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Moss help... why oh why does it fail??

Iain Sutherland

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UKAPS Team
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Ok, so i just bought some flame moss from daniel19831123 and need some advise.

I have had java moss and christmas moss, both in my 55g med light ( 2 x 54w T5 HO) co2, EI tank. Both of which fail. They dont grow much, wont attach to the wood they are tied or superglue to and they have always ended up with heaps of hair/thread algae and go brown underneath with just a tiny thin layer of green on top.
At the moment i do nothing with it after it has been tied onto bogwwod.
Should i be trimming it?? I have tried it in shaded spots and in 'high light' spots (closer to lights) but no :twisted:
Does moss need high flow over it to stop it filling with debris??

any advise would be great as i cant tollerate being continuously defeated by moss when i have good success with most other plants..

Please help
 
I think shrimp help loads with moss, debris is abut of a killer with moss.
 
easerthegeezer said:
..I have had java moss and christmas moss, both in my 55g med light ( 2 x 54w T5 HO) co2, EI tank. Both of which fail. They dont grow much, wont attach to the wood they are tied or superglue to and they have always ended up with heaps of hair/thread algae...
This is an undeniable signal that the plat is suffering from poor CO2 uptake for the given lighting level.

easerthegeezer said:
...and go brown underneath with just a tiny thin layer of green on top.
Browning and decaying of plants always means poor CO2 uptake for the given lighting level.

easerthegeezer said:
Does moss need high flow over it to stop it filling with debris??
Debris becomes irrelevant as long as CO2 uptake is good to excellent. Reduce your lighting intensity, improve distribution , increase injection rate (assuming it is within the fishes tolerance limit) and add liquid carbon (assuming no other plants are present that respond poorly to liquid carbon).

Moss is a low light plant. When pummeled with high photonic energy it fails miserably unless force fed with CO2. Success with any given plant has nothing to do with success with another. Each plant requires a different level of CO2 and nutrients when placed under duress from high energy. Once satisfied with adequate CO2, growth will accelerate to fill the area it is attached to.

Cheers,
 
Thanks Ceg this make a lot of sense, i often wonder if i get enough co2 into the water as i had a bad experience when i started and lost some bamboo shrimp and a gourami, i had plenty of co2 but no surface movement so no o2. This makes me a little nervous about turning it up much. I often also feel my co2 concentrations are higher at one end of the tank but this could be paranoia. My drop checker goes light green though?

Im quite tempted with an inline diffuser but the one i have should be good - dennerle cyclo turbo-
http://www.aquajardin.co.uk/product/158 ... 56d0f54190

You think it is worth going inline?? aside from the obvious benefit of less kit in the tank...

thanks again
 
Well, poor CO2 is manifest in various forms. It's entirely possible that your injection rate is OK, but that your flow rate and method of distribution is poor.It can easily be that certain locations in the tank have adequate CO2 and that other locations are virtually starved of CO2. This happens all the time, so having a green dropchecker is not the ultimate indicator.

Distribution techniques also affect the "When" of CO2 concentration level, so that the CO2 concentration at a particular location is poor at lights on but OK at lights off. Since CO2 at lights on is much more important than it is near lights off, it's very easy to be deluded into thinking that your overall CO2 is OK, when in fact it might be highly problematic.

Getting good growth performance therefore means that you need to solve the "How", "Where" and "When" riddles of your tank. So although inline devices are generally better than in-tank diffusers, if your flow rate and distribution methods are sloppy you can still have lots of problems.

easerthegeezer said:
i often wonder if i get enough co2 into the water as i had a bad experience when i started and lost some bamboo shrimp and a gourami, i had plenty of co2 but no surface movement so no o2
This is another misconception regarding planted tanks. Plants, when healthy oxygenate the water much more than can ever be achieved by surface movement or aeration, therefore it is impossible that the shrimp died due to poor surface movement. The shrimp died of CO2 toxicity which affect their ability to use the Oxygen that is present.

There are a couple of possible reasons shrimp are more sensitive to CO2 than fish. The first possible reason is that shrimp have an "Open Circulatory System", whereas fish have a "Closed Circulatory System". A closed system means that blood is contained within tubing and it is always kept separated from the tissues. Tissues are bathed in their own fluid produced by the Lymph system. That means blood never actually touches the tissue. Oxygen is delivered to the tissue by small capillaries in a "drive-by" fashion, wherein the Oxygen diffuses through the thin walls of the capillary, and CO2 diffused from the tissues into the capillary. This closed system ensures positive gas and nutrient delivery and positive waste collection. It's very efficient. On the other hand, in an Open System such as inverts typically have, there are no blood vessels, no tubes. The tissues are bathed in a combination of blood and lymph fluids. The heart is in a fluid filled cavity and the liquid squirts out into other cavities surrounding the tissue. In some cases the animal has to move it's limbs in order to help squeeze the cavities and to get the fluid back to the heart. Oxygen has to work it's way through the cavities and CO2 has to work it's way out DIY fashion. This renders the shrimp less able to positively rid itself of CO2.

A second possibility is that fishes blood uses a specific Oxygen transport protein called Hemoglobin, which is constructed of an Iron base and is a very efficient Oxygen carrier. Shrimp blood uses a much less efficient protein called Hemocyanin and this protein is copper based. It's very efficient at cold temperatures but much less so at tropical temperatures. As the fluid in the shrimp becomes more acid due to CO2 the Hemocyanin, which is already not very efficient, becomes even less capable of attracting and carrying Oxygen to the tissues. So gas exchange would become more difficult for inverts than it is for fish.

As a result of their greater susceptibility to hypoxia and hypercapnia therefore, shrimp are best kept in a Non-CO2 environment, but if you are injecting CO2 you need to be much more attentive to maximizing the efficiency of CO2 delivery to the plants by having high flow, excellent and even distribution which will generate more Oxygen from a lower gas concentration level.

Cheers,
 
Holy moly, thanks a lot, how do you possibly know all this??
It is extreemly nice to actually understand what has been happening from a scientific point of view rather than the visual effects and best guesses!!
I had a pretty long post about this situation when it was happening on a US forum and it seems i was at least partially mis-informed. *edit* or misunderstood :)
I think that is what i love about this forum.. it seems to be mostly the very experienced aquarists that post highly informative replies rather than just anyone who is bored at home....
If you hadnt guessed ive had never owned an aquarium before January.

So is it not true that good surface movement is crutcial for a certain amount of co2 to off gas to stop a dangerous build up?? and to add o2..
I have just changed my set up so that my second filter has a spraybar 1cm above the water to create some surface agitation , was that a waste of time?
My drop cheker is at the opposite end of the tank than the reactor and is light green before lights on, with a Tunze 6045 powerhead at 1500l/h on its lowest setting directly above it.
I do feel im doing most things right but just bloody moss keeps disapointing... it just so happened i was at my LFS today and they had a lovely new coconut completely covered in taiwan moss so i bought it and drilled a hole in the front for my Kribs instead of the ugly terracotta pot i cant get moss to grow on :( I never thought i would 'cheat' like this but i have changed my opinion of pre attached plants somewhat!

Oh well, i had a big clear out today ready for some new plants coming from TGM tomorrow so we will see how it all goes... im hoping i can stop messing around with my 55g soon. You never know i might even be brave and post some pics at some point.

Thankyou everyone for all your help.
 
easerthegeezer said:
..So is it not true that good surface movement is crutcial for a certain amount of co2 to off gas to stop a dangerous build up?? and to add o2..
I have just changed my set up so that my second filter has a spraybar 1cm above the water to create some surface agitation , was that a waste of time?
Having good water movement at the surface has more to do with breaking up the surface film that can accumulate. The agitation does help with gas exchange at night but during the photoperiod it is not the primary means of controlling the CO2 concentration level at all. That is controlled by your injection rate, which has a much greater impact. On the contrary, you want to preserve the CO2 concentration in the tank because that's what keeps the plants healthy and it's also what helps to make them produce more Oxygen. This is why it is suggested to have surface agitation but not to break the surface with bubbles or splashing because that drives off too much CO2. When plants produce Oxygen it causes a higher concentration of Oxygen in the water column. Agitating the surface too much actually accelerates the departure of this Oxygen as well as the departure of CO2, which is a double whammy. In un-planted tanks the situation is opposite because there are no Oxygen producing entities, only Oxygen consuming entities, therefore the Oxygen content of the water tends to be lower. In that case, strong agitation of the surface and other standard procedures such as air bubbles accelerate the replacement of the consumed Oxygen so that Oxygen diffuses from atmosphere to water more easily. So the people giving advice about surface agitation have this in mind but they don't realize that plants saturate the water with Oxygen so there is rarely an Oxygen deficit when you have a tankful of healthy plants.

Have a look at this photo of a Lily leaf. Can you see the bubbles accumulating on the lower surface? These are pure Oxygen molecules being pumped out of the leaf. This is one of the first stages of photosynthesis where the plant severs the bond between Hydrogen and Oxygen in water molecules (H20). The Hydrogen (H+) is retained and is used in important later stages of photosynthesis, but the excess Oxygen is allowed to escape. All land and aquatic plants, as well as all algae and photosynthesizing bacteria (like BGA) perform this function continuously during the lighting period. The bubble formation, or "pearling" as it's called, is an obvious sign of the process but it isn't an essential phenomenon. Oxygen production still occurs with or without the pearling. This is why the water becomes saturated with Oxygen and why it's a far superior method of water oxygenation than surface agitation could ever hope to be. There is no point therefore over-agitating the water and thereby losing these precious pearls.
2001919250038170470S600x600Q85.jpg


easerthegeezer said:
...My drop cheker is at the opposite end of the tank than the reactor and is light green before lights on, with a Tunze 6045 powerhead at 1500l/h on its lowest setting directly above it...
Well, again we can't see your setup so it's unclear how you are distributing the flow. We need to see photos or diagrams of your distribution method. We're not looking for world beating scapes at this point, just something to illustrate your configuration.

Cheers,
 
Thanks Ceg, again brilliantly informative, i always thought pearling was excess CO2 being released! I do get some light pearling at the end of the day, mainly from my anubias, but also from the other plants but it mostly seems to come from the points were i have cut stems when trimming...?
I will post a couple of pics once i get home tonight to show the set up as im at work now :)
It sounds like i might have a day of fiddling with my spray bar some more tomorrow then after getting new plants in.

If it was easy it would be boring i guess!!

Thanks again Ceg
 
Ok, so here is a pic with some terrible markers....
IMG_0629-1.jpg


The co2 reactor as a tap to allow some flow to be directional instead of all coming straight out the bottom of the reactor which blows out under itself towards the gravel.
aquarium14-1.jpg


The powerhead does 1500l/h blows along the substrate at the front of the tank and towards the opposite end along the acrylic, due to the amount it draws from behind it creates a circular current as you can see from the direction the plants.
The flow does hit a pretty solid face on the bogwood so one end is a bit calmer but the two intakes stop there being a 'dead' spot.
two intakes for eheim 2026 and fluval 205.
 
Hi mate,
Well the tank looks in pretty good shape. It's not clear to me where the moss is. Standard troubleshooting procedure here is to take periodic pH readings throughout the day to see what's really happening. Take a reading once per hour from gas on to gas off and see what the profile looks like. If you have a plastic syringe take the water sample from just above the moss.

Cheers,
 
Looking at this tank, I'm starting to wonder what you classified as failure in growing moss.... Any picture of what that might mean? I got a feeling it's not something to do with fertilisation but more of the line of destruction... You don't have SAE in your tank do you?

Dan
 
Hey guys, ok ill do the ph checking next time i have a day off and see what happens then post results. This picture was a few weeks ago now and i have taken the moss out again. I was reading a thread on here about growing moss on wood etc on a window sill so i thought i would give that ago...? try to get it to establish and then immerse it... we'll see.

I do have another question, when i started EI i bought KH2PO4, KNO3 and trace as that was all the EI 'directions' asked for but i see a lot about MgSO4 which i dont know what it is or if i should be using it??

Since the photo on here i tried experimenting with the bacopa on the left, i took it out entirely trimmed nice stems and replanted to try and get a more bushy and less wirey look. Strangely since it was replanted it has barely grown at all, bearing in mind it was out of control before...??
So i have come to the conclusion that this tank will be my experiment tank and the chances are it will never be a 'great' scape as i mess around with it too much which leads me to just one conclusion.. i need a third tank :D

I do have SAE but they are not destructive at all, they were getting a bit boisterous so i re-homed 2 of the larger ones I wish i had some upto date pics with the failed moss before i took it out... but hey ho, i have the flame moss coming next week so might have a failed picture or 2 in a couple of weeks!!! lol

Thanks again guys!
 
easerthegeezer said:
...I do have another question, when i started EI i bought KH2PO4, KNO3 and trace as that was all the EI 'directions' asked for but i see a lot about MgSO4 which i dont know what it is or if i should be using it??
Hi mate,
People using RO or distilled water in their tanks should definitely consider using it. Even if using tap however, ther is still a possibility that the tap might be low in Mg, so the Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) is to start using it and to incrementally withdraw it use to see if there is a decline in health. If there is no change then that means the water is high in Mg and that there is no need to spend money for it.

See the thread:
About Magnesium

Cheers,
 
ceg4048 said:
See the thread:
About Magnesium

Cheers,

wowzers, i find this all amazingly fascinating, all be it somewhat over my head at the moment! Can i ask... is it just experience that has given you such in depth info or is this all related to your profession? or is this your profession? :lol:

Ok i will get hold of some and do as suggested, what is a starting dose with MgSO4 with EI?

It seems that a most people play with their EI dosing but as i understood it the whole point of EI was that there was excess nutrients at all times so no trial and error is needed?

Thanks Ceg, i feel slightly enlightened!
 
Hi,
You just have to keep reading, even if stuff is above your head, because some day it will sink in and it will all start to make sense.

In the EI tutorial I just list a starting dosage of 1/2 teaspoon 3X per week for each 20 gallons.

Trial and error is always necessary because your tank is not static. It changes and grows. You may not like the look of this, or the growth performance of that may not be what you wanted. After a while you understand how the tank responds to your dosing/CO2 and maintenance practices and you can then settle on a procedure and dosing that suits you. EI is a concept and a means to an end. It's not a formula or a rigid dogma. Understanding it's principles sets you free so that you can then concentrate on other objectives like becoming a better scaper.

Cheers,
 
ceg4048 said:
Understanding it's principles sets you free so that you can then concentrate on other objectives like becoming a better scaper.

Cheers,

I want to be free :D

right, im going to start playing with my dosing a little to see what effects it has... how long do you feel you need to run a new dosing schedule to see the effects.... 2 weeks before changing anything else....

Is there a 'rough guide' to plant health like an encyclopedia you would recommend that explains which nutrients do what, plant deficencies, species etc..

Sorry to keep pumping the questions at you, i really appreciate your patience!!
 
If you have SAE in your tank, I'm pretty sure that the reason why your moss fail to grow nicely. I have yet to see SAE that doesn't eat moss. They will look as if they are clearing up algae when they are burrowing their snouts into the moss but if you look carefully at the leaves, they are eating it. The leaves always looks tattered later. They eat up all my moss including giant willow moss! The only thing that seemed to be ok in terms of moss is fissiden species.
 
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