• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up
  • You can now follow UKAPS on Instagram.

Need help with new tank

DEL 707

Member
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
I've recently purchases a Aqua One AquaNano 40 tank and I would like to set it up as a planted tank, but I could use some help.

I got some bogwood, bit bigger then I anticapated, but you can see the tank layout.

2FeGsPC.jpg



guVVjK4.jpg


1st thing I need help with, is selecting some plants. I would really like some kind of carpet plant for the front of the tank.
As for the back and round the left side, I really have no idea what to put there.
Are there any viable plants I can attach to the wood itself?

I don't plan on adding CO2 to this tank, but is it worth changing my lights? I'm having trouble finding out what wattage they actually are.

What substrate/soil should I use? I always thought a black substrate with green plants always looked nice.

I'm going to use RO water because my tap water is rather hard and pretty poor, can anyone recommend a product to "re-mineralise" it? I was thinking about Seachem Equilibrium.

Stock wise, I was aiming for mainly shrimp with some Cardinal/Neon Tetras. Is it worth investing in ceramic noodles for the filter?

Should I be looking into any ferts?

I great appreciate any help.
 

Edvet

Member
Joined
15 Aug 2013
Messages
5,125
Location
Lelystad, Netherlands
I'm going to use RO water because my tap water is rather hard and pretty poor
Plants won't realy need it (most plants can grow in liquid rock), if you want it for your livestock you could dilute tapwater with rainwater 50/50, also RO can be used in combination with tap
ceramic noodles for the filter?
Quite useless in a planted tank, filter is mostly to get some flow, just use some coarse filtersponge
Cardinal/Neon Tetras
Neons are unhealthy most of the times, cardinals don't need realy soft water, waterchanges are more important.
Regarding tap water: make sure you prepare it in case of chlorine/chloramine being used (Prime for instance), but in general it's better to do a lot of waterchanges then to hold them back due to not having the 'perfect' water to use
 

alto

Member
Joined
24 Dec 2014
Messages
6,228
I suggest you begin soaking the wood immediately (possibly boil, changing water until soaking water is no longer crazy dark) - there been a few journals recently where the (large amount of) wood seems to negatively impact the scape (furious algae :eek:)

Check flow through the tank when determining wood position (good flow throughout the tank is always important even with non-CO2 addition)

Cheapest method to remineralize RO water is just mix with tap water
(some professional scapers prefer to use a branded mix as it creates continuity - tap water may change seasonally or if multiple water sources)

Depending how hard your water, I’d just go with tap - so much simpler

You can attach various epiphyte plants to the wood, also mosses
eg, Anubias, Bucephalandra (is add these once tank is established as they can be expensive and prone to “melt” - try to choose nursery grown Buce for environmental considerations, also they’re usually hardier types), Microsorum (though you’d want smaller variants in this tank size)

Tropica website is well worth a thorough read - loads of information on plant types, plant handling, tank management etc, check their YouTube channel and playlists (eg Plant Handling is a video playlist)

The retailer should be able to supply light details (check the plug/adapter etc for small print) - it seems that AquaOne may change lights over time (and sale point)

If light is quite dim, ambient light can help with plant growth (avoid direct sunlight or too close to windows re possible rapid heating of tank)

Plants - choose a mix of fast growing stems (important during startup, see Tropica Supporting Plants page) and slower growth plants


Soil - Tropica Aquarium Soil Powder! :D
(my all time favourite substrate)


Carpet ideas
E acicularis (and E a ‘mini’ - need more light, prefers CO2 but sometimes does very well in low tech setups)
Crypt wendtii ‘green’ - from tissue culture, the plant seems to remain smaller in low tech tanks
Crypt beckettii petchii - pot plant, new leaves are often small, bronze coloured crypt
Marsilea hirsuta (possibly crenata as well)
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
Helanthium tenellum

I’ve had S subulata and H quadricostatus remain small in low tech tanks, the latter is usually larger and faster growing


I really like Rotala Vietnam H’ra and H zosterfolia for stem plants - leaf is more delicate than Hygrophila sp. such as Siamensis 53B (but it’s all about what you like!)
Tropica plant profiles list growth rates, light, CO2 preferences etc (some plants are more forgiving)


I’d establish shrimp and plants before adding any fish (also some Clithon sp snails - awesome algae crew and small and rarely leave any eggs about)

While you can put cardinal tetras in this tank, I wouldn’t - they prefer much more swimming room
Neon tetras are less active so seem to do better in smaller tanks (than some of the other tetras)

While tank is a 40cm cube, the actual swimming areas is smaller re filter compartment - and now a large wood piece
Lampeyes killifish seem to manage fine in smaller tanks, most guppies and endlers (choose just males as you don’t want the million babies)

Seriously Fish does an amazing job with their fish profiles, usually including activity information and minimum tank and shoal size etc
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/
 

sparkyweasel

Member
Joined
30 Jun 2011
Messages
2,145
Have a look at Green Neons, they are a bit smaller than Neons, and less likely to be in really poor condition when you get them.
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
Thanks for all the replies.

I do like the look of E Acicularis, would drawf hairgrass be another option?

I've emailed Aqua One, asked them if they can give me some details on the lights.

What are my options for adding CO2? I don't have the room to add a big canister.

Also, what can I put underneath my tank, since it's on feet, I don't want to use the styrofoam that came with it.
 

alto

Member
Joined
24 Dec 2014
Messages
6,228
do like the look of E Acicularis, would drawf hairgrass be another option?
Same difference ;)
I believe Dennerle call their version E pusilla
The “mini” version generally prefers CO2 but can also be grown in nonCO2 tanks - it’s just less predictable
Often in a low tech set up, E acicularis (note the lack of “mini”) will attain similar height, but is more predictable in growth (seems to care less about CO2, though if planted side by side with E acicularis “mini” in a high tech tank will usually be taller and more aggressive in growth pattern)

Tanks on “feet” (or other “free floating” options) are usually placed on a level surface without any mats required
Though if you choose to use one, it should be fine - and perhaps a good idea as they can protect against vibration and can offset small difference in “level”
BUT styrofoam is not designed/built for this purpose, look for a dense, closed cell foam (ADA garden mat is the classic example)

You can add systems that use disposable CO2 canisters, JBL and Eheim both offer decent (500g) sized canister which may be disposable or refillable (kit costs more) BUT check that your local gas filler will take these refillable canisters (usually require different adaptor than the larger CO2 canisters)
Tropica also offers a Nano CO2 Kit with 95g disposable cylinders - this size generally ships world wide without issue - but check costs of the canisters (I use this on a 30cm cube and with 24/7 CO2 @ 0.5bps, 95 g canister lasts 6 weeks, plant growth is slow but no visible algae and plants include Eriocaulon cinereum, H verticillata)

CO2 Art offers a Soda Stream adaptor for their systems ... if you go this route, check the canister weight when purchased (as some have reported underweight refills)
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
Thanks for the reply.

So I don't need to worry about putting anything under the tank, to support it?

I have no room underneath the tank to hide a canister. How are the CO2 kits that come in cans? I saw 1 earlier "Tropica Plant Growth System 60", i know these won't be as good as a proper canister with a diffuser, but are they worth using?
 

alto

Member
Joined
24 Dec 2014
Messages
6,228
The system 60 will be very expensive long term, if you go that route, I’d suggest just using it to help establish plants and then taper off (select suitable plants with this in mind)

It will only supply much lower CO2 levels than any of the other canister systems (and CO2 level is much less stable)

You might look at the “biological” CO2 systems - they will usually also supply lower CO2 amounts and more erratic CO2 levels in tank and should work out cheaper to run than the System 60

I’ve used a Tropica System 60 on a Spec 19 with good success BUT that’s a much smaller thank than your 40cm cube

(I only did this as a “demonstration” and once the initially purchased cylinders (System + 3 refill kit) were empty, ran tank without CO2)

Note, you need to monitor visitors etc as they can quickly empty your canister :banghead:
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
O.k, you've put me off using a tin cans.

This is the unit I have my tank on.

WaLQUqy.jpg


I'm sure on size wise, but can you recommend a proper CO2 setup that will fit under there?
About 10 years ago, I used to rent a CO2 canister from a local gas supplier, but the bloody thing was massive.

Looks like some of these kits come with the bubble counters, should I get rid of them and get a proper glass diffuser.

I'm hoping to order all my stuff tonight, so it turns up on Tuesday (my day off).
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
Another quick post, CO2 can wait till another day, but now looking at the order for my plants.

Was thinking of this.

Tropica Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' x 3
Java Moss x 1
Anubias Petite x 2
Rotala Vietnam H'ra x 2

Opinions?
 

alto

Member
Joined
24 Dec 2014
Messages
6,228
I’d edge my bets by ordering

Tropica 1-2-Grow
2 x E mini
1 x E acicularis (May not be on website as I believe Tropica Denmark lists this in their Special Edition range)
Moss - I’d choose a more stuctured moss such as Flame, Spiky etc)
Rotala V H’ra - just one pot is loads, so add another plant such as Pogostemon erectus etc (stem plant) or Crypt wendtii green (mid ground plant)
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
Thanks for the speedy reply.

I've placed my order.

2x Tropica Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' 1-2-GROW!
1 x Tropica Taxiphyllum flame 1-2-GROW!
1 x Tropica Rotala 'Vietnam H'ra' 1-2-GROW!
1 x Pogostemon erectus
1 x Tropica Aquarium Soil 9L
1 x Anubias Petite
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
Hopefully it'll all turn up tomorrow.

Still need to boil the wood, but should I was the soil 1st?

Could use a bit more help regarding CO2.

Thinking of buying the gas from a local stockist.
https://www.adamsgas.co.uk/product/...ponics-and-aquatic-plant-growth-new-cylinder/

But it still leaves me with the problem of getting a regulator and solenoid and there seem to be so many around, going from £30 to £200+!

I was looking at something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOPQSC-Reg...JWZ7KDB7HRK&psc=1&refRID=S7KQ9D815JWZ7KDB7HRK
 

alto

Member
Joined
24 Dec 2014
Messages
6,228
I assume you mean “wash the soil”?
No
None of the Aquarium Soils are meant to be washed before use

I think you ordered Tropica soil? unlike some Aquarium Soils it will release only minimal ammonia

Tropica provides a 90Day App you can download, this will give you a scheduled maintenance to follow

For CO2 regulator I’d just go with CO2Art - if you can’t find the combination you want onsite, just contact them and they’ll put something together for you, and provide excellent aftercare
CO2Art has tested loads of components to bring to market a dependable economic aquarium CO2 system


This is CO2 - not something you want leaking into your home or struggling with in-tank levels due to faulty components (brought to you by that caring :hilarious: company called Amazon ... they’ve just stripped away benefits and health care and cut wages from another group of employees :banghead: )
 

DEL 707

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Jul 2009
Messages
81
Well I've made a start.

oYpXuB1.jpg


Unfortunately I didn't soak the bogwood for long enough, so it's floating. I'm weighting it down with rocks at the moment. Hopefully I can finish filling it tomorrow. Going to have to keep misting the moss in the mean time.

079VZ39.jpg


Regulator is on it's way and I'm off to pick up a CO2 canister tomorrow.

Few more questions, does the diffuser need to be in the main tank compartment? or can I put it below the powerhead in the filter compartment?

Using this seachem equilibrium and RO water, it says use 1 teaspoon for 3dgh water hardness. Which I've done so far, should I be aiming for higher?
 

Similar threads

Top