New flood light project commin up..

zozo

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New idea, i thought why not share it, because it actualy needs no testing. Anyway lately i was googling for dimmable LED floodlight.. Ready made they simply do not excist, at least not in a white light version, only the party version RGB is dimmable.

Tho i always kinda end up with the R7S dimmable led units. Thats actualy the led replacement for the old fashion Metal halide floodlights r7s fitting.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Dimmable+R7S+LED+COB+Tube&_sacat=0

:) And found out that the floodlight housing for r7s are getting more and more obsolete and cheaper day by day. Found me a pair r7s fitting 500watt 118mm floodlight versions brand new for less than €6,- a piece.
https://www.toolstation.nl/buiten-breedstraler/p13443?searchstr=breedstraler

It only needs a cable and a lamp.. And that would be the dimmable r7s cobled version.. 12 watt 1000lum. for $3.50

That would be a dimmable 220 volt floodlight for less than €10, only need to add a cable and a dimmer.

The only thing that still needs testing, rather sellers confirmation is if these r7s cob units are dimmable with the TC423 - VAC220 version. If so i would be completely happy and have a programmable controlled VAC220 led light setup.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TC420-TC42...hash=item3d8a76c3e1:m:mGkZxpHHT38P7dHAThPVGEw
Still waiting for a possitive answer.. I suspect it wont be a problem, but rather ask before buying and find out.
:thumbup:
 

zozo

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:thumbup: Nice find.
Not sure wether they are as bright as my 125W Metalhalide bulbs.
No not near as bright and probably not near as hot.. This cob type goes about + 100 lum per watt in average. Than since it double sided caoting we have some loss at the reflector. The 118mm long unit goes up to 15 watt till now 1800 lumen is so for the strongest i could find. For even stronger yo need to go for the 1800mm version. Anyway i don't need a bom of light, i only wanted a easy dimmable option in a flood light model at VAC220. This is the only option so far and a rather affordable one as well. :)

Oh!? And it get seven beter the TC423 seller replied and confirmed, dimming this with the TC423 works a charm.. Thus it is programable controllable directly from the mains with this device. :thumbup: Thus one could take 5 x 1800 lumen with the 118mm type for a start and ramp it up and down automated during the complete cycle per channel independently.

You actualy could use a different diy hood and mount the r7s fittings to it..
 

rebel

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Tell you what, I reckon you should get a ADA metal halide or similar fancy fixture and retrofit em. Will look great!
 

zozo

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It will take a while before all ordered stuff arrives. I guess at least 6 weeks.. But ordered 4 dimmabe led units 12 and 25 watt and the TC423 controller.
To only need to install 2 lights. And only will need it for the winter periode.. But i try to fix it in place up and runnng long before..
 

Tim Harrison

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Sounds like it could be a great project, be good to see step by step instructions.
 

zozo

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Sounds like it could be a great project, be good to see step by step instructions.
It will be awfully simple.. First step is find a dealer of the old type r7s floodlight hood. Like bellow.
13443.jpg

Either only the hood or a complete light.. In a way it seems people are forgetting about these older types and are not sold a lot anymore.
I was lucky found a shop that still has over 30pcs, r7s replacement hoods for 500 watt mh bulb in store. selling them for € 5.50 a piece.
After it arrived, must say it's not heavy dutty professional quality material it is made in. Maybe not long lived if dragged around over a building site every day. But perfect for the occasion as fixed lightsource indoor and outdoor.

Step 2. Swap the MH bulb for a r7s cob led in desired intensity.. If you have a complete flood light you are, ready to plug it into the mains with an ordinary light dimmer on the socket. :)

Step 3 connecting and programming the TC423. I'll come back to that when its in..:)
 

Hudson

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Intrested in this conversion myself as i have just purchased a 2nd hand ADA 60p setup that came with a ADA Solar I metal Halide but the bulbs are massivley expensive so was planning on swapping it out for a Twinstar or similar
 

Dieni

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It will take a while before all ordered stuff arrives. I guess at least 6 weeks.. But ordered 4 dimmabe led units 12 and 25 watt and the TC423 controller.
To only need to install 2 lights. And only will need it for the winter periode.. But i try to fix it in place up and runnng long before..
Got any updates? Been doing some searching on these bulbs, but the lumens numbers seem to be all over the place and being chinese, On several occasions I found out that chinese bulbs don't output what they stated...
 

zozo

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Got any updates? Been doing some searching on these bulbs, but the lumens numbers seem to be all over the place and being chinese, On several occasions I found out that chinese bulbs don't output what they stated...
I'm still waiting on the order to arrive.. But i'll update on it as soon as it is up and running.

I know that lumen specs always is a big questionmark, especialy if it is designed for a hood with reflector.. That is not only for LED but actualy for any type of light bulb that initialy is not intented as a light for vivarium use. Same as for color rendition given in K value is very inconsistent.

Till now i covered the issue with always using a dimmer and dimmable led setups and take my chances with ordereing at least double the power i thiink i need. Than if it only delivers 50% of the stated specs than i'm still good to go. Regarding the color, i'll take my chances on 6500K what ever that thruly will be.

Depending on the pratcical possiblity the light setup gives me and if i can (DIY) install 2 diffent colors for example 1 x 2700K and 1 x 6500K than i still can render color with the dimmer. But this is something for later.. As said first i take my chances with 6500K only and see from there.
 

Dieni

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Depending on the pratcical possiblity the light setup gives me and if i can (DIY) install 2 diffent colors for example 1 x 2700K and 1 x 6500K than i still can render color with the dimmer. But this is something for later.. As said first i take my chances with 6500K only and see from there.
It will be interesting to see the results.

Have you ever tried any of these? They seem to be a good alternative, although you would need to diy a housing for them...
 

zozo

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Have you ever tried any of these? They seem to be a good alternative, although you would need to diy a housing for them...
Yes i did use comparable types, 2 of them i believe 75 Watt each in an aluminium hood.. I experienced them getting extrmely hot.. The issue i ran into was, the hood was not ventilated and it trapped all hot air generated by the led units under it. The LEDs started to flicker after 15 minutes, because the lak of heat dissipation. Heat is the leds worst ennemi.. I had build a forced fan cooling into the hood to solve the problem. As soon as the light switches on the fan starts running and blows cool air over the led units, than all was fine.

That is an issue to take into consideration with high wattage led units in a closed housing with little ventilation. You need a sufficient heatsink and or a forced fan cooling. Ask the vendor if heatsink is required.. Proper heatsinks are harder to find than the led units requiring it and can be rather expensive in relation to the led. Than a forced fan cooling is a cheaper and better option.

Not so long ago i did build this from 12 volt cob leds.. They are actualy much easier to controll and stay much cooler.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cob-led-alu-mecanno-style-light-stand.50248/
 
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becks

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Might be worth checking the flood lights are earthed, I’ve took some of the Chinese led flood light units apart and there was no earth connected (they are not class 2 double insulated)
 

zozo

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Wow those chips that you linked here even have par values recorded!!!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...8.0&pvid=0b48e75a-b053-460a-8330-5c6949791a8c
Yes that is interesting.. But they definitively need a heatsink and i guess a rather big one. And a fan cooling if build into a closed hood like a floodlight casing..

It aint difficult.. Lately i made a 15000 lumen monster flood light from this unit.
https://www.banggood.com/150W-15000...-p-1173608.html?ID=383748036&cur_warehouse=CN

I also used a simple floodlight hood as above only the large 1000 watt MH version. It wasn't for aqaurium but meant as oitdoor floodlight. It hangs in a friends garden now, to light our Petanque play field.. Unfortunately i didn't document the build.

But this was the result.

Frontview
DSC_0932.JPG

Left side Air vents sucking in..
DSC_0935.JPG


Right side 80mm DC12 volt fan cooling blowing out.
DSC_0936.JPG

Used a regular small dc12 volt 1 amp psu and cut off the plug and wired it to the mains. If the mains are pluged in the fan runs full pseed as long as the LED is burning.

Still used 2 of these heatsinks 100x60x10mm to make the unit fit the floodlight and still use part of the original reflector. Still gets pretty hot, but since it is for outdoor use obviously nights only, its cool enough to do the job.

https://www.banggood.com/100x60x10m...-p-1391731.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

A bit much for aqaurium use i guess..
Was a fun build.. Could be sized down, stuff to diy it is out there.. :)
 
Last edited:

Dieni

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Yes i did use comparable types, 2 of them i believe 75 Watt each in an aluminium hood.. I experienced them getting extrmely hot.. The issue i ran into was, the hood was not ventilated and it trapped all hot air generated by the led units under it. The LEDs started to flicker after 15 minutes, because the lak of heat dissipation. Heat is the leds worst ennemi.. I had build a forced fan cooling into the hood to solve the problem. As soon as the light switches on the fan starts running and blows cool air over the led units, than all was fine.

That is an issue to take into consideration with high wattage led units in a closed housing with little ventilation. You need a sufficient heatsink and or a forced fan cooling. Ask the vendor if heatsink is required.. Proper heatsinks are harder to find than the led units requiring it and can be rather expensive in relation to the led. Than a forced fan cooling is a cheaper and better option.

Not so long ago i did build this from 12 volt cob leds.. They are actualy much easier to controll and stay much cooler.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cob-led-alu-mecanno-style-light-stand.50248/
Nice light that you have built there :thumbup:.

But with regards to the AC leds, 75w in a single led is a lot. I can imagine that it would need some proper cooling. I am planning to get some of the leds I linked and do a diy setup with them, with heatsinks and fans etc...


The 150w led should have a warning sign on it. Sunglasses need to be worn when light is on :cool:
 

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