Jayefc1
Member
I have 8 baby discus and about 300 yellow cherry shrimp.with some nano fish the discus have only been in the.tank 5 days so.still.early.
Oh that’s lovely. How big is your tank please and what filter do you have? I need to get a bigger tank now I’m going down the discus route too. I was told the discus could eat the shrimp and to just get larger amano. I wanted cherry as well - you don’t find that then? What other fish do you have? I’m uncertain what to add; especially having the smaller tank ....I have 8 baby discus and about 300 yellow cherry shrimp.with some nano fish the discus have only been in the.tank 5 days so.still.early.
Just read your thread. Sorry ... really interesting thank you!Oh that’s lovely. How big is your tank please and what filter do you have? I need to get a bigger tank now I’m going down the discus route too. I was told the discus could eat the shrimp and to just get larger amano. I wanted cherry as well - you don’t find that then? What other fish do you have? I’m uncertain what to add; especially having the smaller tank ....
Ita a pleasure the tank is 284ltrs not sure if that is in the thread and I have 2 filter running and two heater good job I did have 2 heaters the discus are not at all interested in the shrimp and the colony is so large a few losses won't make any differenceJust read your thread. Sorry ... really interesting thank you!
<"Usually dGH and dKH"> are linked because they both come from the dissolution of limestone (CaCO3) and that provides a 1 : 1 ratio of Ca++ (dGH) and 2HCO3- (dKH).that your KH and GH should be virtually the same ...
I'd be very surprised if <"you didn't have any nitrate (NO3-)">, and my guess would be that the dGH and dKH values are more similar to each other.Amonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
PH 8
KH 4
GH 14
Yes I suppose when you have that many if they do eat a good few it’s just management lolthe shrimp and the colony is so large a few losses won't make any difference
Now I best just be honest - I haven’t got a scooby what all that means ....Hi all,
<"Usually dGH and dKH"> are linked because they both come from the dissolution of limestone (CaCO3) and that provides a 1 : 1 ratio of Ca++ (dGH) and 2HCO3- (dKH).
They don't have to be linked, you can add just dGH with a salt like calcium chloride (CaCl.2H2O) and just dKH with a salt like potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3).
I'd be very surprised if <"you didn't have any nitrate (NO3-)">, and my guess would be that the dGH and dKH values are more similar to each other.
cheers Darrel
Honestly that is absolutely fine.Now I best just be honest - I haven’t got a scooby what all that means ....
I wouldn't do any. It's not that I don't want to know what the parameters of the water are, but there are a <"lot of variables">.what further tests should I do?
........ personally I'm a pretty shoddy aquarium keeper, so I need to cut to the chase, which for me is:
Rather than the regular addition of nutrients, I use <"a different approach">. I have a floating plant (usually <"Limnobium laevigatum">) and ,<"heavy planting"> of <"easy" plants"> in the tanks. I just watch the <"growth and leaf colour of the floating plant"> (so not CO2, or light, limited), all the time the leaves are green and the plant growing (how ever slowly) I don't add any nutrients (other than whatever arrives via water changes).
When plant growth (or leaf colour) deteriorates I add some nutrients, once growth has resumed it is back to observing and waiting.
I remember this test from previous! LolHi all,
Honestly that is absolutely fine.
I think of it a bit like driving a car, you can be an entirely competent driver without understanding the software architecture of the Engine Management System and if you do understand it? It doesn't make you a better driver.
I wouldn't do any. It's not that I don't want to know what the parameters of the water are, but there are a <"lot of variables">.
I began promoting the <"Duckweed Index"> (<"I've used it">
cheers Darrel
Perfect, jobs a good un.my fish look fine and are confident and eating well.
my plants are looking fine.
my algae is clearing up!
so I guess I just keep doing what I’m doing
Thank you. I’m new to all this so thought someone might see something very obvious. In a way I’m glad there’s not I suppose.Sometimes these things happen mate,
No you have been helpful. I appreciate you taking a look and replying. Thank youSorry I can't be more helpful.
It might be a low oxygen effect, if the water is very warm?one of my super red bristlenose is dead.
I have it at 28 degrees. I have a spray bar and a bubble spongy thing. Should I turn the bubble thing up higher or the spray bar more to 12 o clock. It’s at about 8 minutes past at the moment....It might be a low oxygen effect, if the water is very warm?
Oh gosh. Poor things! Ok thank you for this information. It isn’t quite what I was told previously but I have learnt a hard lesson ....According to Seriously Fish, the preferred temp range for a Common Bristlenose is 21-26 degrees C : Ancistrus sp. – Common Bristlenose Catfish (Ancistrus sp. 3) — Seriously Fish
I'm not sure if this applies to the variant you have, but it's likely it does. In the wild they inhabit fast flowing rivers and streams, and therefore likely have a preference for slightly cooler and highly oxygenated water.
As Darrel has suggested, the higher temperature (which results in the water being able to hold less dissolved oxygen), together with the temperature being outside of the suitable range, could be factors unfortunately.