Looking to get some wine reds now and maybe some pandas. The white on the Taiwans is just incredible. Also hoping to get some of George Farmers PRL if I'm lucky. I like the kingkongs but feel they'd just disappear on the dark substrate.

Have set up a high tech tank and going to try shrimp in it. I've bought a Sochting Oxydator to see if it makes the tank shrimp friendly despite co2.

Now I was reading into this Lindy, and it looks interesting, who recommended/ where did you see it initially? Especially as it oxidises the column without the displacement of co2, which in fact will lead to a vast amount of oxygen being available if plants are healthy.
 
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