you can use that as well, just take off the "Add 0.9 gram Na2MoO4*2H2O" from the recipe and replace it with "Add 0.615 gram (NH4)6Mo7O24"well, i could. but i could only buy ~500g and that was like 20 pounds.... more than the rest of the salts which im not willing to pay. (NH4)6Mo7O24 should work though right?
Think you illustrate the concept of localized nutrition: substrate, water (contingent on flow), light.Vin's AGA presentation is great, I think it was Happi that provided the link to me (others may have also posted the lnik). But I had started off by reading Vin's original Rotala Kill Tank thread and yes, I have gone through every page pity some of the photo links are no longer working. Rotala Kill Tank
Regarding the issue of stunting... i have stunted and unstunted stems in my tank at the same time, as well as wrinkled and unwrinkled Ammannia Golden. I can also occasionally stunt Wallichii in my high tech tank through too much fiddling with the parameters while Wallichii grows perfectly normal in my low tech with boring stable parameters 😅
My working thesis is that it is possible for plants to adapt (within a certain range) but sometimes its just luck (or complex interactions).
For example, Happi mentioned that Ammannias will stunt with the Tropica clone formula - but I believe that Tropica dosing is 'low enough' such that even if several stems stunt, there will be some stems that mysteriously do not. (The instagram link showed the user saying that he uses Tropica levels of dosing)
Surely that’s what Tropica does. This is what a lot of people do actually - heard this a few times: “I grow plants I can grow and scape with them”. Others are obsessed with growing every single one 😂.Focus on those stems that do not stunt, propagate them, and you should end up with a whole tank full of stems that can 'accept' Tropica levels of dosing?
Pretty amazing IMHO. High light, no CO2... +2 years... would love to know in great details what's going on here... water parameters, dosing etc.
Maybe not great detail but I found a comment on one of the facebook groups that outlines his setup.would love to know in great details what's going on here...
Sudipta Shaw - Author
I have listed some of the key things about this setup below which all play an integrated role to keep the plants healthy for longer period of time.
I setup this tank on June 16, 2019.
I use remineralized ro-di water, the pH is about 5.75; GH - 5-6 and KH - 0-1. Most plants in the hobby prefer softwater.
I regularly maintain the tank by gently removing the debris from the substrate (Amazonia light) and perform about 40% weekly water change.
I have a decent light (chihiros wrgb2 60cm) which helps as well. I leave the lights on for 7 hours per day (100-55-70% of red-green-blue) including 30 minutes of ramp up and down times during the start and end of photo period.
I am using an all in one liquid fertilizer (ThriveS) which I add 2-3 times a week (2-3 mL every time). I also occasionally insert individual osmocote root balls deep under the substrate below some of the demanding plants.
I have an oversized hob filter (aquaclear 70) for my 20 gal tank which circulates the water pretty efficiently throughout the tank and also provides decent surface agitation. I try to clean the filter every month.
Last but not the least, I don't have a heater in this tank which helps to maintain a relatively lower temperature for most of the year (72-76 F). Higher temperature not only decreases the solubility of gases such as O2 and CO2 but it also increases the metabolism rate of plants. Since there is no pressurized CO2 injection, the availability of already low dissolved CO2 decreases significantly. This along with higher metabolism rate of plants make it very difficult to grow them nicely. I didn't conduct a scientific experiment to prove my last point but I have observed my plants struggling in all of my non-CO2 supplemented tanks (I have 5 various sizes of non-CO2 supplemented tanks) during summer when temperature increases to 80 and sometime even surpasses 80F.
Let me know if you want to know anything else.
Maybe not great detail but I found a comment on one of the facebook groups that outlines his setup.
You may have to be a member of the group High-Tech Planted Tanks
I'll take the liberty of posting the text of the comment here:
Seems like hes doing pretty by-the-book lean non-CO2 from this comment. It does sound like he knows what hes doing though.
Disclaimer: I do not know this person, only saw the tanks on facebook at a passing glance.
High light, lean column, rich substrate (edit: potential varying N source, glut etc — low KH water all this stuff inadvertently influences how the co2 demand on the system is being met). Is also old … 2.5 years of microbiology, adaptations, stability etc.
You can also see HOB positioning favors flow pattern … conscious decisions.
very good stuff, if anyone hasn't seen marian's tanks, please do yourself a favour and check out his youtube channelYes, he is the guy behind masterline
Which information you looking for? Usually they do list their numbers in ppm on back of the Bottle.When it comes to all-in-one, my preference is to get whichever is the 'cheapest' (based on the amount of nutrients per ml). In my country APT EI has an ok price so thats my choice. For UK, TNC Complete looks relatively cheap while I understand USA there is Nilocg.
If the All-in-one fert doesn't disclose how much fert they contain, a comparison is impossible, in which case I wouldn't even want to consider it.
Laziness. I hated having to take a few minutes to make new ferts instead of 2 mouseclicks and wait a day. Its insane I know. That is the sort of society we are becoming. I'm paying a lot extra to not have that minor hassle, yet I pay it with a smile knowing I wont have to make new ferts at a moment that I dont really have time for it (which to be fair is always since I hate doing it).Making all in one of your own is very simple, I don't see the reason to purchase any of those listed fertilizer when all in one can be easily made at home.
I have the same sentiments... One bottle a year isn't going to break the bank for me (500ml bottle, 1.2ml a day - probably going down to 1ml a day).Laziness. I hated having to take a few minutes to make new ferts instead of 2 mouseclicks and wait a day. Its insane I know. That is the sort of society we are becoming. I'm paying a lot extra to not have that minor hassle, yet I pay it with a smile knowing I wont have to make new ferts at a moment that I dont really have time for it (which to be fair is always since I hate doing it).