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New Stands New Starts

dallen98

Member
Joined
8 Dec 2020
Messages
32
Location
Chicago, Illinois
Hello all, been offline for a while (finishing my degree / working / moving) but happy to get the ball rolling again. I've been sitting on equipment, soil, hardscape and sketches for longer than I can bear haha. I will say, I needed the time to accumulate all of this stuff. First, I'll share 2 new aquarium stands I've been dragging on building for the past few months. One is an iteration of an earlier version which will be used for a 30cm cube. The other is a new stand for a 45p. Both constructed with welded steel bar stock frames, matte black rust oleum finish, baltic birch plywood top for the 45p and red oak for the 30 cube.

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I'll follow up with some updated sketches of my intended planting layouts. I have all of my equipment ready to go and will begin with a long dark start soon. Filtration for both is the Oase Filtosmart thermo 100; pipes for both are the Aquario neo flow premium sets; lighting for the 30cm cube is an ONF flat nano plus; lighting on the 45p is a Twister version III 450SM. I have Tropica Aquarium soil on hand and will be using Seachem Matrix for my biological filtration. I'd like to really document the process on both of these and will certainly have questions as things progress. Looking forward to moving again, love this community. Cheers,

Daniel
 
Phew - finishing that degree and locking in a full time job took more of my time than I was hoping. Now that "my affairs are in order," I have another update. I've been running a dark start for just over 4 weeks now. I'll be doing a big plant order in the coming weeks. No water changes, just topping off with dechlorinated water, and I've been dosing Seachem Stability just about every other day. At this point I think it's safe to say both tanks have cycled fully - Both are at a PH of 6.5 with 0 Ammonia, and Nitrite. The 45P is reading 0 Nitrate but in the 30cm cube I did pick up a reading of 10ppm Nitrate. My guess is this has to do with the large soil to water volume ratio. At any rate, I think it's high time I preformed some large water changes. As far as KH and GH readings, both systems are at 1 degree KH and 8.5 degrees GH. This was a bit surprising to me. My tap water has a PH of 7.5, with a KH of 5.5 and a GH of 8.5. I thought, with so many weeks of simply topping off the water, that the tanks would have higher alkalinity and hardness. I suppose the aqua soil is really doing its job buffering.

I am still overdue for some fully fleshed out sketches of my planting schemes, and I'll get to those shortly. In the meantime, I'll note my plan for the 30cm cube is a Dutch style scape with a corner composition. The 45P will be a bit of an Iwagumi ... but I do plan to add a group of stem plants and AR mini. And definitely plan to fill in the rock crags with mosses and bucephalandra. I want to carpet the entire 45P with UG, which I hope will appreciate this extended dark start. In any event, enjoy the photos below, more to come in the next few weeks. Cheers -

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Hello all, here’s a diffuser placement question: I’m using a CO2 Art in-line diffuser on both of these systems. I realize my double tap connectors are pretty high up from the filter, so the most convenient thing to do would be to place the in-line diffuser below the taps. Are there any potentials for CO2 leakage / degradation of the taps if the diffuser is below them? Should I aim to put my in-lines above the taps to avoid any potential issues? Seems minuscule but don’t like dealing with silly, unforeseen complications haha. Cheers
 
Hello all, here’s a diffuser placement question: I’m using a CO2 Art in-line diffuser on both of these systems. I realize my double tap connectors are pretty high up from the filter, so the most convenient thing to do would be to place the in-line diffuser below the taps. Are there any potentials for CO2 leakage / degradation of the taps if the diffuser is below them? Should I aim to put my in-lines above the taps to avoid any potential issues? Seems minuscule but don’t like dealing with silly, unforeseen complications haha. Cheers
Shouldn't be an issue because because of the rather low concentration of carbonic acid. Most aquarium valves are made of PVC-U, which is resistant to corrosion and mild acids. These valves are routinely used in (marine) tank piping and CO2 reactor bypasses.

In your case, I would be more concerned about bumping into the exposed pipes. In one of your tanks it seems you might have space to hide the filter behind the tank. In any case, those stands are beautiful and I would try to find a solution to hide the filters and pipework. Maybe a shelf in the stand with a wood front?
 
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Shouldn't be an issue because because of the rather low concentration of carbonic acid. Most aquarium valves are made of PVC-U, which is resistant to corrosion and mild acids. These valves are routinely used in (marine) tank piping and CO2 reactor bypasses.

In your case, I would be more concerned about bumping into the exposed pipes. In one of your tanks it seems you might have space to hide the filter behind the tank. In any case, those stands are beautiful and I would try to find a solution to hide the filters and pipework. Maybe a shelf in the stand with a wood front?
Thanks, it’s good to hear there shouldn’t be any problems with the CO2.

As for the stands - the filters just tuck directly underneath the aquariums but you’re right in that all of the equipment is exposed. For some reason I don’t mind this, kind of enjoy seeing everything tick and having that direct access. In any case, I have considered building out a floating wooden cabinet inset from the steel if I get bored of the current look. Maybe I’ll get around to it in a few months ;)
 
Hi folks - here are some of the sketches I mentioned earlier. The first was my initial concept in perspective, before I drew a flat, elevational view with a more developed planting scheme. This later one reflects the slight alteration I made in hardscape. I wanted to draw more but realized it wouldn't be too useful for me as I have a solid idea of where things are going already. I think it's the architect in me wanting to produce a full drawing set and focus on presentation - have to get around that haha. The 30cm cube, as a dutch style, I just loosely organized but will essentially freestyle the planting.

As a general update, finally, after almost 2 months of dark start, the 45p (which receives some amount of direct sunlight during the day) developed some spot algae and even a little bit of BGA. The amount was so minimal that I quickly removed it and treated the BGA with a salt treatment (Blue Green Slime Stain remover ... it really works wonders in my past experience). I've also noticed a healthy quantity of little protozoans swirling around the glass - those tiny creatures far too small to photograph and at the edge of what is visible with the naked eye. This is encouraging for me as it means my soil will be teaming with microorganisms for the Utricularia Graminifolia and overall that there is a healthy population of organisms stabilizing an ecosystem. With such an extended run-time, I am hoping to have minimal initial melt other than the dropping of terrestrial leaves for aquatic leaves (I purchased a lot of potted stems).

And Finally, a massive order of plants was delivered to my doorstep today ... pictures of initial planting will follow soon. Cheers!

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Planting 2 scapes in one day was more ambitious than I anticipated. We got the job done, now for the terrifying first few weeks of adjusting lighting and CO2. I'm using a UNS mini dual stage regulator fed into a CO2 Art in-line diffuser on both systems, see the below. As there are no livestock, I'll be relatively heavy with the CO2 initially, keeping closer to the yellow side on a drop checker for the first few weeks. As far as I understand, the only potential side effects of heavy CO2 dosing would be damaging my bacterial colony or any other critters that my Utricularia Graminifolia might feed on, any other thoughts? As far as lighting, the ONF flat nano+ has an excellent integrated timer app via bluetooth which I sync my solenoid CO2 with. The twister, unfortunately, has to be regulated with an external dimmer - I'm using this Way2top product. It does the trick but it will take some time to get familiar with how it ramps up and down. It seems to me that this device begins a transition about 30 minutes before execution time - so if I set it to go from 50 to 25% brightness after 3 hours, it will begin the ramp down at 2.5 hours. This is just what I've noticed while sitting with it in the living room, perhaps others with more experience have it down to more of an exact science.

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Planting was relatively seamless. I'll start on the 45P with a photo below. Various Bucephelandra sp and some interesting white Anubias nana petit in the rock crags, along with some weeping moss. Of course, the moss has all browned out, as it tends to do initially in my experience. I've tried to create a little boarder of S. Repens along the rocks, followed by a UG carpet. I attempted to break the UG up into very small portions, about 2CM in diameter, and plunge them deep into the substrate until the tops were hardly visible. In fact, from the photo below, it isn't quite apparent just how dense the UG really has been planted due to how deep I pushed them down. In the center is a mix of Alternanthera Reineckii mini and Alternanthera Rosanverig mini, the latter being a new one for me. To the right I've planted a tissue culture of Rotala H'ra. We'll see how it fairs, I've had luck with TC stems before, but they always make me nervous because of how scraggly the appear at first. I will say, as a note to any new scapers: never underestimate tissue cultures based on initial appearance. It's amazing to see how they can change over time. Finally, in terms of background, I have Vallisneria Nana in the left-hand corner, flanked by a mix of Lilaeopsis Mauritiana in the back and Lilaeopsis Brasiliensis in front of it. I was interested in a gradient effect from the UG up to the Vallisneria and figured the chain swords would be a good mediator. Heaven knows how I'll manage to keep things in order once they all started growing and competing for space. I've never worked with chain swords before but somewhere along the line heard the best method of planting for dense growth was essentially to fold the chain over itself before planting to maximize growth nodes in one place. Both came as tissue cultures and that was the planting method I used.
With that I conclude general info on the 45P, again, with a photo below. On this setup I'd like to open a dialogue about UG. I have been particularly suspicious about its carnivorous nature due to its propensity for aggressive growth. I was directed to @Geoffrey Rea 's journal: Something Something Shallow Tank, which was exceptionally insightful and well done. I took the afternoon to browse through the whole thing once more and found my initial observations to be correct in that there is more to the feeding habits of UG than simply microfauna in a carnivorous sense. It seems there is the potential for micro-algal, bacterial, and other mineral absorption. This article, which was unfortunately behind a paywall, was also referenced in his journal. I may have to purchase it. My reason for bringing this up is out of general curiosity for best practices. I could begin feeding protozoan cultures, etc, but as I mentioned in an earlier posting, some fauna has already "spawned" quite naturally with no external additions over the past two months of dark start. I'm curious how the UG will fare with essentially no external help from me in terms of inputting critters, and, additionally, if it truly can benefit from fertilizers. My inclination is it must. I have seen some scapers with UG heavy aquariums (Jordan Stirrat for example) who seem to only dose fertilizers with no extra care given to microfauna populations. Of course, I can't say what the long term success of such techniques are, but the growth rate in his set up was immense. Lastly, I saw that @Geoffrey Rea had intended to write an article on Utricularia Graminifolia which I wasn't able to find. Does anyone know if he ended up publishing that?

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As far as the 30cm cube is concerned, planting was also smooth. In this scape, a corner composition dutch style, I planted a boundary composition of Elatine Hydropiper, followed by a border of S. Repens and Rotala Sp. Bonsai. After this I'm trying a smaller, unusual Rotala, which is some sp Florida. Apparently it grows a lovely purple. I've also planted the remainder of my two Alternanthera variants in the foremost corner just behind the Elatine Hydropiper. In the back I have 3 more groupings of Rotala, all related variants of Rotundifolia: green, orange juice, and H'ra. Finally, as an accent in the middle of those background Rotala bunches I planted some Ludwigia super red. I did also receive Ludwigia Sp. white, which seemed like an unusual but beautiful stem, which I planned to utilize as an accent. It unfortunately arrived completely melted, so I ordered another bunch of it along with some Hygrophila sp Chai, which I've always wanted to try my hand at. I'll place that closer to the foreground, most likely in between the bonsai and the Florida, flanking the Alternanthera.
That's my general notes for the 30cm arrangement. Once again, at this point I'd like to open a separate conversation about immersed stem plants. I realize I truly haven't worked with them and this scape is almost exclusively comprised of emergent forms of all of the above mentioned stems. I would anticipate some degree of melt-off initially before submerged foliage appears. What have your experiences been with this? What are the success rates? Once again, I am heavily dosing CO2 in order to compensate for the rapid environmental shift, and my aquariums are quite well established as is. I suppose I'm trying to get a better idea of what to expect. Of course, users like @ceg4048 have described their own experiences with submerging transition and zero melting. I was surprised to learn he doesn't consider it a natural part of the process whatsoever in reading over his comments in this thread. His points make sense and of course I refer to his experience, so I would aim to avoid that melt off altogether. In that case, what is the nature of the transition? I would assume that new growth towards the top begins to change while the lower portion remains the same. Necessitating, then, a complete trim and replanting after several weeks to be rid of the emergent growth altogether. Any experience on that? Alright - this was a long entry, I've had my share of fun. Below is the 30CM photo, I'll follow up soon. Cheers, Daniel.

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I saw that @Geoffrey Rea had intended to write an article on Utricularia Graminifolia which I wasn't able to find. Does anyone know if he ended up publishing that?

It is on the to do list Daniel 😉

Is there a specific question you have in the meantime @dallen98 ?
 
It is on the to do list Daniel 😉

Is there a specific question you have in the meantime @dallen98 ?
I see, no worries mate haha. Definitely let us know when you do get that up, I’m sure it will be insightful.

What do you think about the necessity to introduce micro fauna? As I’ve noted, I can see some infusoria already populating this tank, I wonder if that will be enough.

I have begun to see signs of melt off towards the bottom of my UG plugs (some detached themselves and revealed their undersides.) The portions I received were grown immersed - very fine leaflets, much smaller than the TC you posted on your initial setup. There were a good deal of white “roots” which I would expect are what’s melting off right now. The top leaves look just fine, bright green and even perky. My hope is they’ll begin to propagate new aquatic bladders and regain strength.

Another note / question is that my water is relatively hard, being Chicago tap: KH 5.5 GH 8.5, PH 7.5. I understand you were using remineralized RODI water, did you happen to experiment with anything harder? From readings from folks like Tom Barr and Dennis Wong, I would expect most plants to be just fine with those parameters, but as we know, UG has proven to be more preferential for many.

Continuing to adjust parameters - keeping CO2 and lighting high and staying on top of water changes regularly (every other dayish). I will note - I keep my CO2 regulated: 2hrs before 100% lights on, turning at the end of my 100% period. I keep the lights dim in the mornings and evenings. This being one of the bigger differences in approach from what I read in your own journal. That’s all from me - thanks.
 
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One week update.

45P general notes:
Pretty much running an algae farm as of right now. The Vallisneria Nana did not take it's transition well and has begun to die off. I say that not without hope since it is sprouting new leaves almost as quickly as it is loosing old ones. The young leaves are coming in red ... which I knew some Vals can do but wasn't aware of this trait in the Nana variation. In any case, in the next few weeks will more than likely lose all of the old growth and see it replaced by fresh ones. Not a concern for me. My Hygrophila SP. Chai came in along with the Ludwigia SP White, both in emergent forms. I added a few stems of the Ludwigia in the Rotala H'ra bunch in this setup. Haven't seen any submerged form leaves on either just as of yet. But the tissue culture Rotala H'ra has begun to transition well with a handful of melt off stems (the culture was in rough shape when I received it, but not a big concern). In general I would attribute any algae to the additional ammonia coming from the Vallisneria leaves and the small patches of melt in the TC Rotala. These are where most of the algae can be found, but I'll admit some dust algae on the glass as well. I am still dialing in the photoperiod with the Twinstar, which is a new light for me. I thought I could treat it similarly to the ONF Flat nano+, which I've had success with on my first scape last year, but it seems to have a much higher output. As of right now I run it at 100% for 6 hours with a 10 and 15% dimmed period before and after in the morning and evening. I'll continue to watch this and adjust my CO2 as needed.

I have not seen any additional signs of melt on the UG, visible portions remain bright green and I can see hints of runners popping up here and there ... I think. The one encouraging change I noticed was most clumps developing submerged bladders. I went ahead and ordered some Protogen, which is supposed to be a dried culture of infusoria mixed with spirulina and other food for the microorganisms. I haven't found a lot of information on the stuff, it comes in tablet form. I have two plans on how to use it - either will break it into small portions and insert it into the soil around the UG like root tabs or I will try to grow out the infusoria in a bucket to the side, dosing it like fertilizer on the side. I would prefer to add directly to the soil but as I'm not sure what the exact composition of the tablets is, I would be worried about leeching ammonia into the soil. Has anyone else used this stuff?

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30 CM Cube general notes:
This setup is doing splendid. Virtually no signs of algae anywhere, all of the stems remain healthy and have sprouted all kinds of roots and new foliage. In answer to my own musing earlier on, the emergent stems immediately have spread out and down, given the ample space of the young setup, and are dripping with roots. They did not drop their old leaves but instead begun to sprout new stems along their original emergent stems. You can also see submerged leaves appearing at the tips. As they have grown so rapidly, I think I'll attempt a trim at the end of the next week, cutting down quite low and replanting only the submerged tips in an attempt to bolster density and force more vertical growth. Only the Ludwigia Super Red, Rotala Florida, and Rotala Sp Bonsai are growing vertically. The florida is already showing signs of its beautiful purple and the Bonsai TC seems happy, sprouting new leaves and shooting out roots. This is great news for me, having failed with bonsai in my first scape last year.

I have had only one issue plant with this scape which is the Elatine Hydropiper. The only algae in this system is emerging among certain melted portions. By the end of this week I would say about half of my planted portions have begun to melt. I looked down and realized my heater was set to 78 degrees F (25C). Yikes. I thought I had set both of these systems closer to 76 degrees but apparently only did so on the 45P. I would assume this is the primary issue. While I have read of some, like Tom Barr, growing it in scapes with temperatures in the 80's, most of the information I have found suggests a strict necessity for lower 70's. As it's still cold here in Chicago and in the apartment, I brought my heater down to 74 degrees F (23C). Hopefully this will help, I only hope the melted portions aren't completely dead and can bounce back. I am encouraged to see how deep the roots have gone down. In my past experience, plants with a strong root system established are more likely to recover. Anyone with experience growing E. Hydropiper and seeing it bounce back from melt? I have in the past experienced severe ammonia leaching in the soil from melted portions which ends up poisoning the surrounding growth. I'd like to leave these portions in for now with the hope they will recover and to save the trouble of uprooting and disturbing the neighboring plants. But if it's necessary then it must be done.

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Lastly, I put in an order for some Amano shrimp and Neocaridina Davidi (some jade green variation), along with some horned Nerite snails. Hopefully they can help me manage some of this new algae during the week when I have less maintenance time. I've been preforming 30-50% water changes just about every other day and I am dosing the 2HR aquarist line APT Complete on both setups. It is working just fine on the dutch setup with such high density but I wonder if it is too rich for the 45P. I do have some APT zero on hand as well, but wanted to ensure all of the young plants had access to all of the nutrients they needed straight away. That's all from me, cheers,

Daniel
 
What do you think about the necessity to introduce micro fauna?

It is a carnivorous plant. Whether you need to introduce micro fauna, it is highly likely they will turn up naturally. However, how prevalent these cultures are can be influenced and supplemented.
 
It is a carnivorous plant. Whether you need to introduce micro fauna, it is highly likely they will turn up naturally. However, how prevalent these cultures are can be influenced and supplemented.
Fair enough. I’ll see if that protogen makes any marked difference when it arrives. Most likely will insert directly in the substrate.
 
Elantine melts and then regrows from 🌱 looking sprouts a few weeks later. Don’t be tempted to disturb it it’ll come back once adapted.
 
Fair enough. I’ll see if that protogen makes any marked difference when it arrives. Most likely will insert directly in the substrate.

For your info Daniel… on the UG tank have been putting one pellet of the protogen into an old 300ml ADA bottle with tank water to dissolve. Every now and then, shaking then dosing a dozen squirts.

For that particular mono species tank there’s no real decay so it’s supplemented with protogen. In your mixed tank that’s freshly planted it could be moot currently, but maybe useful further down the line.
 
Avalanches, algae, and egregious rookie mistakes. It's been 5 weeks.

To begin with, a general note on arrogance and how unforgiving nature is to such tendencies. I went all-in on these setups, no budget, no constraints. Purchased expansive equipment, substrate, and fertilizers, along with equally as expensive plants. I really got it in my head that if I pimped the whole thing out, really overdid everything to the max, I could avoid some of the novice pitfalls. Granted, these two scapes are my second endeavor into "high tech" planted aquariums, but I considered my previous one to be a success. Sure, it did take many months to get it where I liked, but I figured with that experience and my new toys, things would be just peachy. As such, I committed many sins and nature is punishing me severely for them. Note to self and to all new capers - you are not god. There are thousands of pages of information urging you to take care of your photoperiod and nutrients within the first critical weeks. These come from thousands of hours of experience. Listen to them.
Sin no. 1: high light and high ferts straight out the gate. It is truly phenomenal just how bright this twister is. Not only was I running it at 100% for 6 hours a day, I also had "dimmed" moonlight periods stretching it from dawn til dusk. On top of this I immediately began dosing rich fertilizers (APT Complete). My thinking was after such a long dark start, and with my overpowered filters and high CO2, the mostly in vetro plants would appreciate the extra energy. Sure, they did appreciate it. But you know what appreciated it even more? Legions of algae. It's laughable, really, and quite embarrassing. If I had set these scapes up for anyone else I would have demanded they maintain lighting and fertilizer control for the first several weeks. But not I. No, I know what I'm doing. I can push the limits. The result has been an absolute unit of hair algae in the 45 P and gobs of diatoms in the 30cm cube.
My initial response was to trim down the lights a few hours until I eventually cut down any moonlight setting altogether. 8 hours a day, that's all you get now. The 30cm cube is still running at 100% as the diatoms are relatively manageable and it's a high-density scape. I'm running the 45P at 75% now as of last week. I did introduce algae eaters- Amano shrimp, cherry shrimp, and horned nerite snails. So far, I haven't noticed a major dent.
Sin no. 2: impractical scape design with no consideration given to physics. I'm an architect, I should really have planned ahead for what has become a major burden in the 45P - avalanches. Due to the algae I have been performing some pretty aggressive water changes. As a result, the water level can drop down below the soil line before I fill back up - resulting in a cascade of soil and plants. In general, the only truly affected plants have been the UG - to my great dismay. As a result, that plant has been up-rooted and re-planted about 3 times now. The first time was due to my attempt to vaccuum out algae - which resulted in some minor uprooting. I realized the UG in general was pretty badly infected with hair algae and decided to uproot all of it and salvage as many healthy portions as I could. But the rest came as a result of two particularly aggressive water changes. I suppose I was banking on carpeting plants to hold the soil's shape more tightly - but the bluff I created with stone really has provided the perfect scenario for disaster. When shaken loose, that packed up soil stacked much steeper than it should comes tumbling over the bluff. With no glass to catch it, it continues rolling. It's not a total disaster and I'm certainly exaggerating the severity. But still, poor design on my end.
Over the past 4 weeks I have thus been playing with my lighting schedules and intensity, done a few replanting sessions, and also had to reconsider my flow. On the 45P I went so far as to remove the water diffuser on the outlet to give way to a much more aggressive jet to ensure adequate flow across the entire scape. I also went ahead and switched to the leaner APT zero, which contains no nitrates, on the 45P. This, combined with the lighting reduction, I hope will aid in diminishing the algae. In general, the only drastic changes to the 30CM cube were the total photoperiod.

Now for a focused look at each setup, beginning with the 45P.

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This is directly before a general maintenance session. Plenty of hair algae to go around. Despite the algae, I will say the plants are actually quite healthy. I trimmed down all of the Vallisneria and chainswords as well as the two Alternanthera sp about 2 weeks ago. Both have continued to grow and sprout new, healthy leaves. The S Repens in the front aren't faring quite as well but are hanging on. I also trimmed down all of the stems on the right side. The Ludwigia finally transitioned to aquatic form (that bare stem is the leftover emergent stem with old foliage removed due to shading). It took its time and unlike the transitioning Rotala in the 30cm did not sprout new shoots but instead transitioned vertically in a gradient fashion with its leaves slowly becoming more narrow.
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The UG, despite the constant harassment, actually seems to be quite healthy. Thick, green foliage with bladders and runners creeping across the soil. There are some areas of new growth beginning to sprout up. Overall I have seen no more signs of melt after the first week and only healthy and consistent growth. It may now be a while before a full carpet due to the abuse - I may be inclined to buy some more if it really seems it will take too long. But since these portions are now fully acclimated to the setup, perhaps they will begin to grow more rapidly. I think I will soon begin dosing the proton to see if that bolsters any growth. Another point of interest is the intense coloration of the 2 Alternanthera SP. Much more brilliant than in the 30cm. Growing in densely with no problems, although we'll see how that fares once those leaves grow to their full size. Above also is a closer photo of the Ludwigia. Truly beautiful but extremely slow growing. I realize now why mixed bushes are uncommon. In order to give this plant this light it needs I had to sacrifice and shade some of the Rotala surrounding it. In the coming weeks I will separate it towards the back both in this setup and the 30cm cube. The moss is growing aggressively but most of the epiphyte plants are in rough shape battling algae. I will note that the 2 portions of Anubias sp white that were planted in shady areas are doing quite well.
I will continue to fight the good fight against this algae, performing water changes, almost daily scrubbing and manual removal, and keeping an eye on CO2 levels and lighting. As algae is opportunistic, I will attempt not to change too much more in the hopes that more stability will do the plants some good. Just yesterday I performed another water test which resulted in 0's in Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate, communicating to me that there isn't a biological balance issue at play here but truly a lighting and nutrient imbalance. The pH read at 6.4 (at peak CO2 saturation) and my GH was at 7 with a KH of 3. All favorable parameters.

Finally, a photo post-trim. I have resorted to more aggressive trimming and removal of algae-infested foliage. It's an aggressive cycle, however, damaging the plants and thus stressing them, perhaps inviting more algae. The same is true of adjusting my fertilizers and lighting. Now that those adjustments are made, I can only hope stability will come through to balance things out.
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Updates on the 30CM cube are much more brief. The water parameters are identical in that setup so I'll skip that.
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One change of note is that I did end up giving up on the Elatine Hydropiper. After 3 weeks it was entirely melted with no signs of new shoots. My priority with this scape is to reach a stable garden stage as soon as possible and didn't want to spend the extra time on that specific plant with all of the other issues I am facing. I simply transplanted my S. Repens to the foreground - they're a proven performer and can be quite beautiful when densely grown-in. I also gave up on the Rotala Florida. It was in a shaded area and wasn't growing fast enough to compete with the more aggressive stems. Perhaps I'll try it again once this scape has grown in. In it's place I left a larger open patch and populated that with the Hygrophila SP. Chai. For right now, it gets plenty of light and I'll live with the empty space behind it to give it some space from the stems. It has transitioned well and is sprouting those lovely pink leaves. In the future it really should be placed in front of the Alternanthera cluster as that will grow much taller and potentially shade it out with time. The bonsai is doing just fine, steadily growing and with no signs of melt. It's a good sign for me as, like I mentioned before, I struggled with this plant in my first setup. The rest of the stems are doing OK. I bit leggy and not growing evenly due to the sporadic planting of the Ludwigia sp white. That plant was so big and tall, and as it was transitioning I didn't want to bother it, so it shaded out some of the surrounding stems. In a few weeks I will transplant all of it to the back corner. I most likely will uproot all of the stems, cull off the unhealthy ones, and replant the best looking tops at a consistent height. This scape has already gone through 2 trimming cycles. I would estimate it will be looking much nicer in another month or so.

This concludes a long and very overdue update for the past 4 weeks. I held off mostly out of embarrassment if I'm being honest. As far as questions are concerned, I only have 1 regarding the 45P. I feel good about the reduced lighting setup I have running now but am a bit worried about the fertilizer dosing. As it is still a new setup, I am assuming the soil (tropica) has plenty of nutrients in it still. At the same time, I wonder if completely cutting of nitrates when the bio load is still very load will actually be detrimental to the plants and give the algae more opportunity to thrive. The 3rd sin I committed was changing multiple things at once (photoperiod, flow, fertilizers, and CO2) to try to solve all of my problems. Perhaps I was too harsh? As of now, 2 weeks into the fertilization change, there are no visible detriments to the plants. That's all from me, cheers,

Daniel
 
Love the write-up, honest and funny :clap:
You seem to have a decent handle on how to correct things, if I was to suggest anything it would be to lower the light intensity a little bit further just in this start up period. Then it can be ramped up slowly when algae is controlled and the plants are ready. At some point aggressive trimming of algae affected growth will start to take its toll on the plant health. If the underlying cause is not truly handled then repeated trimming can end up killing the plant. The difficult question is always if we have done enough to address the cause or not

Looking forward to following this journal 😃
 
How many amanos did you add? With algae like that I’d add 1per 5l and do 2 days with no photoperiod. I’d also trim the rotalas in your cube and float them in the 45p to increase plant mass.

I had a 45p running with the same light and an eheim 700lph filter and never went above 50% intensity for the first 4 months then up 5%every 2 weeks until I was running it at 85%. My tank had more planting density than yours which will have helped though. As for dosing I was doing 2ml of tropica specialized everyday from day one.
 
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Weeks 6 and 7 (photos from the middle of week 7).

45P:
After the last update the hair algae in this tank was just clearing up before it was replaced with another filamentous variation - this one much curlier, courser, and a darker green. It has been much more difficult to manually remove but didn't proliferate nearly as quickly. I began dosing protogen, the protozoan starter culture, and noticed that the areas of UG I injected the mix with had the most algae. Perhaps it was too soon or too much.
pre-maintenance.jpg

One issue I had was that the various chainswords on the left side of the tank became almost entirely uprooted. Before this new algae outbreak, the shrimp were really digging up the soil in search for food. That, combined with the direction of the water flow and prior avalanches resulted in this. I decided to cut out / uproot any grasses with exposed roots. I then broke them up into smaller portions and replanted them. It's a hiccup for sure, but I didn't see them faring very well with their roots exposed in that manner. Overall they had spread quite well and there were runners tangled up with everything. I hope that with a few weeks time they will recover and carry on.
exposed roots.jpg
chainsword detail.jpg

The UG patches I have left had become quite bushy despite the algae infestation. This plant seems pretty unbothered by the presence of algae. Of course, too much blocks out light and robs CO2, but in general if the plant gets the nutrients it needs from preying on small organisms, the algae shouldn't be too much of an inhibitor if the light is strong and CO2 is plentiful. This, of course, is not a shrugging-off of the detriments of algae. Get rid of it at all costs! But it just seemed to me that the UG didn't mind it as much as other plants do, which makes some sense. Because of the constant uprooting of before, there were only a few focused locations of dense growth. I decided to trim all of the UG down and replant any portions with runners and bladders. But then I noticed some leaflets that were splitting in two at the top from an apparent breakage. I also noticed individual leaflets sprouting new plants, just like some ferns do. This got me to thinking about how this plant really propagates. As an experiment, I decided to replant individual, healthy blades as well to see if they would become new growth nodes. This fellow attempted to grow UG from clippings and seemed to have some success. I essentially replanted everything from my trimming that wasn't too algae infested. It's a fascinating plant to work with and has gotten me thinking quite differently about propagation and care when compared to other plants I have worked with. Lots of fun
UG cushion Left.jpg
UG cushion right.jpg
UG detail.jpg
ug split.jpg

Finally, the weeping moss on my stones is quite healthy and generally algae free. I trim it regularly and it continues to spread. I haven't been too pleased with the other epiphytes I have but have decided to just leave them be and let them do their thing. It can be surprising what epiphytes will do when left alone. Who knows, in a few months things could look quite different.
healthy moss.jpg

Finally, a post-maintenance photo showing all of the replanted carpeting plants. Part of bringing this scape together will be to achieve a dense carpet of both the grasses and the UG. The majority of other plants are doing just fine, so the carpet has been my primary focus. It's a waiting game, I know. I hope to be getting closer in the next few weeks. As a last note, I decided to dose APT Complete once a week to give some of the faster growing plants a boost. Still relying mainly on APT zero (3 times a week) but figured some of the plants could be suffering from a lack of nitrogen.
post maintenance.jpg


30 CM Cube:

This tank has been trucking along pretty well. At this time it still was suffering from diatoms. An annoyance but still not a major concern for me. I did the inverse with fertilization on this setup - dosing APT complete 3 times a week now and breaking it with APT zero once per week. This just to slow down the growth a bit and attempt to hinder some algae. I'm not sure if it's a significant enough change, but time will tell. After the last update stem plants were looking a bit scraggly and generally not to my liking. I had trimmed it back a few times to remove the old emergent growth but I felt it was necessary to do some major rearrangements.
First, I trimmed down the Rotala Bonsai a little bit. I also nipped down the S. Repens some. I then uprooted the two Alternanthera SPs and switched their place with the Hygrophila SP Chai. I've decided I can live with a big open patch close to the front if it gives the Chai the best chance to flourish. As far as the Rotala and Ludwigia are concerned, I uprooted all of them, discarded any unleahty plants, and cut off the best looking stems for re-planting. I really ended up thinning things out quite a bit. It means I'm a lot further from a full bush but I want to give these plants a good chance to be healthy. I decided to consolidate the Ludwigia SP white to the back corner. It's a big plant with a large spread and really doesn't play nice when interspersed with other species. An interesting thing I've noticed is that it grows almost completely white with high nitrogen in this scape while it is more pink, almost as pink as the Chai, in the lower nitrogen 45P. (I need to consolidate it there too, just haven't gotten to it yet). In general the foreground / mid ground is on its way to looking quite nice. The background bushes will require quite a bit more gymnastics on my part. It's difficult to get that look in such a small setup but has been done plenty of times. Once again, it will require some patience. For both of these scapes, I'm happy to take my time and get them to a stable and healthy place. I'm beginning to consider fish, but don't think I'll be introducing any for another month or two at least.
cube.jpg
cube overall.jpg
cube + chai.jpg
 

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