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Oase BioMaster Thermo External Filter

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Hello everyone, here is a solution from Oase USA that totally stopped the air purging of my BioMaster thermo 600. In essence don’t push the hoses too far back on the inlet and outlet, the lock ring needs to be engaged far enough to create a seal and prevent air from being sucked in, especially important if using stop valves to restrict flow. Also make sure you have the updated filter head, Oase will send one out if you’re still under warranty.

“where you have your tubes attached, can you be sure that all of the tubes are pushed ALL the way down to the lip of the in and out and to your inlet and outlet, when you tie down the locking ring, make sure you can see two threads exposed on the opposite side.”
From your second pic, you appear to have the nut on the hose, put hose onto inlet then screw down the nut leaving two threads exposed. Whereas the manual shows the nuts put on the thread first, before fitting hose, and then screwing up a couple of turns?

just set up my 350 and am having the air problem, I did it the manual way and also have two threads showing
 
From your second pic, you appear to have the nut on the hose, put hose onto inlet then screw down the nut leaving two threads exposed. Whereas the manual shows the nuts put on the thread first, before fitting hose, and then screwing up a couple of turns?

just set up my 350 and am having the air problem, I did it the manual way and also have two threads showing

You’re correct, the nuts go on the threads first before fitting the hoses, then tighten the nuts to expose two threads. This is what I did in the second pic, first pic was for illustration how far to push the hoses down without the nuts obstructing the view. If you installed quick connector valves and/or inline Co2 diffuser check those connections also and tighten nuts in a similar fashion as the filter hoses. If restricting flow with one of the quick connector valves only do so on the outflow side and leave the inflow valve open all the way. Once you start the unit shake it gently backward and forwards, and from side to side to release the trapped air. If you’re using a skimmer on the inflow ensure the flow is not too strong as to suck air from the surface skimmer. And lastly do you have the new filter head design?


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You’re correct, the nuts go on the threads first before fitting the hoses, then tighten the nuts to expose two threads. This is what I did in the second pic, first pic was for illustration how far to push the hoses down without the nuts obstructing the view. If you installed quick connector valves and/or inline Co2 diffuser check those connections also and tighten nuts in a similar fashion as the filter hoses. If restricting flow with one of the quick connector valves only do so on the outflow side and leave the inflow valve open all the way. Once you start the unit shake it gently backward and forwards, and from side to side to release the trapped air. If you’re using a skimmer on the inflow ensure the flow is not too strong as to suck air from the surface skimmer. And lastly do you have the new filter head design?


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Not restricting flow at all, yesterday I put silicon grease on all seals/o rings reassembled and once up and running. gently shook. This produced a lot of air. About 15 mins later I had a huge amount of air expel, then it was fine for about 15 mins, then another huge air expulsion. Now it's back to doing it every 10 mins or so, but doesn't seem to be as much as previously.

Have just taken head off to photograph as haven't a clue whether it's the new version or not (only bought late December 2020) and also included a pic showing the inlet/outlet on my tank (tiny bubbles on glass are because I just changed the water)

Thanks (Edit, added a 3rd pic outlining where the filter outposts to the aquarium as not very clear in original pic)
 

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Not restricting flow at all, yesterday I put silicon grease on all seals/o rings reassembled and once up and running. gently shook. This produced a lot of air. About 15 mins later I had a huge amount of air expel, then it was fine for about 15 mins, then another huge air expulsion. Now it's back to doing it every 10 mins or so, but doesn't seem to be as much as previously.

Have just taken head off to photograph as haven't a clue whether it's the new version or not (only bought late December 2020) and also included a pic showing the inlet/outlet on my tank (tiny bubbles on glass are because I just changed the water)

Thanks (Edit, added a 3rd pic outlining where the filter outposts to the aquarium as not very clear in original pic)

Forgot to mention I also used silicone grease on all seals/o rings. Great that there is an improvement, mine took about 24 hours before all the air purging stopped, keep shaking it side to side during this period.
You have the new filter head design. This page might be of further interest Oase BioMaster Thermo External Filter


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Hello from Russia. No one has yet found a 100% solution to the problem with sucking air? I have this issue, like, maybe half of the year already, and I'am still, don't find any solution. I have tried all possible options.
I contacted the official reseller, here in Russia. They sent me a new head for my Oase Biomaster 600 Thermo, 3 days ago. And I still have this air bubbles and vibration with noises.

I tryed: Changed my Lilly Pipes for stock oase tube; changed socket; cleaned and changed fillers baskets extender; 3 (!) times greased all rings, tubes, joints; I cuted end-to-end hoses, that there would be no sagging; carefully dismantled and cleaned all parts; changed location of the filter from nightstand to floor;
 
Hello everyone, here is a solution from Oase USA that totally stopped the air purging of my BioMaster thermo 600. In essence don’t push the hoses too far back on the inlet and outlet, the lock ring needs to be engaged far enough to create a seal and prevent air from being sucked in, especially important if using stop valves to restrict flow. Also make sure you have the updated filter head, Oase will send one out if you’re still under warranty.

“where you have your tubes attached, can you be sure that all of the tubes are pushed ALL the way down to the lip of the in and out and to your inlet and outlet, when you tie down the locking ring, make sure you can see two threads exposed on the opposite side.”
I have same connection hoses, it's don't pushed to far back. Don't have any stop valves, using updated filter head - and still, have air issue on my Thermo 600. 😢

Also, can you please tell me, first link on pic - it's new head? Or the second one, with grip on locked mechanism of pump?
 
I have same connection hoses, it's don't pushed to far back. Don't have any stop valves, using updated filter head - and still, have air issue on my Thermo 600.

Also, can you please tell me, first link on pic - it's new head? Or the second one, with grip on locked mechanism of pump?

Hey, sorry to hear you’re still having air issues with air :-/ Both links are of the same filter head, and you have the new one. Sounds like you’ve checked everything, the only suggestion is to double check all the seals again including the heater one and make sure they are seated correctly. And your hose connections one more time and make sure the rings are tightened well. Moving the unit down to the floor will make a difference, it can take 12-24 hours for all the air to be expelled.


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Hey, sorry to hear you’re still having air issues with air :-/ Both links are of the same filter head, and you have the new one. Sounds like you’ve checked everything, the only suggestion is to double check all the seals again including the heater one and make sure they are seated correctly. And your hose connections one more time and make sure the rings are tightened well. Moving the unit down to the floor will make a difference, it can take 12-24 hours for all the air to be expelled.


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Oh, Yea, it's new one. Heater checked on old head, idk. I suppose it will leak if not inserted correctly. It is physically impossible to insert something wrong there. Seals at the moment, on new head - in original grease. On old head I used over the original, Aquael silicone lubricant - nothing has changed. Of course, I will try to do everything this again. Maybe allready in, somewhere, 10 times. But I guess it's a road to nowhere, and nothing will change. The problem for anyone is something else. Where I have not tried to do anything yet. It remains only to understand where exactly.....
Maybe I should try remove originally blue nuts, and use coupler clamp on hose. I talked with my comrades, some one do this on Eheim filters. Since there may be a microscopic crack in the plastic of blue nuts....

I will continue my torment and experiments, if I don't give up on it, I will write here what helped me in my case.
Usually, after the head is removed once. 2-3 days of silence pass, and only then the air appears again. This makes it harder to find source of issue.
 
Oh, Yea, it's new one. Heater checked on old head, idk. I suppose it will leak if not inserted correctly. It is physically impossible to insert something wrong there. Seals at the moment, on new head - in original grease. On old head I used over the original, Aquael silicone lubricant - nothing has changed. Of course, I will try to do everything this again. Maybe allready in, somewhere, 10 times. But I guess it's a road to nowhere, and nothing will change. The problem for anyone is something else. Where I have not tried to do anything yet. It remains only to understand where exactly.....
Maybe I should try remove originally blue nuts, and use coupler clamp on hose. I talked with my comrades, some one do this on Eheim filters. Since there may be a microscopic crack in the plastic of blue nuts....

I will continue my torment and experiments, if I don't give up on it, I will write here what helped me in my case.
Usually, after the head is removed once. 2-3 days of silence pass, and only then the air appears again. This makes it harder to find source of issue.

You’re so right that it can be different things for different people. The hose clamps will rule that part out for sure! A shame so many people are having issues with the BioMaster filters, they would be perfect otherwise, mine I hardly hear, the electrical surface skimmer makes more noise! Best of luck and keep us updated friend.


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Hello everyone,

I am interested in buying the biomaster thermo 850 for my 75 gallon. Is there such a thing like older and newer version?
I am asking this because of some confusing posts above about updated filter's head. Last but not least, do you in general recommend this filter?

Thank you in advance,
Fred
 
I think the 850 was released, as a model, after the head units design changes were implemented also, so in theory at least, all 850 units should be the newer design.
 
I think the 850 was released, as a model, after the head units design changes were implemented also, so in theory at least, all 850 units should be the newer design.
Ah ok, that is good! I v asked the shop for clarifications and they returned back to me with no answer. They dont even know if there is an older and an updated version.
 
Ah ok, that is good! I v asked the shop for clarifications and they returned back to me with no answer. They dont even know if there is an older and an updated version.
I just ask for clarification to OASE and they said that some initial filters come with an issue, but all are now solved/replaced.
 
I just ask for clarification to OASE and they said that some initial filters come with an issue, but all are now solved/replaced.
I have also sent an email to oase and they said that the 850 version doesn't have any updates. Theoretically it is updated since it is the last model in product line.
So I guess it's fine to proceed on the purchase.
 
I have also sent an email to oase and they said that the 850 version doesn't have any updates. Theoretically it is updated since it is the last model in product line.
So I guess it's fine to proceed on the purchase.
I hope so, should be possible return the filter in case we don't like it, or make a "test drive" first... :)
 
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