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Melting from the stem.

Muaaz

New Member
Joined
17 Sep 2022
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11
Location
Pakistan
My nymphaea lotus plant is metling from the stems. However, I can see new leaves and stems are growing but old ones are melting. It's almost 3 weeks I planted them in my aquarium.
I have faced this stem rot before with my other type of plants. I am afraid same will not happen with them. With my old aquarium I have faced the same issue, all my plants started to melt from stem and kept growing from the top and eventually the died.
I keep the light on for 8-10 hours and providing liquid fertilizer once a week. And the water temperature is 28°C (because I live in a hot area).
I have posted some of the pictures below.
 

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Did you cycle the tank before planting?
 
Did you cycle the tank before planting?
@_Maq_ yes it's a cycled tank. I I already had fish in it.
What I think is wrong that the temperature is high (28°C).
One more thing I observed today is some or my duck weed is turning white.
 
Stems tend to rot because they are lacking something, human nature tells us to migrate when conditions aren't correct, why wouldn't plants do the same.

What fertiliser are you adding.
 
Temperature increase is definitely a potentially dangerous development. Through a sequence of causes and effects it can hinder nitrification. Ammonia may appear.
Apart from oxygenation, another way to fight ammonia danger (and decrease microbial activity and respiration) is decreasing pH a bit through adding a drop of strong mineral acid (sulfuric of hydrochloric). I said 'a drop' because utmost caution is necessary (depending on your alkalinity).
 
@John q I am using this fertilizer as it is available here. It contains micros and macros.
 

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Temperature increase is definitely a potentially dangerous development. Through a sequence of causes and effects it can hinder nitrification. Ammonia may appear.
Apart from oxygenation, another way to fight ammonia danger (and decrease microbial activity and respiration) is decreasing pH a bit through adding a drop of strong mineral acid (sulfuric of hydrochloric). I said 'a drop' because utmost caution is necessary (depending on your alkalinity).
@_Maq_ This temperature is constant. However, I am trying to move my aquarium to some other room which is much colder (26°C). Also I don't see any issues with ammonia as my fish are doing very well.
 
@John q I am using this fertilizer as it is available here. It contains micros and macros.
Looks like a complete fertiliser so that's a plus, although I've no idea what it contains. Can you provide a picture of the floating plants? It might be helpful to our resident floating plant expert to help answer your question.
 
Looks like a complete fertiliser so that's a plus, although I've no idea what it contains. Can you provide a picture of the floating plants? It might be helpful to our resident floating plant expert to help answer your question.
@John q This lotus leave is a newly grown. And for the duckweed you can see some of them turning white and have holes.
 

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@X3NiTH Not much is written on the bottle just this. And on Google I found this.
I think the temperature and lack of some nutrients could be the issue.
I should try root tabs and lower the light intensity.
 

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I think you need to stop worrying about the temperature, it’s the nutrition you need to worry about, a dosing rate of once per week and you are seeing nutritional deficiencies causing structural problems in plant tissue, you need to either split the current dose and dose more frequently ie 10ml/100L 4x per week so that whatever nutrient is becoming unavailable by the end of the week causing plants to suffer is more frequently available in the water column.

40ml/100L dosing rate for this product tells me that it’s fairly dilute and no doubt will be increasingly expensive if you need to increase the dosage beyond the current recommendation to keep your plants happy, you can see quite a fair bit of aerial roots being produced so the plant is looking for ways to increase its ability to sequester nutrition, a root tab placed under this plant may help increase this plants health but it won’t do anything for your floating plants if the nutrition doesn’t reach the water column.

It might be worth trying to source a fertiliser that states it’s complete list of nutritional content and total amounts whether as percentage of bottle content or ppm/mgL per dose and also any chelates used to keep nutrients available longer.

Without any statement about nutritional content this fertiliser is a mystery bottle designed to increasingly part you of your money!

:)
 
Hi all,
Without any statement about nutritional content this fertiliser is a mystery bottle designed to part you of your money!
Only too true unfortunately.
My nymphaea lotus plant is metling from the stems.
They aren't actually stems (I know they look like them), they are "petioles" the <"basal portion of the leaf"> (the round bit is the "lamina"), so the plant is really shedding leaves, rather than stems.
And for the duckweed you can see some of them turning white and have holes.
Your Duckweed (Lemna minor) looks OK, have a look at <"Micronutrient toxicity.. or deficiency.. ? Pls help.">. I use a floating plant to diagnose nutrient deficiencies, mainly because it has access to aerial CO2. Have a look at <"Frogbit taken a turn">.

cheers Darrel
 
It looks like the nymphaea was uprooted, a bunch of roots are exposed, there is one growing vertically upward. I also see what looks like an osmocote capsule.

If you changed the plant recently in such a way, it is possible that it will shed its leaves in protest, but the new ones should be ok.
 
Thanks @X3NiTH that makes total sense. I will increase the fertilizer dose and will also try to find a better fertilizer. ✌️
 
@dw1305 hey this is how my tank is doing after some weeks. You can see my Amazon sword is also turning yellow and for the lotus, these are all new Leaves thes you can see one of them is also melting. One of the floating lotus leaf is already melted.
Also, I can see some black algae growing on some of my plants.
The yellowing of leaves can be due to the lack of some nutrients like potassium and/or iron.
 

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Hi all,
The yellowing of leaves can be due to the lack of some nutrients like potassium and/or iron.
Yes it can be, iron (Fe) deficiency is an <"easy one to diagnose">, but deficiencies in mobile nutrients (like potassium (K)) are more difficult to diagnose, but once you've found the <"missing link"> greening and growth happens really quickly.

Do you have any plecs in the tank? The leaf on the left look like it might have <"Bristlenose (Ancistrus)"> damage.

img_20221005_203325-jpg.jpg


cheers Darrel
 
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