I must admit that's quite surprising to me, I had similar symptoms on Lobelia and Alternanthera when using hard tap water (packed with Cl and Na) - once I've switched to RO (re-mineralised, with only tiny amounts of Na/Cl), dark edges were gone.Hmm, even though this issue began while I was purely using RO water with Seachem minerals?
If it's even a small necrosis, no chance they will recover, only can get worse (tissue in those areas is dead).Not sure whether the affected leaves would recover at all of perhaps it will just stop getting worse?
Hmm, assuming you have lightly planted tank and Nitrate between 10-20ppm I'd rather say it's more than enough, with the amounts of plants I see on you photos I'd never add more than 5ppm of NO3 weekly (and other ferts accordingly)Punching my numbers in to https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php suggests I might not be using enough ferts.
I wouldn't make any assumptions. Your tap water NO3- level will change throughout the year. In the winter, when the farm animals are inside, it rains a lot and arable crops aren't getting any fertiliser, levels will be a lot lower. You usually get a nitrate spike in spring once the grass etc is growing again. Farmers use a cumulative temperature index as an indication of when to start adding nitrogen to their crops. You get these variations even in large conurbations, because surface and groundwater travels considerable distances.has around 20ppm of Nitrates. So using a 50/50 cut with RO that's giving me around 10ppm plus whatever is generated in the tank from fish waste etc, so I figure I don't need to add any nitrogen.
Personally, even for a small tank, I'd use dry salts rather than branded fertilisers. I'm often asked if a particular fertiliser is "any good" or whether "brand x is better than brand y", and I always tell people that every potassium (K+) ion is the same as every other K+ ion, they don't "know" that they came from ADA or Seachem's finest.Epsom Salts, cheap and readily available.
Iron is a little bit different to most nutrients. When you add potassium nitrate (KNO3) you know it has gone into solution as a 1:1 ratio of K+ and NO3- ions, and that those ions will remain in solution. It is different with iron (Fe), nearly all its compounds are insoluble and whether it is plant available depends on the hardness and pH of the water <"and the chelator"> used.So it really looks like I'm good or even a little overdosed on Iron
Epsom Salts, cheap and readily available.
I wouldn't make any assumptions.
Personally, even for a small tank, I'd use dry salts rather than branded fertilisers.
I agree there is likely to be quite a lot of nitrate in your tap water, and it is unlikely that your plants are short of nitrogen.drop testing shows at least 20ppm of Nitrates in my tap water...........there will be at least 10ppm in my tank water, slightly more the last time I tested it
I understand there are issues with obtaining nitrates, due to their potential use as explosives.contacted the supplier and he said that unfortunately due to 'the current climate' and no longer being able to send potassium nitrate via the post, he has had to stop supplying the salts
It is just easier to diagnose deficiencies from floating plants, I like them, but know not every-one feels the same. In hard water iron (Fe) and magnesium (Mg) are likely deficiencies, mainly because of interactions with calcium (Ca++) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ions.That is what I am doing. I don't want floating weeds in my tank, but, I have been saying here for some time now that I think I have an issue due to the poor health of my Lobelia Cardinalis.
No, you probably don't have to add that much.So really I'm hoping someone with more experience than me can look at the numbers I posted above and tell me whether the proposed new dosing levels look reasonable based on those calculations/assumptions. I'm looking at increasing my weekly potassium dose by a factor of 8x and phosphorus by a factor of 37x
I think that is a good idea. They are all nutrients that are mobile within the plant, so if one or more of them was deficient you should get a quick greening and growth.I've added an emergency dose of 3.5ppm Mg, 1.25ppm PO4 and 3.7ppm K - at this point I need to stop things deteriorating?
You are fine. There isn't a direct relationship between ppm you've measured and the ppm you've added, there should be but the meter actually measures electrical conductivity and then converts it to an approximate TDS reading. Some ions are better conductors of electricity than other ones.This raised the measured TDS by around + 25ppm so it seems like the nutrients contain other elements in addition to those targeted, or the numbers are wrong?
I'm not an EI, or CO2, user, in my case I'm not interested in optimal plant growth, I just want some growth. The analogy I would use is EI is a <"vegetable growing approach">, I'm looking more to grow orchids or succulents.I don't really want to use the EI method as long term 50% weekly water changes are not going to work for me. Weekly changes of ~20% will be much more achievable.
That is right, if you want to keep everything in solution you need to acidify the solution to a a low pH. If you don't acidify the solution you need to keep the iron (Fe++) and phosphate (PO4---) ions separate. Have a look at @X3NiTH's posts in <"DIY Fertilizer Formula...">.The only issue is I seem to remember from dipping in to basic hydroponic veg growing that you can't mix all nutrients in to one 'complete' blend as interactions between different compounds can cause specific nutrients to bond and form insoluble compounds which 'drop out' of the solution. That's why various hydroponic nutrients come divided in to 'A' and 'B' bottles.
It might be a light intensity effect now it has surfaced, or it might be the start of iron deficiency. This is iron deficiency in Hygrophila corymbosa, (photo by @sciencefiction) <"EI dosing......"> .I noticed that the upper leaves on one of the newer plants (Tropica - Hygrophila 'Siamensis 53B'), which have started to show some of the same dark green blotching, are turning pale and translucent. My impression has been that this is the expected 'transition' from an air reared plant to underwater growth. It's been in the tank for a few weeks now and the top leaves have just about reached the surface.
If the water was warmer at 19:00? That may account for the difference.it was reading around 395, then at about 7pm it was reading 410; so still really just hovering around the same sort of reading as yesterday
Yes, it does. All plants (even things like Cacti) can only take up nutrients as ions from solution.Thinking on my experiences with growing tomatoes and chillis using hydroponics, the Ph is very important in terms of allowing proper uptake of nutrients. If the Ph of the nutrient solution is too high many essential nutrients are 'locked out' and cannot be absorbed by the plant leading to deficiencies even if the nutrient is abundant in the solution. I seem to remember something around Ph 5.6-6 was a sweet spot to be targeted. Does the same issue not occur in planted aquariums?
It is back to the <"Donald Rumsfeld's "unknown unknowns">, but it is certainly feasible and my suspicion would be, at least part of, the answer.I've seen reference to people noticing that their plants respond well to a low KH - but perhaps what's really going on there is that the low KH leads to a lower Ph (when the CO2 is on) and that's what's actually causing the plants to take up nutrients and respond well?
We have a lot of <"threads about this">, the problem is that it is really only aquascapers who add the nitrate (NO3-) ion from a salt (usually KNO3), rather than it being the "smoking gun" of previously high levels of the, definitely toxic, ammonia (NH3/NH4+) and nitrite (NO2-).Now the opinions on what levels of nitrates are toxic (or even unpleasant) for fish and shrimp seem to be mixed, as are opinions on whether nitrates from added nutrients are really the same as nitrates from the bacteria based filter cycle.
No you are fine, plants can take up all forms of fixed nitrogen (NH3/NH4+, NO2- & NO3-) and every NO3- ion is the same as every other NO3- ion.But perhaps the nitrates in the tap water are not a form that is useful or easily absorbed by the plants meaning that they are only really getting nitrogen from the fish cycle - which may not be enough. Is this something that's possible?
It was just mention of <"new leaves"> that made me wonder <"about iron (Fe)">.but it also might be N/Mg deficiency which are the ingredients of the chlorophyll
cheers DarrelHears a pic of my Fe deficiency
Hey @dw1305 , yes, that what I was thinking of, generally when I see yellow or very bright leaves leaves I think of Fe/N/Mg (depending on the leaves age).but the colour of the plant suggests that there maybe other issues as well.