Plant doctors to the emergency! Please help

denizyendi

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29 Jun 2020
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turkey
Hi,
it's been 2 months since I planted these beauties. I bought six specific fertilizers, nitrate, potassium, phosphate, carbon, iron, and trace elements(). my water ph was 8,4 but now I managed to drop and fix it to 7,5 using some vinegar first (obviously a bad decision since it caused bacterial bloom) and then ripe phosphoric acid added water(3-4 days waited before adding). my temperatures around 28 Celcius. I have programmed a daylight simulation starting with red dominant led and towards noon 20 W grow light is activated and daytime doesn't exceed 8 hours. In the filter, there are seachem matrix, peat moss, and ceramic rings. I used to change water almost every day with small amounts but recently in 3- 4 days %10. it seems like mosses,Hemianthus micranthemoides and rotala are recovering but others (Heteranthera zosterifolia and Hygrophila polysperma) are still mad at me. In a few days, I will start adding CO2 (yeast+sugar). As a company, I have 10 shrimps,5 tetras, a suckermouth, and a bunch of bladder snails. I have blackish rocks from the local old volcano, almond leaves, a few pine cones, and a beautiful coconut shrimp residence. I can measure ph and tds nothing else. what shall I do? I searched for many times founds lots of info but somehow confused and still have many doubts. So thanks in advance please share some knowledge of yours.
IMG_0027.JPG
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Witcher

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Hey @denizyendi can you list your tank parameters in line with this post?
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/please-read-the-guidelines-for-plant-help.60671/


8,4 but now I managed to drop and fix it to 7,5 using some vinegar first (obviously a bad decision since it caused bacterial bloom)
You've clearly added too much, I add 15ml/240l of spirit vinegar per day and had only 2 bacterial blooms over the year - both caused by larger (30ml /240l/day) doses. But vinegar won't keep your pH stable - it's a weak organic acid, quite useful for dosing carbon but not for stabilising pH.
 

sparkyweasel

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Yes, more details would be useful.
28 Celsius is rather warm, most tropical fish and plants do better at 22 or 24.
What kind of suckermouth? Some can cause problems.
Pine cones can release resin, the best cones are Alder, various Alnus species, a very different kind of tree and cone, which are very good for aquarium use.
Is the pH8.4 how it comes from your tap? Or does something in the tank raise it?
Nice rocks, you're lucky to have those locally. :)
 

Nick72

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Are you sure those rocks don't have an iron content? I'm no geologist but it looks a little like iron seams running through them?

If so, you could be getting iron poisoning.
 

denizyendi

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29 Jun 2020
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turkey
I found info about adding vinegar helps lowering ph which was obviously a false thing to do at least for high dosages. But now, I'm using phosphoric acid with very low dosing and letting the water wait for at least 4 days before adding. Unfortunately, my tap water is 8.4 ph and has high hardness. So I have a very big tank(1000l) containing rested tap water, take a bucket out of it, and then mix it with drinking water %50 and then add acid and rest it again :). I have a chart for all the water specifications that my plants and other livings require and it seems like 28 Celcius is the top edge for my tank, therefore my cooling fans run 24/7. Always suspected of my rocks since I was able to do only calcium test on those concluding I got nothing more about them. My plants are more important than aesthetic so I can remove them If a strong suggestion comes from you guys. Thanks a lot again
1. Size of tank. 120 l
2. Filtration. external 1000 l/h Racks: 1. seachem matrix 2. ista peat moss 3. bio rings and, wool between every layer
3. Lighting and duration. 3 hours cold white+red+blue power led and 5 hours 20W grow light
4. Substrate. on the base lava ground and on top 3-5 mm black sand (%100 natural no ph altering) a little jbl ball fertilizers between
5. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing. liquid carbon 0,5ml every day
6. Fertilizers used + Ratios. 0,5 ml nitrate, potassium, phosphate and, trace elements mixture and, iron 0,25l every day. It is reeflowers brand, six solution fertilizers.
7. Water change regime. 3 days %10
8. Plant list. Hygrophila polysperma, Rotala, Hemianthus micranthemoides, Heteranthera zosterifolia, christmass and java moss (I m not )
9. Inhabitants. 5 tetra, 12 cherry shrimps, bladder snails (I removed suckermouth from the tank since I have new baby shrimps)
10. Full tank shot.
IMG_0001.JPG
 

Witcher

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Does it means that all plants on the RH side are artificial ones? Your live plant mass is very low, I'd increase it by at least 5x, you can also safely dose 3-5ml of carbo daily.

Is that tank shot taken at full power of lights? It seems to be quite low light there.


Fertilizers used + Ratios. 0,5 ml nitrate, potassium, phosphate and, trace elements mixture and, iron 0,25l every day. It is reeflowers brand, six solution fertilizers.
Can you break down your ferts to ppm per week?
 

denizyendi

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29 Jun 2020
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turkey
yeah right, half is all artificial. I just wanted to be sure if I can take care of the plants before buying some more. Because it is my second trial as you can figure the first one was a disaster. But I will go buy some soon. the table contains all that I can calculate. no that's warm-up lights for morning and evening. The grow light quite sufficient let me take a photo of it tomorrow.
Fert TypeWeekly ppm
nitrate
2.275​
phosphate
0.175​
potassium
1.4​
iron
0.35​
 

ceg4048

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I found info about adding vinegar helps lowering ph which was obviously a false thing to do at least for high dosages. But now, I'm using phosphoric acid with very low dosing and letting the water wait for at least 4 days before adding. Unfortunately, my tap water is 8.4 ph and has high hardness. So I have a very big tank(1000l) containing rested tap water, take a bucket out of it, and then mix it with drinking water %50 and then add acid and rest it again :). I have a chart for all the water specifications that my plants and other livings require and it seems like 28 Celcius is the top edge for my tank, therefore my cooling fans run 24/7. Always suspected of my rocks since I was able to do only calcium test on those concluding I got nothing more about them. My plants are more important than aesthetic so I can remove them If a strong suggestion comes from you guys. Thanks a lot again
1. Size of tank. 120 l
2. Filtration. external 1000 l/h Racks: 1. seachem matrix 2. ista peat moss 3. bio rings and, wool between every layer
3. Lighting and duration. 3 hours cold white+red+blue power led and 5 hours 20W grow light
4. Substrate. on the base lava ground and on top 3-5 mm black sand (%100 natural no ph altering) a little jbl ball fertilizers between
5. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing. liquid carbon 0,5ml every day
6. Fertilizers used + Ratios. 0,5 ml nitrate, potassium, phosphate and, trace elements mixture and, iron 0,25l every day. It is reeflowers brand, six solution fertilizers.
7. Water change regime. 3 days %10
8. Plant list. Hygrophila polysperma, Rotala, Hemianthus micranthemoides, Heteranthera zosterifolia, christmass and java moss (I m not )
9. Inhabitants. 5 tetra, 12 cherry shrimps, bladder snails (I removed suckermouth from the tank since I have new baby shrimps)
10. Full tank shot.
Hello,
It really is a very bad idea to add acid to your tank. Phosphoric acid is a highly toxic material and will have long term ill effects on your fish. Fish do not really care about pH, but they DO care about WHY the pH is what it is. In this case they will ultimately care about the toxic acid being dumped into the aquarium. You should leave the pH alone and allow it to be.

Instead of changing a measly 10% of your water you should simply do a large (50% or greater) change once a week.

Cheers,
 

denizyendi

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Joined
29 Jun 2020
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4
Location
turkey
Hi,
I 've just gone for RO system and no more adding acid. I doubled the plant density and add more shrimps to my tank As you said I've started to make big changes per week. Ph seems to be OK. Moreover, it seems like plants grow rate increased. stargrass have a more vibrant color but hygrophila polysperma still have brownish wavey leaves. Hope they will recover fully soon. Thanks a lot!
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