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purigen and potassium permanganate

kobain72

New Member
Joined
13 Feb 2023
Messages
19
Location
France, le mans
Good morning,
can we use potassium permanganate at the same time as the purigen? because I don't want to damage the purigen or create a bad reaction.

THANKS
 
Since Seachem maintains secrecy on what Purigen actually is and how it works, hardly anyone can reply with much certainty.
I can only say that I've been repeatedly regenerating Purigen by hydrogen peroxide - another strong oxidizing agent - without harm. Still, if potassium permanganate gets reduced on Purigen's surface and forms manganese dioxide, well, you'll be in trouble to get it off!
 
Since Seachem maintains secrecy on what Purigen actually is and how it works, hardly anyone can reply with much certainty.
I can only say that I've been repeatedly regenerating Purigen by hydrogen peroxide - another strong oxidizing agent - without harm. Still, if potassium permanganate gets reduced on Purigen's surface and forms manganese dioxide, well, you'll be in trouble to get it off!
Thank you Maq,
I just put purigen to try to counter the cyanobacterium because I am invaded. And it destroys my plants one by one except the java fern and helanthium bolivianum
 
Thank you Maq,
I just put purigen to try to counter the cyanobacterium because I am invaded. And it destroys my plants one by one except the java fern and helanthium bolivianum
I don't see how purigen will resolve your BGA problem. In my exprience to combat BGA you have several venues. You can increase NO3, reduce temperature or go all the way with antibiotics. The later one is a last recourse. There are some commercial products like Chemiclean.

I am not sure what you wanted to do with potassium permanganate, but I would discourage you from using that in your tank.
 
I don't see how purigen will resolve your BGA problem. In my exprience to combat BGA you have several venues. You can increase NO3, reduce temperature or go all the way with antibiotics. The later one is a last recourse. There are some commercial products like Chemiclean.

I am not sure what you wanted to do with potassium permanganate, but I would discourage you from using that in your tank.
Good morning,
I had seen an article that potassium permanganate can suppress cyanobacteria. I put purigen because I have a lot of organic matter. by reducing organic matter should I reduce cyanobacteria?
THANKS
 
I had seen an article that potassium permanganate can suppress cyanobacteria.
It is possible that potassium permanganate will kill BGA although I doubt it will eradicated it entirely from the tank unless you dose heavily which would be a very bad idea in a planted/fish tank.

I put purigen because I have a lot of organic matter. by reducing organic matter should I reduce cyanobacteria?
You will reduce organics by being on top of your maintenance, such as changing water every week, lightly vaccum cleaning your substrate and also rinsing your filter media regularly (maybe every month). Potassium permanganate is a strong oxidiser and you will kill all your beneficial bacteria as well as potentially your fish, shrimps and anything in between depending how much you add. Also, your water will turn purple, then brown. Not a great idea. I know this is used in some fish ponds to treat certain parasites but I wouldn't recommend using potassium permanganate for the purpose of removing BGA.
 
@kobain72 , I agree with @Hanuman . Purigen, as well as any action aimed at decreasing dissolved organics in the water is a good thing, a.o. for preventing algae. But it's effect on cyanobacteria would be probably very meager.
Strong oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide is perhaps 'purer' than potassium permanganate) works very well when applied locally against small cyanobacterial colonies on sand. If cyanos already infested the whole tank, don't do that! I've tried (and perhaps many others). Before you erase cyanos, you make too much damage, essentially you destroy the tank.
More promising ways: Change the composition of your water substantially, esp. nitrogen and / or phosphorus. Also, you can vacuum as much cyano as possible and then cover your tank in complete darkness for three to four days. Then vacuum the rest.
These methods sometimes work. Truth is, cyanos are formidable enemies. Good luck!:thumbup:
 
@kobain72 , I agree with @Hanuman . Purigen, as well as any action aimed at decreasing dissolved organics in the water is a good thing, a.o. for preventing algae. But it's effect on cyanobacteria would be probably very meager.
Strong oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide is perhaps 'purer' than potassium permanganate) works very well when applied locally against small cyanobacterial colonies on sand. If cyanos already infested the whole tank, don't do that! I've tried (and perhaps many others). Before you erase cyanos, you make too much damage, essentially you destroy the tank.
More promising ways: Change the composition of your water substantially, esp. nitrogen and / or phosphorus. Also, you can vacuum as much cyano as possible and then cover your tank in complete darkness for three to four days. Then vacuum the rest.
These methods sometimes work. Truth is, cyanos are formidable enemies. Good luck!:thumbup:
I am at 10 ppm of no3 and 1 ppm of po4. I can go up to 25ppm of no3? I have in my possession calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate and potassium nitrate. despite water changes osmosis I have a GH of 15. I feel like the JBL manado buffers my GH.
THANKS
 
I am at 10 ppm of no3 and 1 ppm of po4. I can go up to 25ppm of no3? I have in my possession calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate and potassium nitrate. despite water changes osmosis I have a GH of 15. I feel like the JBL manado buffers my GH.
THANKS
Vaccum as much BGA as you can. Then you can start by increasing your NO3 up to 20ppm and PO4 up to 3ppm see what happens. If you can decrease the temperature of your tank do that as well. BGA thrives at higher temperatures. You can aim for 25-27C. Every year I have BGA episodes in my main tank that start during heat waves. I can avoid it.

despite water changes osmosis I have a GH of 15. I feel like the JBL manado buffers my GH.
Not sure I understand here. RO water should basically be deprived of any hardness. Are you remineralising your water? If not then something is leaching in your tank. Perhaps you have some stone like Seiryu stone? JBL Manao is a active substrate although I am not sure if decreases PH. I have no experience with that soil in particular, but if that soil buffers PH and you have Seiryu stone, you are basically exhausting the substrate buffering capacity very fast.

What's the reason your GH is high like that?
 
Vaccum as much BGA as you can. Then you can start by increasing your NO3 up to 20ppm and PO4 up to 3ppm see what happens. If you can decrease the temperature of your tank do that as well. BGA thrives at higher temperatures. You can aim for 25-27C. Every year I have BGA episodes in my main tank that start during heat waves. I can avoid it.


Not sure I understand here. RO water should basically be deprived of any hardness. Are you remineralising your water? If not then something is leaching in your tank. Perhaps you have some stone like Seiryu stone? JBL Manao is a active substrate although I am not sure if decreases PH. I have no experience with that soil in particular, but if that soil buffers PH and you have Seiryu stone, you are basically exhausting the substrate buffering capacity very fast.

What's the reason your GH is high like that?
I would like to lower it to 3 or 4 dGH but impossible, it does not drop. When I had filled my tank I had put the water from my well it is calcareous
 
Hi @kobain72,

how old is this tank?

Could you supply us with some more information about your tank, and a full tank photo.




BGA is normally associated with new immature tanks, instability, nutrient imbalance, lack of nutrient distribution, lack of microbial activity, too high a light intensity. But can also happen as @Hanuman points out due to a sudden spike in temperature (temperature induced instability). It can be hard to pin point exactly what the cause is. I don't think I ever had a brand new setup that didn't develop some BGA at the early stage... it would always eventually just go away though...

Strong oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide is perhaps 'purer' than potassium permanganate) works very well when applied locally against small cyanobacterial colonies on sand
In the past, I have treated small but very stubborn local colonies on top of the substrate by spraying tiny amounts of Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) using a syringe and that definitely kills the BGA. I would switch off filters and let the water calm down before I would apply the Peroxide, put a small bowl or something appropriate to cover the area to prevent lifestock from getting too exposed, and let it work for a minute or so before switching the filter back on, wait a little longer before removing the cover. I can only recommend this for spot treatment.

Cheers,
Michael
 
I don't think ever had a brand new tank that didn't develop some BGA at the early stage... it would always eventually just go away...
Interesting. I think I’ve had it only once in probably 20 years, and never in a new tank. This is what makes the hobby so interesting - so many variables to try to account for that provides So many different experiences.
 
Good morning,
my tank at 5 years old, I have been fighting against cyanobacteria for 2 years, I will put a photo when I get back from work

Icône de validation par la communauté
 
Like @hypnogogia I have also only seen BGA in old tanks (but not my own).
I associate it with old, stale tanks that have seemingly run empty on some factor, and then the BGA flourishes.
I second already suggested advice of making sure nutrients are good, increasing flow distribution in problem areas, and doing as much manual removal as possible.
BGA seems to be present in almost every tank, but only in some tanks does it find an opening to thrive where it becomes clearly visible.
 
Holy smokes! That’s a lot of BGA… The tank is totally off balance. I would seriously consider doing a hard reset - as in completely redoing itt from scratch or at least a super massive cleanup… In any event, I’ve never had to face this level of calamity so my advice may not be the greatest .

Like @hypnogogia I have also only seen BGA in old tanks (but not my own).
I associate it with old, stale tanks that have seemingly run empty on some factor, and then the BGA flourishes.
I agree. Well, you can certainly get BGA at any stage in a tanks life… I just never had to struggle with it in older tanks as much. In my plant less or near plant less cichlid tanks back in the old day I would always have a bit here and there on rocks and gravel.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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Good morning,

I cleaned the cyanobacteria by suction and I'm going to do a water change tomorrow. I'll keep you posted on the progress.
thank you for the help
 
I've learned through my somewhat large number of cyano explosions through my aquarium years that there is a silver lining to them.

In troubled tanks, where algae seems impossible to beat, they keep the tank looking bad and all that, eventually it may happen that the cyanos appear. They show up timidly, fighting for their space among all algae, and they eventually win and become this mess like what your pictures show. At this point, the desperate aquarist may fail to notice one important thing - the cyano killed all the other algae.

When faced with the decision to either throw the tank out through the window or using antibiotics, if the aquarist decides for the later he will notice that, after a few days, magically all the cyano is dead, but more than that, the tank is completely algae free, maybe for the first time in months. The plants shine with freedom. A beauty to behold.

Of course, in a troubled tank, eventually some kind of algae will return, but the morale has been lifted and the aquarist is ready to fight once again.
 
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