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Plants That I Cannot Grow

mark4785

Member
Joined
4 Jan 2011
Messages
451
Location
Derbyshire, UK.
I have been involved in the hobby of planted aquariums for around 2 years now and throughout those years I have learned about the many aspects of the 'golden triangle' (i.e. light, macro-nutrients and micro-nutrients) and how light is the most crucial determinant to what kind of nutrient dosing regime a person utilizes. With my aquarium having a high-light specification, I learned that estimative index dosing was the best route to take since the high degree of light that the plants are exposed to may cause them to soak up an inordinate amount of macro/micro nutrients; thus these nutrients would need to be supplied 'excessively' in order to avoid the plants using it all up. In addition, I have also learned about the importance of co2 diffusion and flow, which is why I am using the high quality 'Super Atomizer' by 'Easy-Aqua' to produce a fine mist of co2 bubbles that are more mobile and responsive to the two power-heads that I have installed. With regards to flow, all filter/power-head output is facing the same direction to ensure water fully circulates around the aquarium.

So, as can be seen from above, what I have learned about keeping a planted aquarium is perhaps reaching the intermediary between that of a novice and expert planted-tank hobbyist. However, I still have many questions and incompetence's in that I am still struggling to successfully grow many of the available water plants provided by Tropica. To give you an idea of what I cannot grow at this stage, I have compiled a list below:

1. Vallisneria spiralis 'tiger'
2. Hygrophila polysperma
3. Elecocharis parvula
4. Hygrophila corymbosa siamensis
5. Limnophila sessiliflora (This grew very well prior to lowering my light levels for reasons of algae problems)
6. Bacopa monnieri (becomes weak, loses its bottom leaves)
7. Hemanthus callitricoides
8. Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
9. Micranthemum unbrosum
10. Bacopa australis

This is by no means an extensive list of plants that I have to throw away, and as such, does not constitute the £300-£500 worth of plants that I have had to trash over the years.

For obvious reasons I would like to get to the bottom of why the above plants do not grow, since the majority of them, with the exception of plant 7, are not temperamental. Below I have included my tank specifications in the hope that somebody who has been in this hobby much longer than me will be able to see where I am going wrong so that I can finally say to myself that I enjoy this hobby.

Planted Aquarium Specifications

Lighting: 2 x 24w 22 inch Hagen Power Glo Fluorescent tubes (located in the aquarium hood, approximately 65cm above the substrate level).

CO2: Yes; I use the Dennerle Comfort Range. A 500g co2 cylinder is hooked up to a 'Super Atomizer' manufactured by 'Easy-Aqua' (this Super Atomizer was installed on the 26th of June so its a new product which replaced a near useless diffuser which produced large bubbles that would zoom up to the water surface). This new diffuser is producing a fine mist of co2 that is reaching most plants. Two Power heads are distributing the mist across the aquarium, in addition to a small internal filter with a spray bar (spray bar is actually submerged).

Fertilizer: Yes (a Estimative index dosing regime is employed); approximately 7-8 ppm of potassium nitrate and phosphate are added Mon, Wed and Fri while the micro-nutrients from TPN are added on Tue and Thur. A water change is conducted on a sunday; prior to the water change the nitrate level is typically 50ppm and afterwards 35ppm (this is measured using an expensive Horiba manufactured Nitrate meter for accuracy). Phosphate levels are presumed to be equally high. One thing that I ought to note is that the plants do not use up even 1-2ppm of nitrate from day-to-day which strikes me has being quite odd in a high-light, nutrient-demanding set-up.

Tank Size/Capacity: 81.5cm length , width of 36cm and height of 52.5cm and holds 120 litres.

Miscellaneous

No algae growth.
The plants that do grow primarily come from the cryptocoryne species.
 
You forgot to add CO2 in to the triangle, lol. How big is the tank? With the plants you listed, how long have they been in the aquarium before you havent notice any growth?
 
logi-cat said:
You forgot to add CO2 in to the triangle, lol. How big is the tank? With the plants you listed, how long have they been in the aquarium before you havent notice any growth?

The literature I read which discussed this golden triangle didn't incorporate co2 into it, but I know co2 is equally as important as the factors of the golden triangle.

The tank has a length of 81.5cm, width of 36cm and height of 52.5cm and holds 120 litres. They would have been in the aquarium for around 4 weeks or more and would just wilt, break up and/or turn transparent/brown.
 
There are some super easy plants Hygrophila polysperma Limnophila sessiliflora. I think you have light issue if you dump enhough EI and Co2 and not enough light bottom leaves will melt as you described or bottom at the substrate plants will melt as well. For example HC cuba is best at 60-70PAR you will not get it at your height and 2x24W I think. Which tubes do you have Daylight or Grolux? Daylight gives approx 2-3x or more par than Grolux.

I can not grow anything on 35cm height with grolux tubes over 60cm long tank (those pink) they are too weak (30-40Par).Daylight on other side gives around 120 par at substrate which is too strong so I use combination of TMC led and grolux to get 70 par and all is OK now.

If you suffer algae on higher light then you do not dose enough Co2, you can add some easy carbo to existing co2 gas.
 
Hi,
i would suspect your c02. You stated your old system of a near useless glass diffusor which injected bubbles which immediately escaped the surface. If this is the case, then your new super atomizer should help dramatically. You have already noted an improvement in distribution now that the c02 mist has a chance to be moved around the tank by the powerheads. Do you use a drop checker to gain an idea of c02 levels within the aquarium? What is your photoperiod and water change routine?
Cheerio,
Ady.
 
Radik said:
There are some super easy plants Hygrophila polysperma Limnophila sessiliflora. I think you have light issue if you dump enhough EI and Co2 and not enough light bottom leaves will melt as you described or bottom at the substrate plants will melt as well. For example HC cuba is best at 60-70PAR you will not get it at your height and 2x24W I think. Which tubes do you have Daylight or Grolux? Daylight gives approx 2-3x or more par than Grolux.

I can not grow anything on 35cm height with grolux tubes over 60cm long tank (those pink) they are too weak (30-40Par).Daylight on other side gives around 120 par at substrate which is too strong so I use combination of TMC led and grolux to get 70 par and all is OK now.

If you suffer algae on higher light then you do not dose enough Co2, you can add some easy carbo to existing co2 gas.

I agree that those two are easy-to-grow plants, and the latter one grew into a monster prior to the introduction of the floating amazon frogbit plants which were intended to lower the light levels. As mentioned, this plant would not grow properly after amazon frogbit introduction.

I am using two of these as a light source: http://www.seapets.co.uk/products/aquar ... -22in.html .

I agree that low dosage of co2 or lack of even distribution of co2 is the reason for past algae growth. If I can get my water plants growing with the amazon frogbit (used as a safety net I suppose since algal and plant issues develop faster in more powerful light) and without algal issues, I will perhaps remove the frogbit and see what response I get.
 
Ady34 said:
Hi,
i would suspect your c02. You stated your old system of a near useless glass diffusor which injected bubbles which immediately escaped the surface. If this is the case, then your new super atomizer should help dramatically. You have already noted an improvement in distribution now that the c02 mist has a chance to be moved around the tank by the powerheads. Do you use a drop checker to gain an idea of c02 levels within the aquarium? What is your photoperiod and water change routine?
Cheerio,
Ady.

Yes, I use a glass drop-checker. The solution is a dark/light green and never a blue colour; I will expect the solution to be a constant light green with the new diffuser I've implemented just today.

My photoperiod is 5pm through to 12:00am (7 hours). A 50% water change is done every sunday followed by macro-nutrient dosing. Monday is a micro-nutrient day, Tue a macro-nutrient day and so forth.

As mentioned previously, I use potassium nitrate and phosphate powder and mix it with tap water to create 250ml liquid solutions. Should I be putting other macro nutrients into the mix or are those elements sufficient?
 
Hi all,
I can't grow any kind of Vallis, presumably because my rain-water is too soft for it.
I agree that those two are easy-to-grow plants, and the latter one grew into a monster prior to the introduction of the floating amazon frogbit plants which were intended to lower the light levels. As mentioned, this plant would not grow properly after amazon frogbit introduction.
I agree with Radik, this has to be a light issue.

cheers Darrel
 
mark4785 said:
As mentioned previously, I use potassium nitrate and phosphate powder and mix it with tap water to create 250ml liquid solutions. Should I be putting other macro nutrients into the mix or are those elements sufficient?

No Magnesium? Recent thread if you haven't seen it. viewtopic.php?f=11&t=22154

I would lean on the co2 side of the fence at this point. As others would say, trust your eyes. Dropchecker is a guide, I'm now running limey to yellow as I was having co2 related issues. All livestock fine.

My problem plant right now is Pogostemon Helferi. Thinking back, poor co2. Trying it emersed now. :thumbup:
 
I do not know those power glo tubes are they white or pink? I use tubes for 3GBP daylight 6500K White.
Really try not to use frogbit and add some easy carbo every 2nd day if you see some algae then increase co2 levels if you already doze EI you have to balance it in tank.

Spyder, pogo helferi is easy can grow without Co2 if low light
 
Radik said:
I do not know those power glo tubes are they white or pink? I use tubes for 3GBP daylight 6500K White.
Really try not to use frogbit and add some easy carbo every 2nd day if you see some algae then increase co2 levels if you already doze EI you have to balance it in tank.

Spyder, pogo helferi is easy can grow without Co2 if low light

They appear to be white.
 
Well I just thought I'd let everyone know that i've removed all of the Amazon Frogbit and plant growth has been superb over the last two months! Some Parvula grass has been growing well in the higher light conditions and I'm growing Sessilifloras again without problems.

A recent, unfortunate, problem with my co2 diffuser has mean't that all this good progress may be undone (see my post about this on the co2 forum). Unfortunately, my 'Super co2 atomiser' has broken and I'm in need of a fast replacement before plant growth goes to the fan (thankfully I have ordered a replacement).
 
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