You'll need ada solar to get the same colors, twinstar led chips aren't 3 in 1 for now.
Twinstar leds are good for reds but then the greens will looks more yellowish.
-
You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up
New Chihiros RGB Vivid - looks VERY promising
- Thread starter Zeus.
- Start date
You'll need ada solar to get the same colors, twinstar led chips aren't 3 in 1 for now.
Twinstar leds are good for reds but then the greens will looks more yellowish.
Barbara Turner
Member
Has anyone tried the vivid 2, the difference in Chinglish is below..
I'm guessing the GVE power supply is cheaper than the meanwell version, but I bet the price hasn't dropped.
Chihiros Aquatic Studio
9 November 2019 ·
RGB VIVID 2
-Size/Light unit 45.5*16.2*3.4cm
-Weight/light unit:2kgs, power supply:0.55kg
-Input voltage AC100-240V 50/60HZ
-Power consumption 130W
-Led light/ 160PCS(RGB IN ONE LED SHIP)
-Operating temperature range: -20-40
-4m DC CABLE
-Luminous flux:5500lm
-Built in bluetooth controller (New app:My Chihiros)
The difference between old one
1.VIVID2 size more silm
2.RGB VIVID have two colors, which are silver and black
3.APP new function for each one or two colors can adjust more than 100% when other colors setting under 100%
4.RGB VIVID use by GVE power supply, only Germany still use Meanwell power supply
5.Hang up use new way can more easier to balance the body of lamp
I'm guessing the GVE power supply is cheaper than the meanwell version, but I bet the price hasn't dropped.
Chihiros Aquatic Studio
9 November 2019 ·
RGB VIVID 2
-Size/Light unit 45.5*16.2*3.4cm
-Weight/light unit:2kgs, power supply:0.55kg
-Input voltage AC100-240V 50/60HZ
-Power consumption 130W
-Led light/ 160PCS(RGB IN ONE LED SHIP)
-Operating temperature range: -20-40
-4m DC CABLE
-Luminous flux:5500lm
-Built in bluetooth controller (New app:My Chihiros)
The difference between old one
1.VIVID2 size more silm
2.RGB VIVID have two colors, which are silver and black
3.APP new function for each one or two colors can adjust more than 100% when other colors setting under 100%
4.RGB VIVID use by GVE power supply, only Germany still use Meanwell power supply
5.Hang up use new way can more easier to balance the body of lamp
Emil.
Member
What are the setting options like? Can you lower the light enough to create a `night mode` without asking for a major algae outbreak?
no, even on 1% the light is to bright for moon light
Russell Moffitt
Seedling
I just received the Vivid 2 this week. A few of my impressions relating to topics and issues others have already brought up.
1) LIGHTING: very very bright (at 100%) and nice colors once adjusted. I wanted to make some nice sunrise/set ramps that fade from very low intensity moonlight/dusk in red/orange or blue/purple hues up to the high intensity balanced white. As others said, it is way too bright at even 1% on a single channel, looks like nightclub mood lighting, not a sunset or moonlight. It is also very hard to mix the color channels at low intensity. The proportional colors shown in the app don’t match what the light is actually doing. I have a Fluval Plant 3.0 and a Current Satellite Pro Plus that do all of this very nicely. Of course, the Chihiros Vivid 2 obliterates them with the high intensity photoperiod.
2) APP + INTEGRATED CONTROLLER: as mentioned, the app is finicky to work with and to adjust. When building a ramp schedule, t’s almost impossible to select the time you want without clicking randomly 30 times until you get it. Once you get it set, just save it and you are good to go.
If the light ever loses power, due to an outlet timer or a blackout, others have reported that the light loses its schedule. What actually happens is that the internal clock resets to midnight when the power is restored. The schedule is intact, but runs at the wrong time offset. My Fluval Plant 3.0 behaves the same way. I address this problem by putting the lights on an outlet timer that is set to turn off at 11:59pm and turn back on 1 minute later at 12:00am. This keeps everything on the right schedule and everything will recover at midnight if there is a power outage anytime during the day, especially if I’m traveling and can’t run the My Chihiros app to reset the light. The only problem now is if the power restores in the middle of the photoperiod and the CO2 solenoid turns back on without the light. A pH controller would help in that situation.
3) FAN NOISE: my unit came with a very noisy/buzzy fan. Others have said theirs is noisy, others say it is quiet. While CooKieS fixed the fan noise by tightening the screws, I was not so lucky. Mine was discernible across the living room and was only inaudible if I turned on the TV or music.
I swapped in a different 75mm GPU fan with a height of 10-15mm. It was slightly quieter than the original fan, but still noticeable across the room. In my quest for silence, I picked up an ultra quiet Noctua NF-A8 FLX 80mm x 25mm fan. I cut it out of its square mounting bracket and glued the bare fan with silicone inside the light assembly. Now I can’t hear a thing when the light is on except when I put my ear on top of the light. The faint electric whine from the PWM dimming of the led light arrays is louder than the fan.
One big problem, there isn’t enough clearance in the light assembly for a 25mm high fan. I cut out an 80mm circle from the plastic top cover and attached one of those wire fan grills on top of it. Now the cover can lock down and the fan works great. I anticipate that this quality fan will remain quiet for a longer time than the original one. I wish I didn’t have to modify the light this way, but I don’t have any warranty or support options with this light.
In the end I’m really happy even though I wanted throw the Vivid 2 out the window in a few moments of frustration.
1) LIGHTING: very very bright (at 100%) and nice colors once adjusted. I wanted to make some nice sunrise/set ramps that fade from very low intensity moonlight/dusk in red/orange or blue/purple hues up to the high intensity balanced white. As others said, it is way too bright at even 1% on a single channel, looks like nightclub mood lighting, not a sunset or moonlight. It is also very hard to mix the color channels at low intensity. The proportional colors shown in the app don’t match what the light is actually doing. I have a Fluval Plant 3.0 and a Current Satellite Pro Plus that do all of this very nicely. Of course, the Chihiros Vivid 2 obliterates them with the high intensity photoperiod.
2) APP + INTEGRATED CONTROLLER: as mentioned, the app is finicky to work with and to adjust. When building a ramp schedule, t’s almost impossible to select the time you want without clicking randomly 30 times until you get it. Once you get it set, just save it and you are good to go.
If the light ever loses power, due to an outlet timer or a blackout, others have reported that the light loses its schedule. What actually happens is that the internal clock resets to midnight when the power is restored. The schedule is intact, but runs at the wrong time offset. My Fluval Plant 3.0 behaves the same way. I address this problem by putting the lights on an outlet timer that is set to turn off at 11:59pm and turn back on 1 minute later at 12:00am. This keeps everything on the right schedule and everything will recover at midnight if there is a power outage anytime during the day, especially if I’m traveling and can’t run the My Chihiros app to reset the light. The only problem now is if the power restores in the middle of the photoperiod and the CO2 solenoid turns back on without the light. A pH controller would help in that situation.
3) FAN NOISE: my unit came with a very noisy/buzzy fan. Others have said theirs is noisy, others say it is quiet. While CooKieS fixed the fan noise by tightening the screws, I was not so lucky. Mine was discernible across the living room and was only inaudible if I turned on the TV or music.
I swapped in a different 75mm GPU fan with a height of 10-15mm. It was slightly quieter than the original fan, but still noticeable across the room. In my quest for silence, I picked up an ultra quiet Noctua NF-A8 FLX 80mm x 25mm fan. I cut it out of its square mounting bracket and glued the bare fan with silicone inside the light assembly. Now I can’t hear a thing when the light is on except when I put my ear on top of the light. The faint electric whine from the PWM dimming of the led light arrays is louder than the fan.
One big problem, there isn’t enough clearance in the light assembly for a 25mm high fan. I cut out an 80mm circle from the plastic top cover and attached one of those wire fan grills on top of it. Now the cover can lock down and the fan works great. I anticipate that this quality fan will remain quiet for a longer time than the original one. I wish I didn’t have to modify the light this way, but I don’t have any warranty or support options with this light.
In the end I’m really happy even though I wanted throw the Vivid 2 out the window in a few moments of frustration.
Wookii
Member
Nice solution on the timer to reset. I guess the other solution would be to get a UPS - I've been thinking of doing that for a while - I have one for my home NAS unit.
With regards to the fan, I think CookieS actually removed the screws rather than tightened them as his solution to the noise. When I read his post, I did wonder if it might be possible to fit some anti-vibration fan mounts that I've used in PC's before:
Wookii
Member
Has anyone in this thread directly compared the Vivid to the ADA Solar RGB - I’m interested to know how they vary in terms of colour rendition?
HypeBuce
Member
Haven't been on this thread for a while but I remember a while back somebody had to make a DIY shade because it was so bright. Not sure if anyone has mentioned it already but they have come out with these
2020 Chihiros WRGB VIVID LED light shade board reflect plat board for WRGB I WRGB II RGB VIVID II
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dTU1eCU
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2020 Chihiros WRGB VIVID LED light shade board reflect plat board for WRGB I WRGB II RGB VIVID II
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dTU1eCU
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What aspect is confusing you?
Hello, you are right, I ended up removing the screws, it wasn't the fan that was noisy but the vibration coming from it and going through the chassis with the screws in.
Now it's very quiet, at 1 meter distance I just hear the neo co2 diffuser hiss.
I'm now using it at full blast on a 60cm tank, but it sit higher above the surface (about 25cm) then before, I cut some diy shade to avoid blindness, works great. Thanks for the link, I might order the chihiros shades too
Still very happy with the light, the color rendition, the power and the look are awesome, I mean it has it cons (fan noise, bt app) but really can't complain for the price!
nohitnorun
Seedling
i want buy vivid 2 for my new tank ada 120x50x50. i read this forum and make me rethink. its better buy new wrgb 2 or vivid 2? i heard new wrgb2 have same led type as vivid2. please share your opinion. thank you
Wookii
Member
I’m going through the exact same decision making process myself, for my new 1500 x 450 x 450 tank.
In the end I decided to order a WRGB II 60 for my current 60cm tank, just to see how it performs. I should have it in the next few days.
I suspect if your tank is less than 600mm deep, you’d be unlikely to run the Vivid II at 100% (I’m sure some owners will confirm), so maybe wouldn’t need all it’s power anyway.
In your case with a 1200mm tank, you can buy the WRGB II 120 which should ensure more even light coverage along its whole length, rather than two Vivid II’s which would only cover 2 x 450mm of that length technically speaking, and will hot spot more.
The WRGB II 120 is £254 and 130W/7700 lumens. 2 x Vivid II would be £259 x 2 = £518 and 260w/11,000 lumens.
The WRGB II is also a slimmer profile and has no fans (though that could be seen as a positive or a negative depending on how you look at it - quote and low profile vs longer life from active cooling).
To summarise, for me, I think the benefit comparison comes down to - WRGB II: lower cost, even coverage less, obtrusive design vs Vivid II: higher power. If my tank was 600mm deep, I think I’d be potentially looking at 3 x Vivid II’s for my 1500mm tank, but as it’s only 450mm deep, I think I’d be better with WRGB II’s (in my case 1 x 600 and 2 x 450’s).
nohitnorun
Seedling
thank you for your detail opinion WOOKI.
i'll wait for your wrgb2 report then.
but if i choose wrgb maybe i'll buy 2 60 wrgb.
if not good enough i can still use it for my small tank.
i'll wait for your wrgb2 report then.
but if i choose wrgb maybe i'll buy 2 60 wrgb.
if not good enough i can still use it for my small tank.
Nick72
Member
If I'm reading the above charts correctly, one Vivid II would give me full coverage on a 90x45cm tank.
The PAR chart does confuse me a little though, it appears to me that the Vivid II provides very inconsistant PAR across the substrate, with extreme PAR in the dead center of the tank, then ever decreasing par as you go wider and longer (particularly longer). Am I reading this correctly?
The PAR chart does confuse me a little though, it appears to me that the Vivid II provides very inconsistant PAR across the substrate, with extreme PAR in the dead center of the tank, then ever decreasing par as you go wider and longer (particularly longer). Am I reading this correctly?
nohitnorun
Seedling
maybe u right nick72. wrgb 2 just cover 40cm. for deep 50cm vivid2 maybe right choice.
thank you.
btw i send email to chihiros to update comparison on their site. i hope they will update with picture too.
thank you.
btw i send email to chihiros to update comparison on their site. i hope they will update with picture too.
Wookii
Member
Yes, I think you are interpreting it correctly. The Vivid II is only 450mm long, so you’ll get very high par at the centre where the output from all the individual LED’s overlap. By the time you get to +/- 300mm or more you’re starting to get well off axis of the light.
They issue is that they don’t say on the PAR map for the WRGB II which light size is being represented. I have assumed it is the 450mm unit, the same size at the Vivid II, or it could even be the smallest 300mm unit.
If that is the case, the PAR map would look very different if the 600mm unit was represented over a 600mm length. There the higher overlapping output would be spread over a longer length.
I think the WRGB II should usually give better coverage along the length of a tank, as long as the light selected is the same length of the tank, just at a lower peak and average par than the Vivid II can achieve (120 PAR peak vs 280 PAR peak).
