Is this fin rot?

Raws69

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Hi noticed this on one of the platy, wasn’t sure if this is damage from nipping or rot? If so what action do you recommend I take? I don’t have an isolation tank yet.

btw yes this is a bio-orb, new to the hobby and fell for the looks over function. now Have a Ada 60x45 in week 5 of the cycle which will be their new home.

cheers
 

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Tim Harrison

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Difficult to tell from the image, but the fish don't look very happy. Can you try and capture a better image.
A full tank shot might be an idea as well, often there is a reason for disease.
 

alto

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There may be fin rot happening - can’t really tell from the photo ... BUT there are definite signs of external parasites

Depending on the BioOrb (60 litre?), fish load (platies don’t qualify in the typical “small slender fish” assumption made for fish/bio load recommendations) - the fish may do better if transferred to the new 60x 45 (x45? tall) aquarium

BUT if the new tank is nicely aquascaped, it’s not an ideal situation for treatment - bare tanks offer much better control of conditions, water volumes, medication “durability” and expected (chemical) activity, fish waste/food consumption etc
Plants can also respond adversely to medications (depending upon ingredients and duration of treatment)

At present,
- 25-50% water changes done every 12-24 hours (I’m wondering if there are water quality issues, eg, ammonia present)
- ich remedy such as eSHa Exit
- salt treatment for external parasites as most live bearers tolerate salt very well (eSHa Exit is likely a more efficient treatment, but you likely have suitable salt at hand)

Note if you guess correctly, you often see noticeable improvement within a couple hours, depending how ill fish may be ... also if the main infection is the external parasites or it the primary infection is internal (bacterial etc)

Live bearers also seem more likely to have mild “velvet” infections that respond to salt treatment
(Oödinium pilularis/Oödinium limneticum is not easy to eradicate except when the infection is mild)


 

Raws69

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Hi

sorry didn’t see these latest responses.

here’s a latest picture, I’ve not treated for anything as assumes it was damage in the end from nipping. But I’ve noticed the gap is increasing and there is no untoward behaviour in the other fish.

water parameters are good, 50% water changes each week.

the only salt I have is api aquarium salt, is this ok to use?

their new home I believe is ready and was looking to move them this weekend. as there are no signs of issues in the other fish, should I move them all (including the 5 fry) or leave this one in the death orb to treat?

lastly will salt affect the fry?
 

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Tim Harrison

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I think it could well be fin rot. Clamped fins is sign all is definitely not well. Platys aren't really know for nipping fins.
Either way I would dose with eSHa 2000 to be on the safe side, it's well tolerated, shrimp safe and effective.
 

sparkyweasel

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I’ve noticed the gap is increasing
More likely to be infected than just damaged: if it was damage it should be getting better rather than worse. It may have started as damage which allowed the infection to take hold. I would treat it as per @Tim Harrison's suggestion, - safe and effective sounds good. :)
 

Raws69

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Cheers everyone, some esha 2000 being delivered Sunday. Re the question about moving the other fish, assume I should now treat the whole tank and hold off moving them?
 

alto

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In your recent photo, the upper fish looks unhappy (unwell) and the lower fish looks very ill

API salt is fine

Salt will not negatively impact livebearer fry

How big is the Biorb? How many fish? Plants?

At this stage all fish have been exposed (I’m assuming you've only been following regular maintenance of 50% weekly water changes since Oct 7 post) so if you do move them to the ADA 60x45, you’ll need to continue treatment there
BUT
this move is still likely in the best interest of the fish re water quality, reduced fish density etc

Assuming the ADA 60H is planted, I’d suggest
- begin salt treatment in Biorb
- when eSHa EXIT and 2000 arrive, move fish to ADA 60 H and treat with medications there

Given the severity of fish symptoms, follow this eSHa protocol

Day 1: 50% water change without water conditioner.
eSHa 2000®: 25 drops /100l
eSHa EXIT: 20 drops /100l

Day 2: 50% water change without water conditioner and start the regular treatment eSHa 2000® and eSHa EXIT.
eSHa 2000®: 25 drops /100l
eSHa EXIT: 20 drops /100l

Day 3, 4,....:
eSHa 2000®:12 drops /100l
eSHa EXIT: 10 drops /100l
Continue adding this dosage until the problem is solved, however results have to be achieved.


Though as you’re in the UK where chlorine and/or chloramine may be added to treat water, ALWAYS use water conditioner, eg,
- 50% Water change with Prime etc
- dose medication 1 hour later

If possible, perform water change and add treatments after the photoperiod (sick fish are more comfortable in dim lighting, many medications are light sensitive)
 
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