Oase external thermo filters

Marc Jackson

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16 Mar 2019
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Suffolk - almost
Has anyone had experience of these as I am thinking of buying two 600's. I've seen Pondguru's YouTube run down on them but wondered if anyone on here uses them. Is there anyway of modifying the pre-filter?
 

e.jgodette

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14 May 2019
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Newport, North Carolina,USA
I have a Biomaster 600 that I retro fitted with the 300 watt heat up heater. It is running in a 30 gallon planted aquarium. I’ve had a lot of problems with it CONSTANTLY purging air and flow not being good. I’ve finally come to the conclusion that it is because of the prefilter. The prefilter sponges that came with my filter (which were the black 60ppi sponges) were too fine and due to the strain on the system it sucked in air which in turn caused the filter to CONSTANTLY purge air. So...I removed one of the sponges and unfortunately this did not resolve the problem. So I watched Pondguru’s video. I drilled extra holes in the prefilter tubing, ordered the orange 30ppi sponges from Amazon, and removed all the 60ppi sponges from the prefilter. With NO sponges in the prefilter chamber and the extra holes in the tubing the flow is considerably better, the filter is totally quiet and THE PURGING HAS STOPPED. HOWEVER, when I added JUST 3 of the Orange 30ppi sponges to the prefilter...the purging of air started again, but not nearly as much as before. So I’ve taken them out again and the filter runs flawlessly again. So now I’ve cut some large slits in the Orange 30ppi sponges and I’m going to put them back into the prefilter. I’ll let you know what happens. This is my experience with this filter (over a 2 month period). I hope this helps.
 
Joined
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United Kingdom
I have a Biomaster 600 that I retro fitted with the 300 watt heat up heater. It is running in a 30 gallon planted aquarium. I’ve had a lot of problems with it CONSTANTLY purging air and flow not being good. I’ve finally come to the conclusion that it is because of the prefilter. The prefilter sponges that came with my filter (which were the black 60ppi sponges) were too fine and due to the strain on the system it sucked in air which in turn caused the filter to CONSTANTLY purge air. So...I removed one of the sponges and unfortunately this did not resolve the problem. So I watched Pondguru’s video. I drilled extra holes in the prefilter tubing, ordered the orange 30ppi sponges from Amazon, and removed all the 60ppi sponges from the prefilter. With NO sponges in the prefilter chamber and the extra holes in the tubing the flow is considerably better, the filter is totally quiet and THE PURGING HAS STOPPED. HOWEVER, when I added JUST 3 of the Orange 30ppi sponges to the prefilter...the purging of air started again, but not nearly as much as before. So I’ve taken them out again and the filter runs flawlessly again. So now I’ve cut some large slits in the Orange 30ppi sponges and I’m going to put them back into the prefilter. I’ll let you know what happens. This is my experience with this filter (over a 2 month period). I hope this helps.
Very interesting E.Jgodette.

I've got the 250 thermo, which is the smaller version of what you have. The first few times I got it running, I would sit there shaking it until it stopped making a trickling noise, then I discovered I was wasting my time because it sorts itself out once it's been running for 15 minutes or so.

I too have taken the Pondguru's advice and drilled as many holes in the prefilter tube, which hasn't made much of a difference to the flow. This is the area I'm a little disappointed with, so I bought a small circulation pump to get the water moving properly. I need to clean that prefilter, so will give it a go with no sponges in there. I used the blue sponges that are found in the trays to make the round sponges for the prefilter, since these are the right coarseness. The round sponges that come in the prefilter are a medium coarseness, which is really odd. Surely you have the coarsest sponge first, working down to the white wadding?

p.s. I also have an inline diffuser, so that probably reduces the flow. I would prefer having an in tank diffuser and no circulation pump, but I doubt it would make a big enough difference to the flow for it to work.
 
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Marc Jackson

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16 Mar 2019
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136
Location
Suffolk - almost
Going off on a tangent somewhat.... Whatever happened to the Eheim wet and dry cannister filters? They still have the thermo filter range (expensive) but did the whole wet and dry thing die a death?
 

alto

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24 Dec 2014
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5,883
I’ve had a lot of problems with it CONSTANTLY purging air and flow not being good.
I’d consider this filter a FAIL and return or replace
Filter is designed (& sold in many multiples) to run with the prefilters, and I suspect most owners don’t replace the stock sponges
 

dw1305

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7 Apr 2008
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10,438
Location
nr Bath
Hi all,
Whatever happened to the Eheim wet and dry cannister filters? They still have the thermo filter range (expensive) but did the whole wet and dry thing die a death?
I think they died a death.

I like the idea of them, but I think the issue was that people found the noise was a bit distracting when they filled and drained.

There are usually some second-hand ones available via a well known auction site, I was very tempted to bid on a second hand Eheim 2227 a couple of months ago and I think it eventually went for ~£40.

I had a look a minute ago and the only one at the moment appears to be a 2329 thermo-filter for £150.

cheers Darrel
 

Geoffrey Rea

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Joined
27 May 2017
Messages
863
Location
Cambridgeshire
but I think the issue was that people found the noise was a bit distracting when they filled and drained.
They weren’t the quietest. It’s a shame because wet dry is a really good idea in principal. Currently designing a wet dry sump for an AS600 so we’ll see how much noise can be suppressed through design.
 

e.jgodette

New Member
Joined
14 May 2019
Messages
5
Location
Newport, North Carolina,USA
I have a Biomaster 600 that I retro fitted with the 300 watt heat up heater. It is running in a 30 gallon planted aquarium. I’ve had a lot of problems with it CONSTANTLY purging air and flow not being good. I’ve finally come to the conclusion that it is because of the prefilter. The prefilter sponges that came with my filter (which were the black 60ppi sponges) were too fine and due to the strain on the system it sucked in air which in turn caused the filter to CONSTANTLY purge air. So...I removed one of the sponges and unfortunately this did not resolve the problem. So I watched Pondguru’s video. I drilled extra holes in the prefilter tubing, ordered the orange 30ppi sponges from Amazon, and removed all the 60ppi sponges from the prefilter. With NO sponges in the prefilter chamber and the extra holes in the tubing the flow is considerably better, the filter is totally quiet and THE PURGING HAS STOPPED. HOWEVER, when I added JUST 3 of the Orange 30ppi sponges to the prefilter...the purging of air started again, but not nearly as much as before. So I’ve taken them out again and the filter runs flawlessly again. So now I’ve cut some large slits in the Orange 30ppi sponges and I’m going to put them back into the prefilter. I’ll let you know what happens. This is my experience with this filter (over a 2 month period). I hope this helps.
**FOLLOW UP ON INITIAL POST**
After cutting large slits in the Orange 30ppi sponges I added 3 to the prefilter chamber: one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom of the prefilter tubing in which I drilled holes. I also drilled a few more hole in the tube to be on the safe side. The filter has continued to work better than it did initially. The flow is better and it has stopped purging air. I also would like to add that I have coarse, medium, and fine sponges in the bottom tray, Seachem Matrix in the middle four trays and the original fine sponge, a polishing pad and Purigen in the very top tray.
 

rubadudbdub

Member
Joined
27 Oct 2015
Messages
117
Could it be changing the media within the main cannister body that's causing these air purging episodes and burning out heaters?

Removing the included blue foams and fine orange foam and replacing them with more free flowing media may be reducing resistance within the cannister body. The pump head would then generate negative pressure behind the fine prefilter foams, which would be proportionally worse on bigger models with higher flow rates. The negative pressure may then pull air past one of the seals (prefilter or heater seem more likely than main body) making it purge and filling the heater chamber with air.

However, I'm not an engineer so I may be flawed in my thinking.

I have the smallest biomaster thermo, 250 I think is the number. It has original fine pre filter sponges, original blue sponge then a very shallow layer of old style ehfisubstrat, with the oase fine orange pad at the top. Flow is not great, but in 18 months it's not had the purging issues or heater failures other people have mentioned.
 

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