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microsorum pteropus (narrow)

bazz

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24 Jan 2009
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136
Location
Lincoln
friday night i upgraded the filter on my 30l nano (with pressurised co2) from a resun cyclone external to a ecco pro 130 and started to dose easycarbo, in responce to a problem i was encountering with the lower leaves on my pogostamon helferi turning yellow and beginning to dissolve. however, across the tank sat on a piece of bogwood was a mp (narrow) taking the blast from the outlet of the lily pipe. unnoticed for a couple of days (because it seemed to start from within the middle of the plant) the leaves started to black and opaque, and obviously became very unhealthy. does anyone know if this plant doesn't like easycarbo and/or rapid water movement?
i've since moved it across the other side of the tank and cut virtually all the leaves off (apart from 5 or 6 that did not apperar to be affected), also will it recover, or should i just ditch it?
cheers and thanx,
bazz!
 

ceg4048

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Hi,
Liquid carbon normally only fixes carbon related issues. Yellowing of leaves is not generally associated with carbon deficiency but is related to Nitrogen or Iron deficiencies. Ferns typically cope with Liquid carbon pretty well. It might be better if you can give a few more specifics of your tank configuration and dosing regime as there may be several issues in play.

Cheers,
 

bazz

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Lincoln
hi
it is a dennerle 30 liter nano cube (30cm x 30cm x 35cm h, empty) with a eheim ecco pro 130 external filter, cal aqua nano lily pipes (which i now know are not deep enough for the tank) and pressurized co2 through a diffuser bubbling up into the inflow from the lily pipe, the outflow is in the adjacent corner creating a whirlpool effect. the light is the gereric 11w compact that came with it, (i recently bought an arcadia arc-lamp, tube but found it to be nowhere near as bright and changed it back soon after). i dose 1/2 ml (15 drops) of tpn every other day, and just started dosing 15 drops of easycarbo daily! the echinodorus harbii is a picture of health and 6 stems of pogostamon stellata are also healthy looking albeit they are green, the hc carpet (at the front) seems to come and go healthwise!
cheers and thanx for your time knowledge!

ps i am rigging up a spraybar and deeper outflow as we speak!
 

ceg4048

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Hi,
If your tap water is marginal in NPK content then it might be better to use TPN+ instead of TPN which is only composed of trace elements. The yellowing could be a sign of Nitrogen deficiency. Experiment with different positioning of the spray bar to see which gives a better flow distribution.

Cheers,
 

bazz

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24 Jan 2009
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Lincoln
yes, thanx!
it is obvious really, i use a ro unit. i have 8 microrasboras in there, but i don't overfeed and the 6 japonica's leave no bit of grit unturned, there will be virtually no n&p!
i am off to order the ingredients for ei this weekend, but still researching exactly what to order. everyone seems to have at least one slight variation, and know i'm a sucker for opting for the things. anyway maybe this should be a different thread!
thanx!
 

ceg4048

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Well, the reason there are variations is because each tank is different, each persons water is different and the stocking, feeding and maintenance are different so variation is not surprising at all.

What you might think about is studying the basic dosing regime as outlined in the Tutorial: EI DOSING USING DRY SALTS

You'll see that the basic components for NPK are Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) and any trace element mix, which you seem to already have. If you are using RO water then by doing so you would have removed Calcium and Magnesium. You can reconstitute the RO water by using any of the commercial products such as Seachem Equilibrium, but you can also use GH Booster which is much cheaper. GH Booster will provide the required levels of Calcium and Magnesium.

Cheers,
 
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