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Olympus is Calling.

Great job.
Thats a great set up you have there.

Thanks m8 :D still very much work in progress, but that's expected since still learning the craft. After all the filter boosters are all yours really as you put me on to them :thumbup:
 
Had a little test to see if all the CO2 going though one atomiser and reactor would work so joined the solenoids outputs together with a 6mm quick fitting. Reduced the flow through the bypass so more water going though the reactors too but still keeping them quiet
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so basically the needle valve on Very high BBS 'I' and other needle valve on high BBS 'FX'. Worked a treat

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So got pH drop in 62 minutes and the pH controller had to boost the CO2 input twice. pH drop faster than yesterday also, put this down to the better flow through the reactors. But I have found since having the auto adjusting CO2 on time it does vary day to day as the pH changes with the rocks and AS and the intail pH of the day can vary quiet a bit on WC day compared to day before WC, I assume this will be the same in all tanks esp with hardscape and AS

If it works well which it seems to be doing ATM I can use the second APS Filter Booster for a few Bags of Purigen and have crystal clear water all the time :D
 
Just a little update on the Twin CO2 reactors, still working on the balance of flow and input CO2 rates. But aiming for a high CO2 input rate and good surface agitation as per Dennis Chongs Videos on CO2.

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Nailed the High CO2 injection rate 35 Mins to get the pH drop and not a gasping fish in sight. Starting pH 7.29 (after WC) Target pH 6.66. I had read about letting the fish acclimitase to the changing [CO2] as it may shock the fish, but my understanding of physiological changes in the blood in humans with higher [CO2] and respiration rates if the [CO2] change took 2hrs or 20mins as long as the critical blood [CO2] isnt exceeded the time it takes is irrelevant as long as its in the similar order of magnitude. Fish are are ancestors so i assumed they will be using a similar if more basic control of respiration. So little leap of faith.
 
One of the admin pointed me to your thread, and I read with much interest!

I am just in process to convert my reef tank of 1000litres to all planted.

Given me some great ideas. Good job on yours!
 
Excellent Journal and a great read.
Reading through this wants me to rip out my plumbing and start again.
Great job and thanks for the advice.
 
Excellent Journal and a great read.
Reading through this wants me to rip out my plumbing and start again.
Great job and thanks for the advice.

Thanks :D Glad you found it helpful, makes keeping it updated more worth while :thumbup:
 
Zeus, been following your journal and finding it very interesting. Your persistence and hard work has clearly paid off.

I have a 750L tank (sump volume included) and to say that I've been struggling with plants would be an understatement.

Granted I don't use CO2, so it's very interesting to read all the work you've done in your 500L.

Few questions:

1. You opted for an atomizer vs reactor. Why?

2. How big is your CO2 tank and how frequently do you refill?

3. What's your photoperiod and CO2 run time/day?

Thank you and please keep the updates coming.
 
1. You opted for an atomizer vs reactor. Why?

intank are ugly so went for up inline atomisers, then when I got sick of soda fiiled tank did the reactors, no bubbles and faster pH drop- win win

How big is your CO2 tank and how frequently do you refill?

6Kg on the fourth or firth refill in one year- but I am going for the MAX [CO2] to help combat algea and pin holes BBA etc. If I was aiming for lime green on drop checker the pH drop is really quick and lower BPS, so with your tank a hybrid approach my benefit your tank IMO and a lime green Drop checker [CO2] may be enough so you would use much less CO2

What's your photoperiod and CO2 run time/day?

Short answer Full 1.0 pH drop for lights on with CO2 going off 1hr before end of lights on. Long answer the PLC and pH controller adjust the CO2 on time based on how long it took the day before, default preCO2 on time 60mins pre lights, the high CO2 injection rate drops the pH fast turns the drop checker lime green in less than 30mins.
Photo period 6hrs
 
Thank you Zeus for the comprehensive reply.

Just curious, why do you shoot for a pH 1.0 drop? Isn't that consider a rather big decrease? Is this sustainable in the long term?
 
Thank you Zeus for the comprehensive reply.

Just curious, why do you shoot for a pH 1.0 drop? Isn't that consider a rather big decrease? Is this sustainable in the long term?

Well I shoot for as High as possible, a little below the point where fish start to gasp,

The reason are bad/difficult tank design, poor plant choices so carpet 50cm deep needs light But C helferi right at the surface needs not too much. S0 the Helferi gets BBA if too much light or carpet fails to flourish if not enough light. Ferts on full EI plus.
So the help the carpet grow with the least amount of light possible I need the MAX amount of [CO2] and to help control the BBA on tips of Helferi which gets TONS of light i need the MAX amount of [CO2]

So kill two birds with one stone, the high [CO2] is only recent I have to admit, after seeing the carpet struggle after last trim I didnt want to increase the light duration or intensity, SO maxed out the [CO2] and with an increase of PO4 dose too the carpet is pearling slightly after 3hrs of light on a lower light setting than I have used before.

CO2 is free after all - read that in a thread by very smart person, reason you have to think its free is otherwise you fail to unlock CO2 full potential - I have to agree :thumbup:
 
Little Vid of my CO2 BPS



Had some pH controller issues at weekend, fish gasping :nailbiting: , thought a probe went down but after multiple calibration with Buffers probe still not right, put spare on and still no good so thought controler may be FCUKed. But buffer was old and had no spare buffer salts. So got a pH pen and buffer salts next day prime plus more buffer solution for later checking. Sorted it out when the buffer salts arrived had no distilled water but a good sample of RO water. Old probe calibrated good with repeated checks with buffers and all is good. Also managed to find the sweat spot of BPS where no extra CO2 boost needed throughout the photo period, Slow steady drop of 0.1 ph throughout the photoperiod yesterday, little drop at last hour OFC, so decreased the working CO2 PSI on regulator a touch.

Theodoxus Fluviatilis -Theos that I added are doing great, shells all intact and doubled in size easy
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If you look close on them, you can see how the snails shell pattern has changed with more lager white spots/columns with the lower pH since being in tank, got some more from
frothhelmet just arrived today so should have them in at weekend.
 
The fight against the algae seemed to be failing esp on the high plants like the C Helferi. I checked the Ferts the other week and auto dosing volumes was correct but I didnt check the LCO2 volume Big mistake it was getting nothing as the pipe was squashed/nipped in the tight space at end of tank
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pic is an old one but shows how tight I am for space, think its been getting no LCO2 for some time. Probably from when I took all the pipes off for cleaning:banghead: So Bad/Good news day. Plan to update the ferts/LCO2 piping for some more solid piping so it doesn't happen again
 
Hello Zeus. Im trying to know about how can I put the external atomizer ( Jbl proflora direct ).

I doubt into the outter hose to aquarium or the inner direction hose to filter.:bawling:

Regards from Toledo :jimlad:
 
I used the same one
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Have a 16mm on one and 22mm on the other, just winged it with fittings, but the APS EF comes with 12mm and 16mm fittings. But it does reduce down to 12mm. Which one to use depends on which size hose your filter uses
 
very interesting read...can someone provide a link for the Dennis Chongs Videos on CO2 mentioned above please.

tks,
 
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