My DIY Reactor

Discussion in 'Completed DIY Projects' started by Behold, 23 Dec 2008.

  1. Behold

    Behold Member

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    Basingstoke. Hants
    This will get Updated as it gets completed

    DIY Reactor

    Well After searching and searching the only decent reactors were in germany and with the euro situation would cost me about 90 quid plus 15-20 quid delivery.

    2 Issues faced me. Flow Per Hour on the reactors and 16mm tubing.

    With this and a some help from Ed Seedly I managed to obtain the right bits.

    The bits needed cost me 45 quid delivered. This was impatients as I got next day delivery I would have saved 5 quid otherwise. The only thing missing is a ball valve for on top to allow bleeding.

    The bits needed are

    1) 2 Inch Pipe (no more than 50cm needed I have about 20 left over)
    2) 2 Inch 90 Degree Elbow (1 Glue fitting 1 Female British Standard Fitment)
    3) 2 Inch Tee with (2 Glue fitting and 1 Female British Standard Fitment on Tee)
    4) 2 inch Spigot adapter with Male British Standard Fitment ( I ordered a Glue One this means my top bit sits quite high this would be eliminated)
    5) 2 Inch Cap (Female British Standard Fitment)
    6) 2 Inch to ½ inch reducing bush
    7) ½ Inch to 16mm Hosetails
    8) Brass HoseTails (I got 6mm but 4 is the correct fitment but both will work.
    9) PVC Pipe Glue
    10) PTFE Tape
    11) Araldite (Not Shown)

    [​IMG]

    I got all this from Hendesons Pipework. Not all is on there site but they have it in stock.

    Tools needed are

    Drill and bits
    Ruler
    Marker Pen
    White Spirit
    Saw
    Sand Paper
    Mitre Block
    Glove (Optional)
    22mm Spanner
    Stanley Knife (Sharp knife)

    Ok. First layout all the items to make sure its all there and to help understand what your about to do.

    [​IMG]


    Next bit is to work out the pipe lengths needed. I first measured to the stop of all the glue fitments and realised all were 1 ½ inches deep. (Check on yours just to be sure)

    The stop is where the X is

    [​IMG]

    I then worked out how much room was in my cabinet and what size I would like. Im my case 50cm’s was what I wanted including the top cap. After laying it tight together out I measured the gap between the Tee and bend. I added 3 inches (To cover both stops) and cut to length. For me I also had to cut a 3 inch section to join my top cap to my tee.

    Once cut I de-burred the inside edge and then cut a chamfer on both ends of the pipe. This was for 3 reasons.

    1) To allow the pipe to enter the glue socket with no snags.
    2) To stop from scraping all the glue up
    3) To allow any scaped glue to build up in the chamfer causing a final seal

    To cut the chamfer I used the knife and sliced a 45 Degree angle about 50% in to the pipe

    [​IMG]

    Then sanded it to smooth the finish out

    [​IMG]

    This picture show the angle acheved better. Its not a lot but does cause that build up.

    [​IMG]

    I then measured the pipe 1 ½ inched in at each side and marked it with the pen so I knew where to sand the pipe.

    [​IMG]

    You should sand both the pipe and the internals of the Glue socket to give a clean and rough edge that will allow the cement to bond.

    Next was to drill a hole to fit the CO2 hosetail in to. I decided to put this on the back of the Bend not the side so the reactor is universal for fitting.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Finally clean all the pipe work in and out with white spirit.

    YOU MUST ALLOW TO FULLY DRY AS IT WILL CAUSE THE CEMENT TO NOT CURE

    Cover both the 1 ½ inch end of the pipe and then the 1 ½ inch of the glue socket with a thin layer of the cement (This needs to be thick enough to fill any gaps)

    Leave about 30 seconds and then insert the pipe in to the socket. Twist the pipe about ¼ of a turn at the same time to spread the glue then push REALLY hard. It should go in fully. There is possibility it will stop just before it gets to the stop (I had this on one side) This is due to the glue and plastic reacting and welding together. Hold the fitting for 30 secs then leave for 3-5 mins. After this the pipe will be set in place

    As you can see the glue is beaded in the chamfer providing a final seal

    [​IMG]

    Repeat with the end remembering to start ¼ of a turn from where you need it to sit so that the bend and tee line up on one side.

    Finally glue the Spigot one the top in the same way. (Remember this need sanding too)

    Once done you should have something resembling this.

    [​IMG]

    Once it had been sat for a while I temporarily fitted the reducing bushes and hose tails just to check it out.

    Its exactly 50 cm tall from cap to bottom and 18cm wide from hosetail to edge.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I then drilled some small holes in the pipe that was now blocking the CO2 hole to help split the CO2 up.

    [​IMG]

    Later tonight I will araldite the CO2 connector and tommorow I will be fitting the bushes and Hosetails using the PTFE Tape. rinsing in a watery bleach solution and let dry out. Then filling the media in to the unit. And connecting it up.

    More Pics to come.
     
  2. Nick16

    Nick16 Member

    Messages:
    1,761
    Location:
    Surrey, UK
    i cannot see any of the pics. anyone else have this problem?

    EDIT: i can see about half now?. wierd
     
  3. Behold

    Behold Member

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    Basingstoke. Hants
    Reserved for the final section tommorow and Note Im fixing the pics....
     
  4. Nick16

    Nick16 Member

    Messages:
    1,761
    Location:
    Surrey, UK
    they are fine now buddy. :)
     
  5. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

    Messages:
    3,262
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Looking good mate. The only thing is you haven't got a spigot fitting on top of your reactor!!! The spigot fitting would glue inside the Tee piece at the top without needing an extra bit of pipe! It won't make any difference to the fucntion of your reactor, just means there'll be a bit more of a gas bubble at the top.

    You've been far more careful than I ever had with PVC glue joints!!! Yours will never leak! Hope it works well when you fire it up!
     
  6. Behold

    Behold Member

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    Basingstoke. Hants
    I know i realised about the spiggot a little late. I do mention this at the top for anyone thinking of copying it. Also the air bubble is not a problem as i will fit a bleed valve anyway and if i find its a nightmare then i will look at altering it.

    As to the joints i read up a few sites and the chamfering was the one thing i picked up on and it makes alot of sence to do it. Im hoping it works well with no leaks.

    I araldited the co2 connection earlier so all thats left is let it air for a bit and then fit the last few bits.

    Again thanks for the help
     
  7. milla

    milla Member

    Messages:
    241
    Location:
    Leeds
    Have you considered adding a ventui loop to it instead of a bleed valve. Saw a article by tom barr on the barr report regardinbg this, apperently it significantly improves diffusion rates.
     
  8. Behold

    Behold Member

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    Basingstoke. Hants
    Ill see how it runs i might give it a go if i get issues. good idea though
     
  9. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

    Messages:
    3,262
    Location:
    Nottingham
    So, how's it working? Hope it's working as you planned? You've got me thinking about this again and I'm going to order the bits to make one up soon. It'll be a bit different to yours but along the same lines. I'm just trying to find out if I can glue clear Acrylic tube to PVC fittings which will allow me to have a clear body!
     
  10. Behold

    Behold Member

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    Basingstoke. Hants
    I managed to break a hosetail so im waiting for it to come. other from that its looking like its fine.

    I thought about the clear PVC but having it will induce Algae growth so not having it will be better although useful why testing it as you can see whats not working. As to gluing it in. as long as its PVC the glue will work the same just get none where you don't want to see it as it will cloud over.

    Im hoping for my tail next week then its all going together.
     
  11. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

    Messages:
    3,262
    Location:
    Nottingham
    The clear PVC was too expensive for me!!! However clear acrylic is nice and cheap (about £10 including postage from Ebay). However it seems that gluing it to PVC fittings is not that straightforward as the PVC cement doesn't bond to acrylic. I'm trying to find out if there is an adhesive that will work and not leak!

    I had a clear bodied CO2 reactor before and found that while there was a little algae on the sides it wasn't too bad. I like to mess about with things and see what's going on inside so I can adjust it so a clear bodied one really appeals to me.
     
  12. Behold

    Behold Member

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    Basingstoke. Hants
    Araldite????
     
  13. JamesM

    JamesM Member

    Messages:
    1,913
    Location:
    The BIG End, South Wales
    WeldOn #40
     
  14. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

    Messages:
    3,262
    Location:
    Nottingham
    I've heard this is the stuff to use, the only problem is I can't find it for sale anywhere!!! Do you know where I can get hold of it?
     
    Bridgo likes this.
  15. JamesM

    JamesM Member

    Messages:
    1,913
    Location:
    The BIG End, South Wales
  16. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

    Messages:
    3,262
    Location:
    Nottingham
    I've tried searching Ebay (and the rest of the web using google and a metasearch engine program I have) but can find no source in Europe.
     
  17. JamesM

    JamesM Member

    Messages:
    1,913
    Location:
    The BIG End, South Wales
    You're right, Ed.. I've tried searching too, with no luck... A pc modding friend used to use this stuff by the bucket load and I think he said it was from a radio control model shop, but it might be rebranded over here.. I'll see if I can dig up his email addy and ask him for ya :)
     
  18. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

    Messages:
    3,262
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Thanks very much mate. Would much rather have a clear-bodied model if I can be sure it's not going to leak!!!
     
  19. JamesM

    JamesM Member

    Messages:
    1,913
    Location:
    The BIG End, South Wales
    Here's the uk supplier for Weld-On products, but apparently they don't keep stock and have to order it in (4-6 weeks) :eek:

    http://www.ips-plastics.com/


    I saw someone mention an Educational supplier called K&M Wholesale who can also supply Weld-On, but they take orders through schools only (not sure if you can arrange something there mate? :D)... I'll keep digging for the email anyway :)
     
  20. JamesM

    JamesM Member

    Messages:
    1,913
    Location:
    The BIG End, South Wales
    What size do you need the clear pvc pipe, Ed? Might be easier to go back to that route :lol:
     

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