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(NO MORE) 2,000L High tech BEAST

Zeus.

Fertz Calc Meister
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1 Oct 2016
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4,274
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Yorkshire,UK
I see no reason for the 6500 pump?If it is in series behind the 10,000 pump?The 10,000 will still only pump 10,000 regardless of if the 6500 is there or not?

I can see a reason why I would try it ;) , the total output will be 10,000 regardless OFC, But as long as a bypass is fitted so the water the 6500 doesnt take can return to the tank unimpeded it should work, be better is on a separate return inlet OFC, plus if a bypass is fitted it technically isnt in true series its more of a spur. Plus it means he can run the CO2 reactors at a higher pressure which should increase CO2 uptake by the water . Plus using the feed from the 10,000 means less piping which is good IMO. My independent lines gets dirty and cant wait to get rid if it ;)

Then boost the tank turnover with a couple of gyres, no piping easy to clean great flow

Just my opinion ;)
 

foxfish

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11 Oct 2009
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Guernsey
96503354-8E2C-4431-B6D0-9E6D5D766376.jpeg
CB71312C-01A4-436E-9AB4-42A961A8AD6A.jpeg
A couple of sketches showing how I have plumbed in sumps in the past.
First one show a single large pump that is regulated by back feeding a trickle tower.
Second one shows how a cut down plastic bottle can be used to feed C02 directly into the return pump, a good, no maintainace, method of getting a lot of gas into the tank.
 

Filip Krupa

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13 Oct 2016
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Liverpool
I can see a reason why I would try it ;) , the total output will be 10,000 regardless OFC, But as long as a bypass is fitted so the water the 6500 doesnt take can return to the tank unimpeded it should work, be better is on a separate return inlet OFC, plus if a bypass is fitted it technically isnt in true series its more of a spur. Plus it means he can run the CO2 reactors at a higher pressure which should increase CO2 uptake by the water . Plus using the feed from the 10,000 means less piping which is good IMO. My independent lines gets dirty and cant wait to get rid if it ;)

Then boost the tank turnover with a couple of gyres, no piping easy to clean great flow

Just my opinion ;)

Zeus! Nailed it.

The one thing I will have to make sure, is to never turn the 10,000 L pump down to a point where the 6,500 L is taking more than the 10,000 is supplying. I think the pumps will be fine, it just might create a syphon back from the DT, through the reactors and back into DT.

Ta
Filip
 

ian_m

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Basically, to prevent any pump overdriving another pump issue, you could/should plumb up as below.

1. Two independent circuits, quite commonly done to keep CO2 injection away from filters etc. Also easier straight through plumbing, easier to maintain, easier to implement, no T joints, no flow going wrong way issues, a total flow rate of 16,500 l :))), a lot of positives for this method. This method both pumps can be kept underwater in the sump, so no issues of running dry if power fails. Each pump will need to be in its own sump section as if in the same section one pump might remove all the water and end up running the other pump dry.
upload_2018-6-12_9-43-7.png


2. CO2 injection loop in main pump circuit. Make the pipe after the 10,000l pump bigger than pump pipes, as it now has to take 10,000l + 6,500l flow as in diagram. This could be made from say a length of 40mm (or 32mm) solvent weld plastic waste pipe, with suitable T pieces and hose barbs. Again no issues of pumps fighting each others flow. Notice I the reverse flow of the 6,500l pump compared to your original diagram. Careful thought need to be taken with possible failure modes.
upload_2018-6-12_9-42-18.png


You will also need to consider all the possibly failure modes of such systems:
- If not careful during power failure you will end up syphoning the main tank into the sump and then onto the floor !!! :)eek:).
- After power failure need to ensure that pumps can't run dry (like in first diagram if both pumps are in the sump) as most pumps won't self prime if full of air.
- If one pump jams/fails is powered off system won't overflow sump or main tank.
- Ease of maintenance and cleaning of the system.
 

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Filip Krupa

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Basically, to prevent any pump overdriving another pump issue, you could/should plumb up as below.

Looks like solid suggestions. Love the edit on my technical drawing ;)

Option 1 - looks like I can already run it this way if I change my mind. Only a matter of closing/opening 2 valves. Except my pumps aren't submerged!

Option 2 - this one is interesting! I would have never though of it.

To avoid a back syphon, I will drill some holes in the plumbing, inside the DT just at the water level. This should break the syphon, as it does in my 400L oscar tank.
The risk of overflowing my sump is near impossible in any case. It has an overflow into the house waste.

It appears that my main concerns are around the health of the pumps.

As for maintenance, I dont mind cleaning the pumps.
If the hoses ever need cleaning. They will get thrown and replaced with new ones :D

Thanks again.
Fil
 

ian_m

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As for maintenance, I dont mind cleaning the pumps.
Generally also, a lot of people place a full bore valve on outlet of pump, in the sump, so you can isolate the pump for maintenance/cleaning.

Also as your pumps and flow are so large, I would be tempted to plumb the whole lot in fixed ridge plastic, nicely attached to you tank stand via sound isolating pipe clips. Look how the marine big tank boys plumb theirs in. Couple of links to pictures of rigid PVC plumbing as done by the really really really big boys (with associated wallet sizes).

http://www.ultimatereef.net/threads/the-last-upgrade-l-shaped-account.824875/page-12#post-7821750

http://www.ultimatereef.net/threads/indoor-fish-tank-pond.802638/page-13#post-7641197

http://www.ultimatereef.net/threads/daves-1-200-gallon-double-reef-drop-off.557219/#post-5105518

Please be very careful when reading the above links as it will make you realise, unfortunately, how small your tank really is !!!! :(.
 

zozo

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I've tried pantyhose as diy filtersock in the sump.. Experienced them to clog relatively soon. Too soon actualy, the fabric/mesh is to dense. :)
 

Filip Krupa

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Why the fans? I have almost the same and they don't get that hot. ( could be mine are 30W, not at home atm)

Good question.
I read somewhere that floodlights of large wattage get really hot indoors when on for hours, which reduces their lifespan and efficiency.
They were right, mine get very hot. The fans were cheapo, so its a low cost solution.

Also, Ive used 30w floods over a tank before and a couple died on me. Although I will never know if overheating is what did them in.
 

Filip Krupa

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I've tried pantyhose as diy filtersock in the sump.. Experienced them to clog relatively soon. Too soon actualy, the fabric/mesh is to dense. :)

You might be right.
I'll just have to hang out in a ladies lingerie shop for a better product!

Fil
 

zozo

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You might be right.
I'll just have to hang out in a ladies lingerie shop for a better product!

Fil
Or search ebay or aliexpress for filter sock.. They come awfully cheap about the same price as a pair of quality pantyhoses. :)
 

zozo

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I shall check it out, thanks.
Was hoping that the extra length would compensate for the high density.

They are so dense the might trap air and gass as well, they surprisingly need quite some pressure to blow the air through even more the dirtier they become. It wouldn't surpise me if you find them ballooning and floating one day with such length.. But have to say, i also have no long term experience with filter socks, lately made a sump build and installed one.. Still haven't ran it long enough to see how it works in the long run. But initialy it looks very good and way better than lingerie..
 

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