The only thing that’s a little high for my taste is the dKH, I always preferred a number between 7.5-8 but that’s just how my tank ran.
Corals definitely prefer consistency over trying to hone in on set parameters.
I’ve seen tanks with NO3 well above 10x what yours is reading and there’s been no adverse affect.
I don't know if you turn the flow off to feed but it's the movement that triggers the strike, so if you do, try a gentle waft of the food with a turkey baster or similar.
They tend to carry on as they would in the wild and then slowly, over a number of months, start switching themselves by taken small bits of frozen that are lying around.
Do you have a timescale?
I'm guessing your maintenance with the sand is pretty good but generally I'd use new sand (but seed the old with a couple of cups from the old tank)
Basically it's any detritus that would be the biggest thing to worry about but since the volume is so much larger I wouldn't be overly concerned.
With livestock you can acclimate in the normal way or just water change between the two tanks, so they have matching water.
I’ve done it over a longer period and lost a few corals as a result.
I’d completely disagree with the above and providing the water SG and temp match, just move it all across.
Corals are tougher than we give credit for and I never acclimated a single one, I floated them to match temp and in they went.
No dipping, no drip acclimating.
That should do it.
Most of the normal concerns are eliminated by not using the old substrate as this is where the risk of quick starting a cycle can lie (although in your case that's probably a very small risk).
The flow will be different which can definitely annoy fleshy lps and depending on where you go with the lighting, it won't be exactly the same (I don't know the depth of the tank or spread of the lights) and I've seem more corals frazzled by light than die of other reasons.