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JBL CO2/PH computer

Hoskins said:
The PH drop will turn the gas off so I dont understand your point.

say if you didnt have the computer... Injecting CO2 causes the pH to drop, and CO2 levels rise. Before the pH gets dangerously low (ie. <5.5pH) the CO2 will already be at 40ppm+ and your fish will be gassed and killed from the CO2 level, not the pH level.

So in affect, there is no need to be wary of the pH dropping to much, hence no need for the computer.

Does that make sense?

Thanks.
 
no, not really! ;0)

the ph controller reacts pretty quickly, unlike a drop checker! so it'd be fine as lone as the .1 drop needed to turn it off was still within "safe" limits.

i have been wandering how much the ph in the tank was influenced by organic acids etc, so, as a little test last night i left out a cup of tap water (that my tank is obviously filled with) and a cup of tank water.

i measured both with my ph probe today.
tap water was 7.82
tank water 7.68
now both would have had the same levels of co2 present, so that kinda proved to me what i've recently been told and that is not to use the ph/kh/co2 chart as being accurate!
 
aaronnorth said:
Hoskins said:
The PH drop will turn the gas off so I dont understand your point.

say if you didnt have the computer... Injecting CO2 causes the pH to drop, and CO2 levels rise. Before the pH gets dangerously low (ie. <5.5pH) the CO2 will already be at 40ppm+ and your fish will be gassed and killed from the CO2 level, not the pH level.

So in affect, there is no need to be wary of the pH dropping to much, hence no need for the computer.

Does that make sense?

Thanks.

I appreciate that its not the ph that kills but the level of CO2 but although not directly linked there is a correlation between the two. The other point is that my ph does not drop below 6.33 with a kh of 2 so that my co2 levels could not get into the dangerous range.
 
Hi,

After using this PH controller for the last year and a bit on my main tank the probe finally broke putting forward my intended removal of it from the tank.

Before the controller had only been putting on the CO2 in a burst for a couple of hours a day with the drop checker showing green most of the time.

I just took out the ph controller and directly connected the solinoid to the timer on my small light for 9 hours constant a day. Turned down the CO2 a touch to allow a nice lime green colour to light green transistion during the day.

Result...

The tiny amount of remaining algae i had is dissapearing, the tank is pearling it's ass off like it never has before, half way through the light cycle. Fish are loving it. Plants are loving it. I wish id taken it off a year ago.

Best Regards,

John

p.s sorry for the spelling, i'm a touch drunk. :D
 
LondonDragon said:
hijac said:
p.s sorry for the spelling, i'm a touch drunk. :D
Does this mean we can't take your review seriously either??? :lol: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Just a touch drunk. ;)

Sober now and i'll stand by my comments. :D
 
Ouch,

I have been reading this thread and just figured out i have an expensive ph meter but not something that really does my planted tank any good ( Sera ph controller ). I also read Tom Barrs post http://www.barrreport.com/articles/...2-indicators-why-how.html?highlight=test+kits and now understand. I remember when i dosed the tank the other night the PH controller within moments turned of the co2 ( i remember thinking i wonder if these chemicals are effecting PH).
Jeesh the learning curve feel very steep but i wish to once again express my gratitude for this site and all the contributers.

On a side note my tank looks like a bit of a jungle as i just bought about 20 plants and " threw " them in semi arranged. My wife being used to the old tank ( 3 token plants ) is like " Wow , stop worrying about it i think it looks great " ) so i pointed her to this site and some of your tanks and she was like get crackin !

Cheers.
 
Hello. Ph controller not so bad ;) , but need proper dropchecker even
1) Gives good monitoring 24/7
2) Without controller If big water volume and high flow, good water surface movement is very very hard gain necessary amount co2 when lights go on(cause algeas, ph swings e.g.)

Best Option - personaly for me
400L tank
controller 24/7
setup on 6.95(this point reach only sometimes in night time, maybe twice)
180 bubles/min constant rate and ph controller always under 6.95 in daytime and swing are only +-0.01
just need find proper constant bubble caunt and proper reach limit in ph.
In daytime if proper adjusted ph controller gives co2 non stop.
If will be any stop in daytime then You get co2/ph swing and if cheap china controller then realy big swing.
So need constant bubble rate adjusted.
For sample in my situation, If difference in setup on limit 7.00 PH and keeping same amount of bubbles then swing in daytime will be +-0.03 - 0.05
need proper bubble and ph limit adjusting

Good Luck with adjusting.
 
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